Barrel heat max

F

fishbone

Guest
I had this posted incorrectly under rimfire and revived no replies. Or, maybe it is a dumb question.

I have fire forming and load testing in front of me.
In past testing I get impatient and the barrel can get pretty warm.
What pacing guide do you use to keep the heat in check, such as number of rounds in string and rest/cool time between strings; or some other format?
I don't want to harm a new barrel (30BR).
 
Not a dumb question. Get a turkey baster -- or battery filler-upper -- and a bucket of water. Fancy is where they mate, more or less, with your bore guide that has an o-ring to seal the chamber. Nothing like flushing the barrel with water to cool her down...
 
Charles E said:
Not a dumb question. Get a turkey baster -- or battery filler-upper -- and a bucket of water. Fancy is where they mate, more or less, with your bore guide that has an o-ring to seal the chamber. Nothing like flushing the barrel with water to cool her down...
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If you want to take it one step further, go to Advance Auto or O'Riley's or NAPA and buy a cheap, 12v, windshield washer pump. You can run recirculated COLD water down the barrel with a bucket and a bit of plastic tubing
 
I just set up the flags and the timer and treat it like Im shooting a match. 5 shots in 2 minutes is plenty of time to keep it cool, get some practice over the flags, and test some loads.
 
sbindy said:
I just set up the flags and the timer and treat it like Im shooting a match. 5 shots in 2 minutes is plenty of time to keep it cool, get some practice over the flags, and test some loads.
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Yeah ... but don't forget the minimum 30 minutes before your next relay, at least, in the NBRSA rules...
 
David Halblom said:
If you want to take it one step further, go to Advance Auto or O'Riley's or NAPA and buy a cheap, 12v, windshield washer pump. You can run recirculated COLD water down the barrel with a bucket and a bit of plastic tubing
Click to expand...

Or even further, use Kerosene instead of water. If I remember rightly, Jerry Hensler use to clean his barrel with a recirculating kerosene system. Jerry doesn't post much, but when he does, it pays to listen. Worst that can happen is you'll learn something just about every time he posts.
 
In the 100 plus degree temperatures we have been having here lately in the East the amount of shooting you can accomplish without letting your your barrel cool is greatly diminished. And time to cool down is greatly increased.
 
I would suggest you dry your barrel before shooting. Had a couple of customers who shot a match in the rain. The water drops in their barrels did not compress and left dents in their barrels. It ruined their barrels. I suggest folks cool their barrels with a blast of compressed nitrogen gas. It displace mositure and is extremely cold when discharged from being under pressure.
Nat Lambeth
 
"Barrel Cooler"

This is a CO2 system,I believe the original designer was a company called "Summer Breeze". I've had it 13 years now. The 10lb tank will cool two rifles the entire weekend, in 100 degree Texas heat. A 5lb tank tank will do one rifle.

The CO2 regulator is a must have addition. You probably wont make it through the weekend without the regulator. The tubing is some kind of freeze resistant material. A machinist could probably design something similar to this device. It works flawlessly. No water or other liuquid coolant to clean up. A CO2 refill cost me $18.00 at a Welding supply shop.



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Glenn
 
I have been told that if you keep a small towel in a cooler with ice water, that simply draping the wet towel on a hot barrel greatly speeds cooling. This is probably best done with synthetic stocks.
 
I have a full bottle of nitrous on the shelf left over from my racing days. I often thought about turning an old bore guide into a nozzle and shooting a blast of that down the barrel just to drop the temps down real fast. Not enough to freeze it, but a quick blast or two. I believe its -140 degrees as it instantly converts from liquid to gas.
 
Charles E said:
Not a dumb question. Get a turkey baster -- or battery filler-upper -- and a bucket of water. Fancy is where they mate, more or less, with your bore guide that has an o-ring to seal the chamber. Nothing like flushing the barrel with water to cool her down...
Click to expand...


Tried this technique. Didn't like the fact that water would occasiionally get in the trigger assembly when the bore guide is removed.


Glenn
 
Grizzly TT said:
What are you setting the regulator to ?
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Somewhere around 5 PSI on my gauge,on the flow side. If I want a fast cool down,I crank it up a little. Too much flow and the bore guide will just pop out of the chamber and act like a high pressure water hose nozzle. Let the gas flow in the barrel too long and ice will form on the outside. I usually shut the process down when the barrel is a little less than warm.(From Touch)


Glenn
 
Markhor said:
Wouldn't rapid cooling creat micro cracks?

Ed
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Never heard of this happening with CO2. I don't really know the details of how its done but Cryogenic treatment is a lot colder than CO2. Does it cause Micro Cracks? Just asking.


Glenn
 
Rusty how is that possible. Im not questioning your honesty or integrity but I thought the bullet would have to push the water out ahead of it?
 
Vern:
I don't know all the hows and whys. The shooters were shooting 308s FTR in a driving rain. FTR does not allow shooting under a cover, and they only stop if there is lighting. The barrels were either heavy Palma or straight 1.250" tubes from reputable manufactures. The dents were visable with a bore scope. The rifles began shooting fliers and having extreme spreads over 60 fps with loads that had been producing single digit extreme spreads.
That is about all I can tell you.
Nat Lambeth
 
In the past I have used an old bilge pump and Wintergreen rubbing alcohol. This will cool a hot barrel within 10 seconds and smells great!!!!
 
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