Bandsaw blades

[Hal]

Al

I have not had my saw very long and haven't used it all that much yet.

It came with two blades, the spare blade is a used blade. I have never sharpened a band saw blade, maybe I'll have to give it a try.

Do you sharpen your blades? I thought most people run the blades until they were use up than put on a new band saw blade.

Hal

 

[alinwa]

Al

I have not had my saw very long and haven't used it all that much yet.

It came with two blades, the spare blade is a used blade. I have never sharpened a band saw blade, maybe I'll have to give it a try.

Do you sharpen your blades? I thought most people run the blades until they were use up than put on a new band saw blade.

Hal

I'm sorry........I thought you meant the huge circular saw for precisely lopping metal. A friend of mine has a 1200mm (about 50" diameter) one which has a HSS blade and it cuts for years between sharpenings, if he's careful.

No, I've never used a bandsaw big enough to sharpen. I hear about it from my sawmilling buddies but haven't seen it.

I'm not sure why I thought an Ellis was a circlesaw

lol

al

 

[TRA]

I'm sorry........I thought you meant the huge circular saw for precisely lopping metal. A friend of mine has a 1200mm (about 50" diameter) one which has a HSS blade and it cuts for years between sharpenings, if he's careful.

No, I've never used a bandsaw big enough to sharpen. I hear about it from my sawmilling buddies but haven't seen it.

I'm not sure why I thought an Ellis was a circlesaw

lol

al

Those are better known as a "Cold Saw" Almost any high alloy, pre heat treated steel will make a real mess of those circular saw blades.

FWIW, band saw blades are not worth resharpening. That would be for blades used in the real world. I'm sure there is someone who knows of a bandsaw blade being resharpened, but almost of them go into the scrap barrel.

If you are going to use high quality HSS variable pitch blades, buy them made to size, from the manufacturer or a distributor who will stand behind their work, as if they are not properly joined and welded they will most assuredly fail in the joint.

The band blades get much cheaper if you buy the vendors minimum order.

 

[blades]

IRA- not true if the proper down feed , rpm , coolant, proper tooth spacing, and configuration- they cut more on the order of a milling function. Blades can run from D2 steel to carbide, diamond, or ceramic tipped Cold saw units are capable of very precise cuts unlike an bandsaw which wavers a bit. I am not talking about the quick and dirty chop saw types which by your comment is what you are familiar with. Which are more of a friction saw than anything else. Note: I am a sharpening shop as well as a small machine shop as such maybe I have just a bit better insight. Most all of the previous comments regarding band saws are spot on- particularly the diddling with guides to get a 90deg cut. The small 4.5x6 import units are especially prone to being out of wack in that area but that doesn't exclude the 7.5x12 units either. As with any machine tool mass is your friend, some of these are pretty lite in that department. Any thing you can do to remove heat at the cutting area is a plus even simply rigging a compressed air feed at that point would be of benefit. 2 types of basic carbon steel bandsaw blades Hard edge Flexback- good to about 500 degs. or Hard edge Hardback good to about 700 degs. these are the least expensive types. There are several different types of BI-metal blades, the most basic is M-2. Course every MFG has there own names for items so you need to read the description of the base material to see what you are buying- won't even get into the various tooth configurations gets to be like buying tires for your car or truck, but yes to another comment about 3-4 teeth in the cut- looking at the smallest cross section of the material to be cut of course. Almost forgot in BI -Metal bandsaw blades 14tpi is about the finest offered now days. Chris

 

[TRA]

IRA- not true if the proper down feed , rpm , coolant, proper tooth spacing, and configuration- they cut more on the order of a milling function. Blades can run from D2 steel to carbide, diamond, or ceramic tipped Cold saw units are capable of very precise cuts unlike an bandsaw which wavers a bit. I am not talking about the quick and dirty chop saw types which by your comment is what you are familiar with. Which are more of a friction saw than anything else. Note: I am a sharpening shop as well as a small machine shop as such maybe I have just a bit better insight. Most all of the previous comments regarding band saws are spot on- particularly the diddling with guides to get a 90deg cut. The small 4.5x6 import units are especially prone to being out of wack in that area but that doesn't exclude the 7.5x12 units either. As with any machine tool mass is your friend, some of these are pretty lite in that department. Any thing you can do to remove heat at the cutting area is a plus even simply rigging a compressed air feed at that point would be of benefit. 2 types of basic carbon steel bandsaw blades Hard edge Flexback- good to about 500 degs. or Hard edge Hardback good to about 700 degs. these are the least expensive types. There are several different types of BI-metal blades, the most basic is M-2. Course every MFG has there own names for items so you need to read the description of the base material to see what you are buying- won't even get into the various tooth configurations gets to be like buying tires for your car or truck, but yes to another comment about 3-4 teeth in the cut- looking at the smallest cross section of the material to be cut of course. Almost forgot in BI -Metal bandsaw blades 14tpi is about the finest offered now days. Chris

Blades....please read the post that alinwa made where he mentioned the cold saw, with HSS blades. Then re-read what my comments were, and think what qualified the crack about what I said as not being true.

BTW, My Haberle saws are hardly friction saws. Nor are they quick and dirty.