best solvent for cutting carvbon?

After a life time of trying ever different home made and everybody's favorite I tried a couple of different products. Now I use nothing else but. They work faster than anything else I have ever tried and works better than anything else I have ever used. First before I go for the copper, I take out the carbon, then I take out the cooper.

https://www.kgcoatings.com/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=18&page=1


I use KG-1 and KG-12, it removes the carbon and cooper faster with less work than anything I have ever used.

This was after years of using JB bore compound starting back in the early 1970"s.
 
Carbon

JB, the original blue label formula has served me well in removing the stubborn, tough to remove carbon fouling, as verified with my Hawkeye borescope.
 
Carb-Out

After a good while starting off with a couple patches soaked with Carb-Out followed by a good brushing with the same after every 30-40 round match, I noticed I was still getting a carbon buildup. So now I’ve limited Carb-Out to just the first couple patches to clean out the loose stuff. Then follow that with a patch and brushing of 40X Bore Cleaner (the old Rem Bore Cleaner developed by one of the PPC inventors). That gets followed by an Accelerator and Patch-Out soaking for the ride home. Once home it‘s Accelerator and the foam Wipe-Out if needed. Of course there are some dry patches used between the different cleaners.

I’ve found it easier and more consistent to use 40X for carbon after every match than going through the longer scrubbing with Iosso every 100 or so rounds routine that I was doing before my failed Carb-Out experiment.

Bill Slattery
 
What kind of brush did you use with the Carb Out? I found that using a nylon brush (as specified on the label) was ineffective. I got better results using a bronze brush after a thorough wetting of the bore, and a 20 minute soak. I also wet the brush. I think that the soak time is important. If I had simply followed the directions, I would have thought the product ineffective. With the change in brush type, it worked.

A friend, that has a bore scope, found that when he cleaned with Wipe-Out, that he could still see some carbon, after dry patching, but that if he would wet the bore and a bronze brush with Butches, and give it just a few strokes, it came out. I think that although the Wipe-Out did not loosen the carbon enough for it to be patched out, that it did loosen its grip on the bore to the point that it was easy work for the brush to remove it. I should mention that the Wipe-Out was left in over night.
 
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Boyd

I use the blue nylon Iosso brushes. Was wondering if bronze and a soaking would have worked better. But I find it convenient, especially time wise, to do it this way.
 
best solvent for cutting carbon

Slick 2000 that's what Its
made for Soak the area.
It takes the carbon right off. I use it on my m1A gas plug and it was clean after a short soak. Just get the area wet and soak it. then clean with some dry patches Then solvent and patches later.
 
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2 patches wet with witches brew down the barrel -- scrub the barrel with a JB patch ---2 patches wet with witches brew and 2 dry patches and I'm done --takes about 4 to 6 minutes--a lot less than chemicals that have to sit in the barrel 5 minutes to 15 minutes and then have to be dry patched out repeatedly....often the whoile process has to be repeated


I do have to add that a friend was using KG1 and KG 12 today and let me try them. Worked quite well I thought. I don't have much trouble with copper in the barrel I was shooting today, though.
 
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GM Top Engine Cleaner

I have a can of the "old" GM carbon cleaner, but am not sure what method to use.

For those that use it, how are you doing it?

Running a soaking patch and letting it set? If so, how long?
Running a number of wet patches?
Using it with a bronze brush?

Thanks in advance,

:confused:
George
 
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