barrel thread?

ok, I stand corrected, but I will ask the guy that has done my bluing, because the chamber and bore does not get blued. Or I'm losing my mind, which is also a possibility.... I'll ask how he does it.

A lot of the other coating looks like crap...in black at least, my opinion...

I have seen a factory remington 700 barrel, older one, with a blued stainless barrel, steel receiver not sure what stainless is was.

Or am I screwed up again. Don't hold back.......

Peter,

That sounded like I was being a smartass, I need to proofread more, or not write write posts when I'm jetlagged etc.

On another note....I figured you might know about some of the new high tech industrial coating processes that could be applied.

The other practicality, is that black radiates infra red energy more efficiently that lighter colors, hence black anodizing of air cooled engines, etc, not that I'm making barrels for a mg-42

it's really more about looks for some people I'm doing machine work for.

Ben



Ben
 
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Don

There are two ways to fix a BAT when it galls. Brute force which makes things worse Or saw the barrel shank off, put the action in the lathe and very carefully bore the barrel shank out. When you get to the right place the barrel threads will pull out like a slinky toy. These galled after final fitting of the threads. I was checking the headspace or the cone when it happened. I sent them back to BAT and he took a clean up pass on the threads and knocked the high spots off and everything was fine. He recommends Jet Lube 550 for lube. I've had no problems since I switched lube.

Dave
 
Bnhpr said:
ok, I stand corrected, but I will ask the guy that has done my bluing, because the chamber and bore does not get blued. Or I'm losing my mind, which is also a possibility.... I'll ask how he does it.

A lot of the other coating looks like crap...in black at least, my opinion...

I have seen a factory remington 700 barrel, older one, with a blued stainless barrel, steel receiver not sure what stainless is was.

Or am I screwed up again. Don't hold back.......

Peter,

That sounded like I was being a smartass, I need to proofread more, or not write write posts when I'm jetlagged etc.

On another note....I figured you might know about some of the new high tech industrial coating processes that could be applied.

The other practicality, is that black radiates infra red energy more efficiently that lighter colors, hence black anodizing of air cooled engines, etc, not that I'm making barrels for a mg-42

it's really more about looks for some people I'm doing machine work for.

Ben



Ben
Click to expand...

There is an outfit in WI that has done blueing (actually stainless black oxide) for me. Do a search on Google for "UNICO of Milwaukee". They just did a really nice job on a factory Winchester swift barrel.

Another option would be to get it roguarded by Robar Industries in Phoenix.
 
Peter

I do a couple of things here in the shop for hunting rifles. I use either a dry film lubricant or electoroless nickel with boron nitride on bolts. I use Cerakote on the rest of the metal work. It has ceramic particles in it and comes in many colors and is tuff as hell. I don't like doing anything internally to stainless barrels.

Dave
 
Threads

When I first started doing my own barrels, I sort of got ate up on the "tighter must be better" thing. But since then, I have learned better.
One problem many craftsmen have is they really do not have a clue as to just how much clearance they are really giving a thread. And by clearance, I mean clearance on the pitch diameter. Aside from asthetics, the major diameter is of no consequence.
I did this to one of my Farleys. When I first got the action, I threaded a barrel tenon out of a piece of 660 bronze, which will not gall in the action threads. I fit it as close to "zero" into the action as I could. By that, I mean where it would just screw in with no apparrent shake. I then measured the thread with my wires, and took them down another .002 on the "V". That felt just perfect.
That is the thread dimension I use for that action now, that allows the barrel to shake about 3/16 inch on the muzzle just before it makes up against the shoulder. The barrels screw in nice and smooth, with no catches, and I have never galled one in that action.
I have another action, the same brand, that is almost .005 smaller on the pitch diameter than the action I just discribed. The barrels from it feel really loose whan screwed into the first one. But, I have used a barrel from that one in the first, (I also had to re-headspace it), and it shot as good as any. So, in my opinion, a little on the loose side doesn't hurt accuracy one bit.
What ever you do, if you are screwing a barrel, (especially a Stainless), into an action, and you feel a "catch", stop, and gently back it out. Under no circumstances keep going, because things will get ugly very quick.
As for Remington barrels, I have never seen one gall. I have had some that were so gosh awfull tight that it took a big effort to get it loose, (I have one of those big Brownell Action Slugging Wrenches and action vice for that). I have also seen them so loose that I didn't even have to hit the wrench.
Incidentally, I do not care for lay down full profile inserts. I machine the OD to the correct size, and thread with a standard TiN insert, using wires (which I hate) or the little thread triangles, (which I love), to arrive at the correct size for the action I am using......jackie
 
jackie schmidt said:
When I first started doing my own barrels, I sort of got ate up on the "tighter must be better" thing. But since then, I have learned better.
One problem many craftsmen have is they really do not have a clue as to just how much clearance they are really giving a thread. And by clearance, I mean clearance on the pitch diameter. Aside from asthetics, the major diameter is of no consequence.
I did this to one of my Farleys. When I first got the action, I threaded a barrel tenon out of a piece of 660 bronze, which will not gall in the action threads. I fit it as close to "zero" into the action as I could. By that, I mean where it would just screw in with no apparrent shake. I then measured the thread with my wires, and took them down another .002 on the "V". That felt just perfect.
That is the thread dimension I use for that action now, that allows the barrel to shake about 3/16 inch on the muzzle just before it makes up against the shoulder. The barrels screw in nice and smooth, with no catches, and I have never galled one in that action.
I have another action, the same brand, that is almost .005 smaller on the pitch diameter than the action I just discribed. The barrels from it feel really loose whan screwed into the first one. But, I have used a barrel from that one in the first, (I also had to re-headspace it), and it shot as good as any. So, in my opinion, a little on the loose side doesn't hurt accuracy one bit.
What ever you do, if you are screwing a barrel, (especially a Stainless), into an action, and you feel a "catch", stop, and gently back it out. Under no circumstances keep going, because things will get ugly very quick.
As for Remington barrels, I have never seen one gall. I have had some that were so gosh awfull tight that it took a big effort to get it loose, (I have one of those big Brownell Action Slugging Wrenches and action vice for that). I have also seen them so loose that I didn't even have to hit the wrench.
Incidentally, I do not care for lay down full profile inserts. I machine the OD to the correct size, and thread with a standard TiN insert, using wires (which I hate) or the little thread triangles, (which I love), to arrive at the correct size for the action I am using......jackie
Click to expand...

Thanks Jackie, you experience is appreciated, do you ever use a thread micrometer, or do you think a feel, and take another cut is best with barrel threads?

Ben
 
Ben

I do not use a "thread micrometer" per say, but a regular 1-2 Micrometer with either thread wires, or triangles. I prefer the triangles, beacuse once you learn to use them, they are just as accurate as wires.
Either will allow you to hit the pitch diameter within .0005........jackie
 
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Facts and figures

Bnhpr said:
ok, Peter,

That sounded like I was being a smartass, I need to proofread more, or not write write posts when I'm jetlagged etc.

it's really more about looks for some people I'm doing machine work for.

Ben



Ben
Click to expand...
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Ben you or anybody else for that matter never need to worry about me being upset. You all can be yourself and type whatever, it never upsets me.

About special coatings? I have no idea whatsoever. I don't shoot in competitions and for what I shoot an accuracy better than .75-1"/100M is good enough. However, I've lapped three barrels that now shoot .3-.4"/100M and now I've found that to see a 1" group is quiet annoying.

About a thread micrometer? I always use a micrometer. I can deppend on a micrometer, but I can't deppend on my feel.

Remember, I'm always facts and figures.

Shoot better
Peter
 
I have a 0-1 tpm, but I need to get a 1-2 or triangles for my home shop, because although probably alarmist, I have this fear of sendind a barrel downrange.
 
Jackie

We probably end up with just about the same fit. Once a barrel will just screw on with no resistance and no slop I take one more pass, that being .0025"-.003" on the compound and that gets the fit I want. I don't want it any tighter than that and looser doesn't hurt.

I used to use wires but I picked up a cheap 1-2 thread mic some years ago. I couldn't tell you where my wire set is now if my life depended on it. Get a cheap mic. It makes life a lot easier. Cheap works fine, we're just duplicating a number. Our own number at that so I'm always right.

Ben

I have never heard of a barrel going down range unless the action was in several pieces. I have a Howa here that the receiver ring is in 3 pieces. The barrel made it about 20' down range. The guy walked away. Everyone else at the range ran away.


Dave
 
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"Incidentally, I do not care for lay down full profile inserts."

Jackie,
Please expand on your experience with these inserts; I greatly value your opinion and experience. If I'm all balled up here and about to walk on my wanker I don't want to put my cork boots on and proceed. I've tried various products, these seemed to be really slick although they are expensive and individual inserts are required for each pitch. I went with “laydown” style over the “on edge” because the tool holders were smaller, more especially the internal one. Or is the problem the whole "full profile" thing?

The 30 year apprentice,
Nic.
 
Jackie and Dave...

I think I end up with the same fit as well and I don't use wires or triangles... probably because I never worked as a machinist and had to use that procedure.

I thread until it is close to pointing up, try the action... thread another thou or so depending on the feel... try the action... ending up a 1/2 thou feed on the compound until it threads nicely... I'll lightly polish the threads with 320 grit to break any burrs... I know you can't do this with a glued in action, My vast majority of barreling does not involve them.
 
I have a thread mic and wires. I have one of Stiller's inserts from a Viper that I use to check threads on barrels that fit his receiver. I have a Panda insert that I use on barrels that I put on Kelbly's receivers to check. The Panda is similar to the Bat and has worked as a checker on the ones that I have and done for others. All others, I use the thread Mic.
Butch
 
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