What do I need to change my own barrel?

E

elmerdeer

New member
Hi Guys, I have a few barrels that will be threaded, chambered and headspaced from my gunsmith, ready to put on my rifle. And I would like to be able to change my own barrels instead of going to a gunsmith. What do I need to do this process properly?
I have the no-go gauge, my action is Stiller Predator and my barrels are stainless. From what I've read I know I need a barrel vice, a action wrench, and some anti-seize grease, which ones would you guys recomend?
And how do I get the barrel on properly so that I dont have a problem? What is the procedure?
Thanks
Elmer
 
The gage part is done by the gunsmith, so all is left is to screw the barrel on tight.

Brownell's assembly paste for an anti seize. Perhaps Dow P37 otherwise.

Check with out a firing pin that a loaded round chambers, and if it does, you're good to go. If you're really fussy, you could put some tape on the bolt face and make sure the same case does not go in, but, that's not always a good test unless you do some seriously close casework.
 
I would suggest a rear entry action wrench. Like said above you will need no gauges of any kind. The headspace is already set by your smith and you cant change it yourself. So just get a wrench a vise and a torque wrench and your good to go. I put my barrels on at 60 foot pounds. Thats snug enough for me. Good luck and enjoy! Lee
 
You don't need any gages but you must screw the barrel onto the exact reciever it was made for.

You need a rear entry action wrench, torque wrench, barrel vise, and anti-sieze lubricant. Have your gunsmith show you how to change them - you will see it's really simple.

Fitch
 
Guys, I recommend a rear entry wrench also over the side entry design but I could not find one listed either at Sinclair or Brownell. I know Lester sells one as does Kelblys and probably others.

Later-

Well, I just looked at the bottom of the page for the link I posted and there is the Al Davidson rear entry, but they are listing a separate one for the Remington and the Stolle. The avidsons I have will fit both??
 
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Jerry, isn't that...............

called, "Sell More Wrenches"?

I remember one of their catalogs spoke about VLD chamfering tools, "....but do not use for flat base bullets..."

A year or two later, according to another (later) catalog it was now OKAY to use these for FB bullets.
I guess they just had to sell-off overstocked conventional deburring tools :)
 
Elmer: As all of the above postings, and you might want to consider looking around for a used torque wrench from a retired auto/truck mechanic. I picked up an excellent Snap-on, 200 ft. # from a retired mechanic, at a very reasonable price. As Skeetlee mentioned, he uses 60#, I use 65#. I've been using the Davidson rear entry wrench ( also their barrel vise) from Sinclair & both are serving me well. Using heavy brown shopping bag paper, multiple wrap arounds to protect the barrel finish, and have never put a mark on polished stainless, glass beaded or blued. Really a simple procedure, no tricks.
 
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Hey, thanks for that tip! I'd never heard of shopping-bag paper.

When you say 'multiple wraps' about how many do you use??

Thanks again!!
 
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