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This is a cool tool. I'd be afraid though that it might remove too much material and the cut-surface may still have to be lapped.

Brownells sells this brass beveling lap - https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/barrel-tools/muzzle-lapping-tools/45-brass-lap-sku080624045-679-2853.aspx However, I do not like that it does not have a pilot. I am thinking of making my own where it would work in conjunction with a...

Hi Jackie- Thanks for the reply. Might there be a piloted beveling tool that you can recommend? Thanks again- HiWall

Hi- I produced a a flat 90 degree crown on a rifle barrel sometime ago and I left the bore-to-crown area sharp, no bevel. Now I see that I have some small dings on this sharp edge and I'd like to know if there is a method that I can use to produce a small bevel without putting this barrel back...

I shoot a black-powder cartridge rifle, Highwall, in 40-65, in the sport of BPCR Silhouette and I cut a straight crown on my barrel. No bevel even at the bore, same as some 1,000 yd bench-rest shooters use (I also chambered and threaded using their methods). Rifle is very accurate. I am careful...

Thank you Pete and Jerry for the kind words! It's mostly trial and error, with the error unreported! -HiWall

Here's my floating reamer holder/pusher and reamer stop set-up. I made the reamer stop out of some brass tubing fittings. I use the gauge shown to measure the depth of the case rim cut. I purposely set the reamer stop to cut the rim depth shallow, make a measurement, and then turn the reamer...

My highwall is based on an MVA action and is in 40-65.

I just noticed that this part is sold in pack of 10 only. Not sure if the TS3 Mitsubishi MIT 108737 part is the same part which is $2.14 and sold as QTY 1. Would anyone know if this screw would fit the Circle Co. FCBI-250-4-5R boring bar? Thanks!

I think the part number at Carbide Depot is: TS-3 or Tool-Flo TF 9HTS3 - 2-56 x 1/8"

My lathe is a SB Heavy 10". I therefore am limited in my highest speed.

I purchased a Circle Machine Co. boring bar FCBI-250-4-5R and I'd like to know if there are any HSS inserts that would fit this and would be good for pre-boring chambers. I know I can use the carbide inserts TDAB but if I'm boring at slow speeds I may be better suited with HSS inserts (I talked...

My forearm on my 1885 is also free-floated and i believe my exceptional accuracy is in large part due to this. The forearm only touches the barrel where the screw and escutcheon is, which attaches it to the barrel.

Very nice design and workmanship! In the pursuit of a perfect jaws/fixture design to hold a barrel and allow it to pivot freely as it is adjusted at the other end by the spider I think the perfect solution would be some type of a ball and socket design where the ball had a hole large enough for...

To me, I would think that the least number of contact points the better. Four is certainly a minimum. Also, I would think that the contact points, or jaws, should be radiused in the front-to-back direction (along the barrel's axis), like the radiused noses of the threaded studs, so that when the...

I shoot choked barrels in the sport of BPCR Silhoutte. both Badger and RKS, and you can definitely feel the choke with a tightly fitting jag and patch. I don't think the choke is 0.001". Could be a lot less.

Sent you a reply back!

Hi- What is the procedure for properly slugging a barrel? How do you get the slug to swell up sufficiently? If the barrel has choke do you slug it from both the breech end and also the muzzle end and only then drive the slugs to say, the middle of the barrel in each case? Also, is it possible to...

I agree that the tops of the lands would be the most uniform in diameter as compared to the cut-grooves. However, with concerns towards bullet alignment, I'm not so sure that the lands would be more instrumental to the bullets alignment in the bore than the grooves. This would certainly be the...