Which do you like best for chambering ?
Pro's vs. cons
Brands? I can get a great deal on BTC chucks...http://www.btcchuck.com/
Pro's vs. cons
Brands? I can get a great deal on BTC chucks...http://www.btcchuck.com/
3 jaw set tru vs 4 jaw independant...
- Thread starter eddief
- Start date
Wayne Shaw
Active member
A set true chuck adjusts the same as a 4 jaw. There are those that like the set trues because the jaws grip the barrel evenly, where a 4 jaw can be "loaded" uneven.
With practice, a 4 jaw can do anything just as good as any set true chuck, for barrel work.
With practice, a 4 jaw can do anything just as good as any set true chuck, for barrel work.
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Overall a 4-jaw is probably the best choice since you have 4 places to grip the barrel. It is easy to distort a barrel with a lathe chuck and the more places you can put a light grip on it and spread out the holding pressure the better.
In either instance use something like pre-1982 copper pennies between the jaws and the barrel surface. Here again, you are spreading the chucking pressure over a wider area.
In either instance use something like pre-1982 copper pennies between the jaws and the barrel surface. Here again, you are spreading the chucking pressure over a wider area.
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Brodie
Guest
What happened to pennies after 1982?
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Jan
Guest
Less Copper content,
..........therefore they are less mailable.
..........therefore they are less mailable.
jackie schmidt
New member
Chucks
Since I own fair size Machine Shop, I have the choice of 4-Jaw independent, 3-Jaw Standard, or a 3 or 6 jaw Set True.
I like the three jaw set true for barrel work. It is convienient, easy to work with, and vitually impossible to put deflection in the work piece.
As for the pennies, I think they stopped making them out of pure copper sometime around then. I think they now use what we used to call "pot metal".
The reason is at times, a Copper penny scrap can be worth more than a penny, depending on the market........jackie
Since I own fair size Machine Shop, I have the choice of 4-Jaw independent, 3-Jaw Standard, or a 3 or 6 jaw Set True.
I like the three jaw set true for barrel work. It is convienient, easy to work with, and vitually impossible to put deflection in the work piece.
As for the pennies, I think they stopped making them out of pure copper sometime around then. I think they now use what we used to call "pot metal".
The reason is at times, a Copper penny scrap can be worth more than a penny, depending on the market........jackie
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NesikaChad
Guest
C16 collets are another viable option.
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
The whole country went to 'ell in a handbasket!!
Actually, pre 1982 pennies were solid copper. 1982 pennies were mixed. Post 1982 pennies were made from some crap the ChiComs sent us when we borrowed money from them. Same crap they put in the dog food we got and the same crap that is in a $29.95 DVD/VCR player you get at Wally World.
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Joel
Guest
I prefer a 3 or 6 jaw Set True type myself. When I use soft jaws I use the 3 jaw (Pratt Burnerd). If I am not using the soft jaws I use the 6 jaw (older Buck).
For brands I like the older Buck chucks best. I just purchased a new Buck chuck and to me it looks and inspects like a Bison. The scroll is off at different diameters. I am not impressed with my new Buck chuck. My older Buck chucks are stamped made in USA. This new doesn’t state where it is made. I am guessing it is an import with the Buck name only.
If had to do it over again I would have purchased a Kitagawa or Pratt Burnerd. I have a couple of newer Pratt Burnerd’s that are very nice and I have heard good things about the Kitagawa’s.
If you use it only for chambering and you are using a spider on the muzzle and copper wire or similar on the chamber end it really doesn’t make a difference. For some other methods of chambering chuck accuracy is more critical.
Joel
For brands I like the older Buck chucks best. I just purchased a new Buck chuck and to me it looks and inspects like a Bison. The scroll is off at different diameters. I am not impressed with my new Buck chuck. My older Buck chucks are stamped made in USA. This new doesn’t state where it is made. I am guessing it is an import with the Buck name only.
If had to do it over again I would have purchased a Kitagawa or Pratt Burnerd. I have a couple of newer Pratt Burnerd’s that are very nice and I have heard good things about the Kitagawa’s.
If you use it only for chambering and you are using a spider on the muzzle and copper wire or similar on the chamber end it really doesn’t make a difference. For some other methods of chambering chuck accuracy is more critical.
Joel
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sbindy
Steve B
I prefer the 4 Jaw chuck. A 3 jaw that is good enough to do chamber work with costs $2000. I can buy alot of reamers for that kind of money.
If you are getting a 3 Jaw to save time, forget it. You still have to use the adjustments on the chuck to get a barrel blank down to .0001, and even the best 3 jaw will take alot of work to get it under .0005. The problem with the one I use at work is that even if you can get it under .0005, when you tighten the locking screws in the face of the chuck to hold its position, it moves the chuck! It ends up being slower!
Lathes come with a 4 Jaw, and even one of questionable quality can get a barrel indicated "dead nuts" since the jaws are independent. I use a piece of 1/16th brass or aluminum between the barrel and jaws to prevent marring the surface.
If you are getting a 3 Jaw to save time, forget it. You still have to use the adjustments on the chuck to get a barrel blank down to .0001, and even the best 3 jaw will take alot of work to get it under .0005. The problem with the one I use at work is that even if you can get it under .0005, when you tighten the locking screws in the face of the chuck to hold its position, it moves the chuck! It ends up being slower!
Lathes come with a 4 Jaw, and even one of questionable quality can get a barrel indicated "dead nuts" since the jaws are independent. I use a piece of 1/16th brass or aluminum between the barrel and jaws to prevent marring the surface.
Gents,
I have a Bison 6 jaw Set Thru, and a 4 jaw...never had the 4 jaw on when working on a barrel. Granted, the 4 jaw can do whatever is needed barrel wise that the 6 jaw can do, but to me, the 6 jaw is much easier and quicker to adjust. Don't regret the purchase at all and will be buying another for my new lathe.
FYI...when I'm adjusting the 6 jaw in, I do not loosen the locking bolts on the face of the chuck. You can move the chuck via the adjusting screws with them tight. You don't have the range of movement as if they were loose, but there is enough to dial in a barrel to Zip Point Sh!t.
Justin
I have a Bison 6 jaw Set Thru, and a 4 jaw...never had the 4 jaw on when working on a barrel. Granted, the 4 jaw can do whatever is needed barrel wise that the 6 jaw can do, but to me, the 6 jaw is much easier and quicker to adjust. Don't regret the purchase at all and will be buying another for my new lathe.
FYI...when I'm adjusting the 6 jaw in, I do not loosen the locking bolts on the face of the chuck. You can move the chuck via the adjusting screws with them tight. You don't have the range of movement as if they were loose, but there is enough to dial in a barrel to Zip Point Sh!t.
Justin
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mike in co
Guest
what you meant to say , was on your lathe , with your chuck and your skills, you could not save time, nor get under 1/2 thou.....
cause i have an expesive 13x40 with a knockoff buck chuck, and i have been able to dial in to 2-3 tenthou..as in spliting increments.
i find the buck quick to dial in.
just a novice in the chambering world
mike in co
MilGunsmith
Member
I use a 6 jaw Set-Tru or a 4 jaw at work. The 4 jaw is usally on the work lathe most of the time anyway to keep the "Engineers" from using the lathe.
Beware, the engineers may replace your lathe with a cnc machine, where you'll have to be able to count pass your number of fingers to use it.
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bluechip
Guest
6 jaw vs 4 jaw
Even though a six jaw adjustable is probably good for gun work, I've found that the holding power of a four jaw is far superior. On a six jaw, heavy drilling will push the workpiece back in the chuck. Larger tapping will cause the part to rotate in the chuck. Although I've got a couple six jaw set-tru's that are fine most of the time, the four jaw is still king.
Even though a six jaw adjustable is probably good for gun work, I've found that the holding power of a four jaw is far superior. On a six jaw, heavy drilling will push the workpiece back in the chuck. Larger tapping will cause the part to rotate in the chuck. Although I've got a couple six jaw set-tru's that are fine most of the time, the four jaw is still king.
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mike in co
Guest
ya just need to cut lighter/slower.....tapping..tapping ona the chamber of a br rifle ????
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bluechip
Guest
Whoa!
I never said I tapped a rifle barrel! Gun work is less than 1% of my machine work. Universal chucks for light to medium duty,four jaw for real holding.
I never said I tapped a rifle barrel! Gun work is less than 1% of my machine work. Universal chucks for light to medium duty,four jaw for real holding.