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Anyone use the roller bearing on their 2 lug BAT bolt?
- Thread starter DSM
- Start date
M
mks
Guest
To answer the question on whether you want slightly more fall with a little cocking on close or slightly less to have a slight firing pin forward movement on fall, I have seen that they seem to shoot better with a slight cocking on close.
Joe,
You can add another data point to your findings. Although match conditions were horrible today, I would estimate that changing the hanger as you suggested decreased the number of unexplained vertical flyers by a factor of 5.
Thanks again!
Keith
Fergus Bailey
New member
Hi Fergus (we met at Hawks Ridge, long ago...)
Well, you could get a hanger without any holes for the trigger, then drill your own. Would take a mill to get the accuracy, of course. A DRO makes it real easy, though.
Hi Charles
Yes I sure remember meeting you - was back in September 2000!
I think I will try something with hangers for other models. If BAT does make hangers for some model Bs, but not others, I dont know what actually makes them different. I will talk to a couple of the gunsmiths here about what they might have seen in the past and see what I can find out. Hopefully I can get something to work.
Fergus Bailey
New member
Didnt mean for it to be a snark, but i do have and use adjustable trigger hangers on my bat b's I can even show you if need be. Lee
Lee, I dont doubt what you say.
I took what BAT told me as a blanket statement, when apparently the hangers are available for some modle Bs, but not others. Kind of hard to keep up with, but I guess it makes sense to someone at BAT.
Fergus Bailey
New member
Hi Hovis
I tried a hanger from my DS on my B. The hanger fits in place, but the holes to mount the hanger on the action are in the wrong place and so do not quite line up with the screw holes on my action. I then contacted BAT, gave them the serial numbers of my model Bs, and asked if there is an adjustable hanger available for that action. I was advised by BAT that there is not.
There seems to be a large array of similar, but different hangers across the different BAT models, with many having adjustable hangers, but some not (like certain model Bs and Ms) which makes it difficult to know what does or doesn’t have an adjustable hanger vs a model that only has a nonadjustable hanger. Hence I think I am stuck discussing the issue with various gunsmiths to see if anyone has already found an answer, or else becoming a Jewel connoisseur like Joe described earlier in this thread.
I tried a hanger from my DS on my B. The hanger fits in place, but the holes to mount the hanger on the action are in the wrong place and so do not quite line up with the screw holes on my action. I then contacted BAT, gave them the serial numbers of my model Bs, and asked if there is an adjustable hanger available for that action. I was advised by BAT that there is not.
There seems to be a large array of similar, but different hangers across the different BAT models, with many having adjustable hangers, but some not (like certain model Bs and Ms) which makes it difficult to know what does or doesn’t have an adjustable hanger vs a model that only has a nonadjustable hanger. Hence I think I am stuck discussing the issue with various gunsmiths to see if anyone has already found an answer, or else becoming a Jewel connoisseur like Joe described earlier in this thread.
Fergus,
Your much better informed than I assumed so please except my apologizes. Sometimes you have knock me on top of the head.
I know BAT has made a lot of slight differences in their actions upon request. That is great in one way but can really be confusing in situations like this.
I'll try and remember to compare the hangers I have and see if there is any difference. Learn something new everyday.
Hovis
Your much better informed than I assumed so please except my apologizes. Sometimes you have knock me on top of the head.
I know BAT has made a lot of slight differences in their actions upon request. That is great in one way but can really be confusing in situations like this.
I'll try and remember to compare the hangers I have and see if there is any difference. Learn something new everyday.
Hovis
I suppose I'm like most Americans & think of Australia as smaller than it is. But I've seen the results of some things "Tony Z" has made, and I'd think a trigger hanger for your action, even an adjustable one, falls within his skill set. Don't think he's a professional gunsmith, but ... somewhere on the east coast...I know, that's still a big place.
As a PostScript, I was rooting through some old stuff the other day & found a couple emails from Alan Peake I'd printed out. Still miss him...
As a PostScript, I was rooting through some old stuff the other day & found a couple emails from Alan Peake I'd printed out. Still miss him...
There are three ways to adjust the firing pin fall...
1) Change the hanger if your action has a set of adjustable hangers,
2) Go on a trigger-hunting mission, or
3) Loosen the screw on the firing pin retainer and move it to the point where the fall works.
For my actions where I didn't have the hanger set, I have used the trigger-hunting method. It gets it close without having to reset the firing pin retainer. Method number three is hit or miss, time-consuming, you have to reset the retainer under the pressure of the firing pin spring, and you may have to do it several times until you find the exact place wher your gun shoots; but it will get you there eventually.
I, personally, have trouble putting things such as firing pins and triggers back together when there are parts that are under spring-tension included in the process. In my basement shop area before I ever move out of my house, I am going to run a large magnet under every shelve and in every corner. I can envision retreiving several Jewell trigger springs, a number of ejector buttons and related springs, various 1911 parts and other assorted small metal objects that have escaped while I've tried to put things back together. In fact, I have resorted to using a large clear plastic bag to take Jewell triggers apart in over the last few years.
1) Change the hanger if your action has a set of adjustable hangers,
2) Go on a trigger-hunting mission, or
3) Loosen the screw on the firing pin retainer and move it to the point where the fall works.
For my actions where I didn't have the hanger set, I have used the trigger-hunting method. It gets it close without having to reset the firing pin retainer. Method number three is hit or miss, time-consuming, you have to reset the retainer under the pressure of the firing pin spring, and you may have to do it several times until you find the exact place wher your gun shoots; but it will get you there eventually.
I, personally, have trouble putting things such as firing pins and triggers back together when there are parts that are under spring-tension included in the process. In my basement shop area before I ever move out of my house, I am going to run a large magnet under every shelve and in every corner. I can envision retreiving several Jewell trigger springs, a number of ejector buttons and related springs, various 1911 parts and other assorted small metal objects that have escaped while I've tried to put things back together. In fact, I have resorted to using a large clear plastic bag to take Jewell triggers apart in over the last few years.
1) Change the hanger if your action has a set of adjustable hangers,
2) Go on a trigger-hunting mission, or
3) Loosen the screw on the firing pin retainer and move it to the point where the fall works.
For my actions where I didn't have the hanger set, I have used the trigger-hunting method. It gets it close without having to reset the firing pin retainer. Method number three is hit or miss, time-consuming, you have to reset the retainer under the pressure of the firing pin spring, and you may have to do it several times until you find the exact place wher your gun shoots; but it will get you there eventually.
I, personally, have trouble putting things such as firing pins and triggers back together when there are parts that are under spring-tension included in the process. In my basement shop area before I ever move out of my house, I am going to run a large magnet under every shelve and in every corner. I can envision retreiving several Jewell trigger springs, a number of ejector buttons and related springs, various 1911 parts and other assorted small metal objects that have escaped while I've tried to put things back together. In fact, I have resorted to using a large clear plastic bag to take Jewell triggers apart in over the last few years.
LOL!
I'm on my third gunsmithing workroom and my 5th reloading area and I FINALLY have one that works! It's cluttered, always full, but it's smooth concrete floor w/rugs where wanted, tight base moulding and ROLLAROUNDS!!! All of the work surfaces are either sealed tight to the floor, fully open underneath or rollarounds. I ain't GOT no spidey holes....
love it!
al
Fergus Bailey
New member
As a PostScript, I was rooting through some old stuff the other day & found a couple emails from Alan Peake I'd printed out. Still miss him...
Peaki never suffered fools (gladly or otherwise) but he was a great guy, a great thinker, very insightful, and a great contributor to benchrest. It was a great shock when he became ill, and he left us much too early.
Fergus Bailey
New member
1) Change the hanger if your action has a set of adjustable hangers,
2) Go on a trigger-hunting mission, or
3) Loosen the screw on the firing pin retainer and move it to the point where the fall works.
I am thinking I might have to play around with option 3. It seems a bit more hit or miss than the other options, but 1 seems to be out, and we dont have a big pool of jewels here to experiment much with option 2.
J
JohnVm
Guest
I have adjusted firing pin fall by the #3 method and it is a limited adjustment. It is my belief that you can set the firing pin back to far and have the cocking piece rest in the bottom of the cam groove. This is not good as the pin is supposed to stop on the firing pin stop or step inside the bolt. Also you would be shortening the firing pin protrusion if the firing pin is not allowed to seat.
M
mks
Guest
I have adjusted firing pin fall by the #3 method and it is a limited adjustment. It is my belief that you can set the firing pin back to far and have the cocking piece rest in the bottom of the cam groove. This is not good as the pin is supposed to stop on the firing pin stop or step inside the bolt. Also you would be shortening the firing pin protrusion if the firing pin is not allowed to seat.
Right. And you don't want the cocking piece glancing off the ramp as it falls, if you don't have bolt exactly fully closed. You want some slop in the system so bolt closing isn't that critical. There is a method #4, and that is to make your own sear that catches the cocking piece at the right distance.
Keith