Tikka t3 recoil lug a negative?

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Since the lug isn't a part of the action, is this considered a negative for 1000 yard shooting? Considering it or a Savage (barrel nut) build. Thanks.
 
2 options- weld it on or pin it in some way. This being said if its a steel lug as some are aluminum. Option 2 is to face off the action and install a traditional lug. Best option IMO if youre installing a new barrel.
 
T3`s

When I first worked on a Tikka T3...and looked at the recoil lug assembly...I was skeptical to say the least.....after shooting them..... THEY WORK....
 
When I first worked on a Tikka T3...and looked at the recoil lug assembly...I was skeptical to say the least.....after shooting them..... THEY WORK....


I put a post on the 1000 yard forum asking the same question. There have been 64 views and no comments. With some of the accuracy-precision shooting going on, somebody would have tried a before and after test using a pinned lug.
 
Like I have said before, why would you want to put a big washer between the action and barrel (rem style)? When you bed the T3 attach the lug to the action with a spot of super glue and it will be left behind when you pull it after bedding. Prep it properly so it bonds well.
I just did a Barnard SM for myself and I epoxied an aluminum lug to the bottom of the action encircling the front screw, the only prep I did was to clean it very well in case I ever want it back to original. Shoots great and I don't think it will ever come unglued with the screw squeezing it all together. Lots of ways to do it!
 
I put a post on the 1000 yard forum asking the same question. There have been 64 views and no comments. With some of the accuracy-precision shooting going on, somebody would have tried a before and after test using a pinned lug.

Put one in the general info forum
 
Looking at several European bolt action designs, it seems to me that the designers had little concern for creating an action to stock interface that favored the best possible bedding. This is not to say that they do not produce some fine rifles.
 
Barnard P also have the option to use this type of lug either bonded to the stock or screwed to the action. Done them both ways, either way shoots great. Far more bedding area than a Remington type.
 
so youre saying this has more bedding surface than a remington?
 

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I built a long range gun on a Sako TRGS action. It had a similar recoil arrangement as shown in Dusty's picture. It didn't seem to be suitable to the caliber I was building (338 Lpaua). So a Remington style, but much thicker than a standard Remington lug was used. I works very well and Ive had no problems with it.
 
Tikka recoil lug

I have done several Tikkas now using both methods mentioned above. I've made and installed sandwiched lugs on several, and this does work very well.. However for bedding them using the standard lug setup, i make a new lug from 416 stainless that is sized to be a light tap fit in the receiver. The bottom half is keyed for the bedding compound and i put in a 0.005" shim under the lug. Prep the stock and tap the lug into the receiver with the shim in place. Release agent everywhere except the bottom 80% of the lug.. Bed as normal..

When it pops out, remove shim and lightly stone the rear face of the lug recess in the receiver to create 0.001 clearance. Result, lug bedded in with 0.001 clearance on rear face and 0.005" clearance on the top..

Cheers
Lee
 
Barnard P also have the option to use this type of lug either bonded to the stock or screwed to the action. Done them both ways, either way shoots great. Far more bedding area than a Remington type.

I have a recoil lug design I made to suit the Barnard P or PL actions that is approx 8mm thick and screws to the underside of the action. Works great especially with big 338 Lapua and ultra mag chamberings. In my opinion, any chance to get away from sandwich type recoil lugs is a plus in my book. Especially if you want to re barrel later and not have to mess with bedding, etc again, or worry about lug parallelism (or lack of) and alignment.

Like Lee, I also bedd the T3 factory lugs in place with a clearance shim on lug to ensure the action does not rock on the lug after bedding, just in case things compress a bit with time (or rough operator who may own the rifle in the future).

Dean.
 
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