Another way to chamber?

Interesting stuff Butch, I am not qualified enough to comment on all that is shown. However I can positively say that his barrel removal technique is realy bad. The action wrench is set up all wrong on the action ring and may mar the surface . The wrench is made wrong also. There is no way this wrench setup would remove a tight barrel and not mangle the edge of the scope dovetails on the action ring if it slipped. My bull meter is in the red.
The only thing that I see going on is he is using a rubber flex collet to hold the barrel and a floating reamer holder that I have never heard off before.
However the reamer holder seems to float on a rubber pad like an engine mount. Correct me if I am wrong on that.
Would be good if you disected and explained what we are looking at.
 
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I'm not really qualified to comment but -- the action wrench is BAD looking and I'd change that. I wonder about his turning the shank true to the bore and then chucking on it. Seems perfectly fine for a regular rifle but not as precise as the typical BR methods we see here that allow the bore to be indicated precisely. But then keep in mind that he's not working on BR stuff.
 
The Jacobs flex collets are fine, but not BR quality. I asked him what he supported the outboard end of the barrel with and he said he used nothing but the collet. They have a grip range of about 1 1/2".
Butch
 
Butch Lambert said:
The Jacobs flex collets are fine, but not BR quality. I asked him what he supported the outboard end of the barrel with and he said he used nothing but the collet. They have a grip range of about 1 1/2".
Butch
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I agree,that whole set up scares me,it is interesting but i'll stay with centers and steady rest.
 
K Battenbough said:
Im baffled as to how he can dial in the muzzle end, when there is no spider, etc. :confused:
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He doesn't dial in the muzzle when chambering. He re-cuts the breach OD of the barrel essentially on centers the same as you would for the typical steadyrest method but then chucks the barrel by the breach to finish the job. The muzzle will be running somewhat true but who knows how close with that chuck or if there is any whip at the muzzle end being unsupported. I have seen this same setup and method but the chuck was a 6 jaw set-tru with a spider on the outboard end used only for suport and not for alignment. It seems to me that this setup would give you the same product of a barrel chambered in a steady (good or bad depending on your opinion of the steady method) but maybe less accurate than a steady depending on the chuck used.
 
Gentleman, would you believe and agree, that Mr. Technika has absolutely no idea what he's doing.

Gentleman, can you possibly believe, that Mr. Technika is not alone as there're thousands more gunsmith just like him.

Gentleman, would you believe, that only Mr. Technika is absolutely convinced that his action and bolt are absolutely true.

Con
 
Thats excellent explanations . I guess it all hinges on how accurate the flex collet centers. However you cant change it if it dont.
I would be concerned about all that mass of barrel just whipping around in the spindle also.
Maybe a light short barrel would be less of a worry but would the collet be able to fully and rigidly control a big heavy long blank .
I can't afford rubber flex collets anyway so it is all academic really.
 
Myles Hollister Chambering

Myles used one of the Jacobs spin chucks and the rubber flex collets to chamber barrels--seemed to be successful for him
 
Butch

I am qualified to comment on the accuracy of the set-up, and for Benchrest Work, where we strive for tolerances to the "nearest tenth", I can see "stacked tolerances" all in that entire procedure.

Fine for the civilian world, but not for Benchrest.........jackie
 
I totally agree with you. I think he has some really nice tools, but needs a lesson in chambering. I'm sure he would welcome it.
Butch
 
Hi

Interesting to see that my discusion is all here.

First, I am not into benchresting, and never will be.
That is not my game, however I try to make to job as good as I can anyway.
I have in the past been a full time gunsmith, but work today with inventions and special solutions instead and just make rebarrelworks as a hobby thing.

When it comes to the wrench, I agree it looks like this, but works ok.
There is nothing that touches the sight dovetails so they can not get hurt, I have yet not had a problem with damaged surface either, so it's really not a problem.
I however use other wrenches for other actions.

When it comes to the jacobs chuck and this is also true for te rest of the workshop, regarding the comments on the fact that they are expensive.
I paid 200 USD for mine, second hand, and everything is bought second hand to avoid loan and mortgage.

But if we look at the setup...
When the chuck is turned by hand and the barrel is running very true in the lathe, then everything is good.
When starting to machine it I use maybe betwen 50 RPM and up to 1000 depending on the tooling currently used, at those higher speeds it's possible that the muzzle will move a little bit out of the center. ( But I havent been able to see it yet)
If it does, doesent matter as the chamber will be in line with the non turning bore. (At least I have never seen a barrel where the barrel is turning while you are shooting......)

If I on the other hand had a chuck in the muzzle as well end and was able to fix both end then I would be able to get a 0,00001 tolerance on my indication, but with a forced barrel that was placed in the lathe with a high tension. And what good would it be if the barrel is forced in a weird way in the lathe?

What I feel is important that is that the chamber is centered and in line with the bore.

Technika
 
Butch Lambert said:
J. Valentine,
My Uncle Bill has a couple used Jacobs Rubber Flex setups. Might not be as bad as you think.
Butch
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Thanks for the offer Butch , I do appreciate it but I have other things I am saving for that are more important at the moment.
I don't do enough to make that kind of setup worth while .
Anyway I like the indicating and messing about to get a barrel straight in the headstock. I like the spider and I use a rubber o-ring over the barrel in the chuck . Can't remember whos idea it was but I read about it in precision shooter some years back and tried it out and it worked good.
So I will stay with that method as time is not a factor.
I wish I had an Uncle Bill.
 
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Can anyone shed some light on the floating reamer holder that he is using ?
 
www.technika.nu said:
Hi

Interesting to see that my discusion is all here.

First, I am not into benchresting, and never will be.
That is not my game, however I try to make to job as good as I can anyway.
I have in the past been a full time gunsmith, but work today with inventions and special solutions instead and just make rebarrelworks as a hobby thing.

When it comes to the wrench, I agree it looks like this, but works ok.
There is nothing that touches the sight dovetails so they can not get hurt, I have yet not had a problem with damaged surface either, so it's really not a problem.
I however use other wrenches for other actions.

When it comes to the jacobs chuck and this is also true for te rest of the workshop, regarding the comments on the fact that they are expensive.
I paid 200 USD for mine, second hand, and everything is bought second hand to avoid loan and mortgage.

But if we look at the setup...
When the chuck is turned by hand and the barrel is running very true in the lathe, then everything is good.
When starting to machine it I use maybe betwen 50 RPM and up to 1000 depending on the tooling currently used, at those higher speeds it's possible that the muzzle will move a little bit out of the center. ( But I havent been able to see it yet)
If it does, doesent matter as the chamber will be in line with the non turning bore. (At least I have never seen a barrel where the barrel is turning while you are shooting......)

If I on the other hand had a chuck in the muzzle as well end and was able to fix both end then I would be able to get a 0,00001 tolerance on my indication, but with a forced barrel that was placed in the lathe with a high tension. And what good would it be if the barrel is forced in a weird way in the lathe?

What I feel is important that is that the chamber is centered and in line with the bore.

Technika
Click to expand...

Thanks for comming in on the thread , I would like to know a bit more about your floating reamer holder please.
As far as your picture of your action wrench on a Sako action goes , I would not use it that way at all , but to each his own.
I can't comment on any of the other things as I have had no experience with rubber flex collets . I will leave that to others more experienced.
We are discussing your thread not condeming it so please don't be offended , If anyone thought it was of no value it would not get any discussion at all.
 
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Hi

I am not offended, but we have a language problem that some times can be difficult to understand.
As my first language not is English, we do here have a totally different way of saying things. So sometimes when I write something I can perhaps looks like I am angry, but I am probably not I have just wrote something in the wrong way.

My floating chamber holder is a Swedish Granlund and it is totally different from the junk sold by Clymer for example.
The one that I am using is springloaded and I can adjust the tension, so the reamer are "wanting" to be centered but there is a springloaded play.
This stiffness is great and is probably making less problems like chattering etc.

Technika
 
Butch Lambert said:
I totally agree with you. I think he has some really nice tools, but needs a lesson in chambering. I'm sure he would welcome it.
Butch
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Mr. Butch Lambert in your own words please explain to us, will this chambering lesson be done with loose reamer pilot or without a reamer pilot?

Con
 
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