20 Tac
I've been shootin this caliber for 10yrs now, and basically it comes down to what the heck you want to shoot.
The 20 Tac and 20 Practical are so close to the same its funny. Listen guys, there is no better one than the other here. Either way at some point in time, you had to purchase dies; I read what "Armed in Utah" said about he just had to purchase bushings, and I agree that was the cheapest route and the best move for him since he already had PURCHASED(probably) the bushing die. But I think we all know that no matter what you decide on, your gonna be buying dies, unless you go the 204R route.
Now making 20 Tac---you don't!!! buy the Dakota/Lapua brass (yea a little more than 204R brass, but it will last to 15+ rounds). When you get the brass in hand, just throw a primer in it, powder it, and seat bullet and shoot away.
Then u can either run the brass in a bushing die or FL, whichever you prefer.
Making 20 Tac brass out of any other .223 brass---all u need is to buy a Redding 20 Tac form die and you are good to go all the days end. Doing this with .223 Lapua brass can result in some wrinkled casses, however they iron out upon firing and forming. I've used Winchester and IMI SS109 and IMI Match brass with the form die without any problems and still shooting this stuff.
My thought on the 204 Ruger is that, if u handload to the warm side, I don't see why you couldn't almost touch 3950fps with 40's in 12twist/ 26" barrel.
I can easily reach 3950fps using 40's in 12twist/ 28" Pac-Nor in 20tac
load is 24.6 RL-10x.
H-4198 gave good groups, but the velocity wasn't quite there, however the pressure was though.
Hope this clears some things up, and check out
www.saubier.com lots of smiall caliber talk there and I post alot there too.
later-tim b.