Bedding procedure ?

T

TrxR

New member
Ok im putting together a 30br with a Bordem BRM in a wood stock and im thinking of doing a pillar bed job with Devcon and glueing it as well.

My question is what needs to be done to the bedding job before glueing?

Can i simply do the pillar bed job , let it set than add a thin layer of jb weld to glue it in ?

Is there a different glue i should use? Should i rough up the bedding a little before applying the glue?

Thanks
 
TrxR said:
Ok im putting together a 30br with a Bordem BRM in a wood stock and im thinking of doing a pillar bed job with Devcon and glueing it as well.

My question is what needs to be done to the bedding job before glueing?

Can i simply do the pillar bed job , let it set than add a thin layer of jb weld to glue it in ?

Is there a different glue i should use? Should i rough up the bedding a little before applying the glue?

Thanks
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If the action fits the stock reasonably well, I just glue it in, making sure that the action does fit straight in the stock's bedding area. If the stock was made for something else, like a Panda, then it is probably best to do a bed to insure the action is straight in the stock. I have done this more than once.

I see Devon for bedding, if I glue it, JB Weld. It has a great adhesive factor.
 
jackie schmidt said:
If the action fits the stock reasonably well, I just glue it in, making sure that the action does fit straight in the stock's bedding area. If the stock was made for something else, like a Panda, then it is probably best to do a bed to insure the action is straight in the stock. I have done this more than once.

I see Devon for bedding, if I glue it, JB Weld. It has a great adhesive factor.
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What jb weld product do you use? How thick of a layer of jb weld is needed?

Any reason not to bed with devcon then glue jb weld?
 
TrxR said:
What jb weld product do you use? How thick of a layer of jb weld is needed?

Any reason not to bed with devcon then glue jb weld?
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Yes T-Rex that is the accepted procedure.... after scraping the Devcon for good adhesion
 
TrxR said:
Do you rough up the action in any way as well?
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Many do..... and some people will soak the action in MEK for a couple days. I like to use acetone. I wash the action with HOT soapy water then rinse it under HOT ( my home taps run at 160F) water..... some will boil it. And soak it over nite in acetone
 
Mram10 said:
TrxR,
If gluing in, why would you want to do a two step process? Thx
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If there is Considerable space between the action and the inlet of the stock, then it is easier to bed it first. You might be dealing with a lot of runoff, it can get kinda sloppy. If you bed it first, you can easily clean it up with a Dremel Tool to remove any run off where you didn't want it.

Then, clean it all up real good and glue the action into place.

If the action , say a regular 1 3/8 diameter fits the inlet with few gaps, just glue it in.
 
I came across a post somewhere where the smith would tape un the action with masking tape or electrical tape then apply the release agent to the tape when doing the initial bedding. The reason he stated was to keep the release agent off the action and the tape left enough room for the thin layer of glue.

Would that be a feasible option?

Also im assuming you do all of this with the complete barreled action and not just the action alone?
 
TrxR said:
Do you rough up the action in any way as well?
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I bead blast the lower half of the action, masking off the upper half to the stock line and any holes the would allow the blasting material to enter the action interior.

After blasting I wipe it down with lacquer/epoxy thinner removing all dust.

Blasting not only cleans and roughs the action I read somewhere that blasting increases the surface area substantially.

It's worked well for me.
 
TrxR said:
I came across a post somewhere where the smith would tape un the action with masking tape or electrical tape then apply the release agent to the tape when doing the initial bedding. The reason he stated was to keep the release agent off the action and the tape left enough room for the thin layer of glue.

Would that be a feasible option?

Also im assuming you do all of this with the complete barreled action and not just the action alone?
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Just my opinion but I think that''s 'wayyy too much glue.

Plus, it''s often hoovis to glue the action in alone in which case you need contact points at both screws and fore and aft on the sides.
 
Just another opinion. I bed the action first with a barrel in place. Then remove the action from the stock and take the barrel off. I’ll rough up the bedding with a dremel cut off wheel to remove the skin from the bedding and give teeth for the JB Weld. I then degrease the action with acetone and blast the bottom of the action with 120 grit aluminum oxide. Mix up the JB Weld (24 hour set type, not five minute) and apply it to the bedding area of the stock and also to the bottom of the action. Then I place the action in the stock and press it into the stock with a 3 ton arbor press. Not that it takes 3 tons to press it in. I use just enough pressure to bottom out the action in the bedding. I’ll hold pressure on the handle until the JB quits oozing out between the action and the stock. Clean up the excess epoxy making sure to remove all the JB Weld from the trigger hanger area and any screw holes in the stock. I also have a hole under the stock that goes to the screw that holds the bolt release in place. I’ll clean any JB out of that hole as well. Then let the JB Weld set up overnight with no pressure on the action except for gravity holding it in place. Also make sure that there is no JB Weld that gets into the receiver threads or receiver face. The holding strength of JB isn’t in the thickness of the epoxy bond. Epoxy has its most strength with a thin bond. Kelly Ellis recently removed a Farley out of a stock that I had glued in for him to use the action on his rail gun. He had a heck of a time getting the action out of the stock. But was finally able to get it out with an iron and a soldering iron applying heat to the tang of the action.
 
Whats the best method of keeping the JB weld out of the action screw holds and out of the pillars if doing a pillar bed and glue?
 
Mike Bryant said:
Just another opinion. I bed the action first with a barrel in place. Then remove the action from the stock and take the barrel off. I’ll rough up the bedding with a dremel cut off wheel to remove the skin from the bedding and give teeth for the JB Weld. I then degrease the action with acetone and blast the bottom of the action with 120 grit aluminum oxide. Mix up the JB Weld (24 hour set type, not five minute) and apply it to the bedding area of the stock and also to the bottom of the action. Then I place the action in the stock and press it into the stock with a 3 ton arbor press. Not that it takes 3 tons to press it in. I use just enough pressure to bottom out the action in the bedding. I’ll hold pressure on the handle until the JB quits oozing out between the action and the stock. Clean up the excess epoxy making sure to remove all the JB Weld from the trigger hanger area and any screw holes in the stock. I also have a hole under the stock that goes to the screw that holds the bolt release in place. I’ll clean any JB out of that hole as well. Then let the JB Weld set up overnight with no pressure on the action except for gravity holding it in place. Also make sure that there is no JB Weld that gets into the receiver threads or receiver face. The holding strength of JB isn’t in the thickness of the epoxy bond. Epoxy has its most strength with a thin bond. Kelly Ellis recently removed a Farley out of a stock that I had glued in for him to use the action on his rail gun. He had a heck of a time getting the action out of the stock. But was finally able to get it out with an iron and a soldering iron applying heat to the tang of the action.
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This is good advice. For real, not some innernet hack's delusional maunderings and unfounded guesses
 
TrxR said:
Ok im putting together a 30br with a Bordem BRM in a wood stock and im thinking of doing a pillar bed job with Devcon and glueing it as well.

My question is what needs to be done to the bedding job before glueing?

Can i simply do the pillar bed job , let it set than add a thin layer of jb weld to glue it in ?

Is there a different glue i should use? Should i rough up the bedding a little before applying the glue?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Another way to skin the cat. Pre bed using saranwrap,release agent not nessesary,wipe down pre bed with lacquer thinner,bead blast and degrease receiver and glue in right away. This leaves about .005 thickness of adhesive. Aluminum and steel start to oxidize almost immediately so don't wait for a couple of days to glue. A while back I sold a fellow a ten and a half pound XP100 ppc. glue in. He wanted me to make a 300 win. short mag.out of it. I was going to screw it togather but he didn't want to spend the money. I warned him of the consequences. I had installed a stud in back guard screw so if it ever or when it does come loose it should stay in the stock.I know the man well enough not to be concerned about liability! Any way 6 years later it's still holding!
 
Tim Oltersdorf said:
All right this does it. If I get any more insults like this heads are gonna roll. Tim
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Ok, Ok, okayokayokayyyy....... just put down the cleaver and back away from the churn there Big Guy.... maybe a liddle more ice in that next one eh?? Or mebbeso some pineapple juice or some fresh berries and some nice kale?? Some soy milch and greens maybe?....Cleanse those t-t-toxxinss and get that clear outlook back..........shhhh sshhh....


tiptoes back under his rock..... "maybe the blender will run out of gas" ....
 
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