Am I all wet here?

I would be concerned removing a factory Rem 700 barrel using a rear entry wrench, it does not matter what barrel vise is used the torque required is the same so a rear entry wrench runs the risk of twisting the receiver.
 
A good friend, who does barreling work, tells me that he has a slick way to remove stubborn Remington factory barrels, He sets the barreled action up through the headstock, and uses a parting tool to split the recoil lug edgewise. He tells me that it is easy to do, and works very well. Another smith that I know, uses an action wrench that wraps around the front receiver ring, with a bolt into the front action screw hole, that is held in a large, well mounted vise. The barrel is removed with a wrench that has inserts for different profiles, and a long, sturdy handle.
http://item.brownells.com/brands/br...tion-wrench-head-remington-788-heads-only.htm
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ories/barrel-vises/barrel-vise-prod41623.aspx
 
I have had one of the big Brownell wrench/vice setups for years, and it rarely fails to remove any barrel.

I have see Remington's that were so darned tight I had to use a hammer on the wrench, ( it's designed to do that), and others that just came loose with hardly any effort at all.

This is the only style rear entry wrench I would use on a Rem 700.
http://benchrest.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=18160&stc=1&d=1470762168
http://benchrest.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=18161&stc=1&d=1470762249
 

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I use a parting tool to cut a relief in the barrel and then use a rear entry wrench and this has worked great on the minimal number of 700's and Howa 1500's that I have done. I have no use for the factory barrels so I don't mind cutting the relief.
 
I know how to get off a tight barrel, my point is why in the heck would anyone want a barrel vise just for removing barrels? An he claims it works because the recoil lug is captured by the vise which supposedly makes it easier to remove the barrel. And, out of aluminum yet.
 
Gents,

I've never been unable to get a 700 barrel off, especially after I learned to liberally apply acetone to the surfaces to be grabbed on to, ensuring that they are bone-effing'-dry. This helps tremendously with preventing slippage. Follow this with rosin and some cardboard shims, and usually there is not a problem. Some, though, you have to lean on a little.

I could see where the vise in question would work as advertised. I don't think it's going to hurt anything. Bending the ever-loving-snot out of that aluminum might be a concern, though.

Justin
 
wadebrown said:
I would be concerned removing a factory Rem 700 barrel using a rear entry wrench, it does not matter what barrel vise is used the torque required is the same so a rear entry wrench runs the risk of twisting the receiver.
Click to expand...


Why? My rear entry wrenches extend to the front ring. I don't use them anymore as I have the Brownell's type wrench, but they will work if used properly.
 
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