6 jaw set-tru chuck Why doesn't Butch use it?

adamsgt

adamsgt

Jerry Adams
Butch, you never responded as to why you had no use for your 6 jaw set-tru chuck. Inquiring minds want to know.
 
I ain't Butch

Never been Butch altho I did stay at Holiday Inn once't

But I know why I don't use a 6-jaw for barreling, because I cannot picture any way not to put my barrels in a bind. 6-jaws want to hold things in their version of parallel.......it's what they DO
 
alinwa said:
I ain't Butch

Never been Butch altho I did stay at Holiday Inn once't

But I know why I don't use a 6-jaw for barreling, because I cannot picture any way not to put my barrels in a bind. 6-jaws want to hold things in their version of parallel.......it's what they DO
Click to expand...

How do you hold a barrel without putting it into a bind? A 6 jaw set-tru with a copper ring seems to allow a barrel to gimble as good or better than most other methods I've tried.
 
Depending on the application the 6 jaw is better than a 4 or 3, or a two. 6 jaw chucks are really beneficial when you are holding thin wall parts. The jaw pressure is about half of what a 3 jaw needs to hold the work stable. If the work is thin enough a 6 saw as likely to upset thin work pieces as bad as any jaw chuck. Contrary to popular belief jaw chucks are not as accurate as most claim and every time a different piece is clamped into the chuck, it's adjustable true feature becomes very suspect. One other downside to a 6 +++ jaw chuck is the scroll will fill up with chips and they need totally disassembled and totally cleaned. Often. A 3 jaw collects chips bad enough, the more jaws the worse is gets
 
Too heavy to install. I use a cathead on either side of the headstock and it doesn't put the barrel in a bind. My headstock is too long to use the 6 jaw for chambering.
Hopefully that answers your question Sgt.
 
TRA said:
Depending on the application the 6 jaw is better than a 4 or 3, or a two. 6 jaw chucks are really beneficial when you are holding thin wall parts. The jaw pressure is about half of what a 3 jaw needs to hold the work stable. If the work is thin enough a 6 saw as likely to upset thin work pieces as bad as any jaw chuck. Contrary to popular belief jaw chucks are not as accurate as most claim and every time a different piece is clamped into the chuck, it's adjustable true feature becomes very suspect. One other downside to a 6 +++ jaw chuck is the scroll will fill up with chips and they need totally disassembled and totally cleaned. Often. A 3 jaw collects chips bad enough, the more jaws the worse is gets
Click to expand...

attachment.jpg this is what I did to use the six jaw as a three jaw.
at the time I was using pie jaws pretty often so it solved a few problems.
 
Rubicon Prec. said:
How do you hold a barrel without putting it into a bind? A 6 jaw set-tru with a copper ring seems to allow a barrel to gimble as good or better than most other methods I've tried.
Click to expand...

I bring my 2 points into alignment (throat and pivot point) under very light finger pressure, checking by moving the outside setup to make sure that it's swiveling at the ring...then with indicators in place I tighten up the pivot, this normally requires a little jacking. Once the pivot indicates well I run up into the throat to see if it's also been brought back into line. Most time it has but if it doesn't indicate perfectly with the pivot point I loosen up and reset.

I basically ignore the muzzle and the rear of the tenon, sometimes videoing the muzzle if it's really flopping, and most time indicating the rear end on the way out just to see.....

Trying to jack in a 3 or 6-jaw is like trying to drop a tincan onto a post, it only goes on one way, and it's hard to hit.
 
Butch Lambert said:
Too heavy to install. I use a cathead on either side of the headstock and it doesn't put the barrel in a bind. My headstock is too long to use the 6 jaw for chambering.
Hopefully that answers your question Sgt.
Click to expand...

Thanks Butch, I hadn't thought about the weight of the chuck. One lesson learned today, good start.
 
alinwa said:
I bring my 2 points into alignment (throat and pivot point) under very light finger pressure, checking by moving the outside setup to make sure that it's swiveling at the ring...then with indicators in place I tighten up the pivot, this normally requires a little jacking. Once the pivot indicates well I run up into the throat to see if it's also been brought back into line. Most time it has but if it doesn't indicate perfectly with the pivot point I loosen up and reset.

I basically ignore the muzzle and the rear of the tenon, sometimes videoing the muzzle if it's really flopping, and most time indicating the rear end on the way out just to see.....

Trying to jack in a 3 or 6-jaw is like trying to drop a tincan onto a post, it only goes on one way, and it's hard to hit.
Click to expand...

We are talking about set-tru style chucks, not a standard scroll.
 
I have a Tru-Adjust 6 jaw for regular work and a 4 jaw Tru-Adjust for octagon barrels. No way I'd want to go back to standard chucks. I can align a bore in about 20 seconds with either of these chucks. Thick copper rings are used to not bind the barrel and a spider on the outboard side.

Belleville washers are used on the bolts holding the chucks to the back plate. Half turn losers them and a tiny lead hammer taps the chuck into alignment. It's a beautiful thing!
 
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