Threading a Ruger 77/22 receiver.

[Niccolo M.]

I have a very good customer who presented a Ruger 77/22 that “would not hold zero”. Before range testing this rifle I took it apart because there was a definite difference in the gap between the edges of the inletting along the stock forearm and the barrel. The bedding was casual even for a production rifle. It was further discovered that the barrel was not straight in the receiver. After further inspection it was discovered that the barrel tenon is a very casual fit in the receiver and the locking lugs on the bolt are not bearing evenly.
Has anyone on this forum threaded a Ruger 77/22 receiver to accept a threaded barrel ala 77/22 Hornet? Was the outcome worth the effort? I briefly considered boring the receiver and making a bushing to correct the fit of the factor barrel tenon (the tenon is in spec.). The fellow that owns this rifle has never balked at the cost of the work I’ve performed for him but requires that the performance of the finished rifle be the best that it can be and the labor cost to be fair. The price of a new barrel is a given along with the labor to thread and tune up the action. I mentioned that he would be ahead fiscally to purchase another rifle of different manufacture. This was rejected for now until it is determined that repairing this rifle would be way past penny wise and pound foolish.

Thanks,
Nic.

 

[Boyd Allen]

A very good gunsmith once told me that he epoxies in barrels in non-threaded installations. Some time later, a friend was getting inconsistent results with a high end aftermarket barrel in a 10-22. I suggested that he glue it in the receiver. After some resistance, he did. It worked. I guess it took the "hinge" out of the middle. As an added note, I think that he rigged up a clamping system that pushed the barrel back squarely (instead of from the bottom only) while the epoxy set up. He then installed the factory clamp.

 

[Al Nyhus]

I've seen one of these 77/22 Rugers that had a sleeve made up that pressed into the reciever. The i.d. of the sleeve was threaded and the tenon of the original factory barrel threaded to match...the rechambered factory barrel was then simply threaded into the reciever. It shot very, very well as compared to it's original configuration. -Al

 

[Jkob]

I have done a "bunch" of 10/22's and a few 77/22's. I set the receiver up against an angle plate in the mill, square it up, indicate in the receiver bore, take a light skim cut, back it out and take the boring bar and open it up to make a flat or boss on the top. I then thread it with a 3/4-16 tap supported by a dead center in the mill spindle. When you do it this way, there is no questioning the lockup between the barrel and receiver.

 

[Niccolo M.]

JKob, thanks - I hadn't considered using the mill and Blake Coax indicator on this particular job. I guess I’m kind of stuck in a rut with the lathe and receiver jig. What do you use to cut the extractor grooves with? When I get back to the shop I’ll paw through my cutters and see what might work.

Boyd, thanks - but I’ve got that whole Y chromosome thing going on and have a hard enough time with a glued in action let alone making the commitment to a glued in barrel.

Al, thanks - I like the threaded press in bushing idea. If I go that route I will most likely use a shrink fit, you know the drill – heat the female part and freeze the male part in liquid nitrogen slip the two together and when the temps equalize you will have to bore it out to remove it. I’ve kind of have a problem with wondering how much of an interference fit an investment cast receiver can take. In this application did the Gunsmith reuse the barrel block / holding clamp affair? I had toyed with the idea of boring out the receiver to true up and square the hole and turning the tenon on the new barrel to fit but I really wonder about the clamping system used on the 10/22 and 77/22 rifles.

I haven’t chosen a path yet, many thanks to everyone who looked and I would truly appreciate any other ideas or observations related to this conversion.

Nic.

 

[chowan]

"Casual fit" is an understatement on a 77/17 I had- the barrel fell out of the receiver when I removed the screws and clamp. I ended up wrapping a piece of shim stock around the tenon, giving a very snug fit.

It still wouldn't shoot.

 

[Jkob]

One final caution, if you use a press fit, don't make it too tight, you could crack the receiver.

 

[J. Pendergraft]

One final caution, if you use a press fit, don't make it too tight, you could crack the receiver.

I would use one of the strong loctite adhesives to secure a bushing. It will hold until the cows come home or until you put a lot of heat to it.

 

[M.D.Spencer]

My 77/22 is a hornet

I pulled that junk barrel off and threaded a old Remington barrel on it. Turned it into a .22 Johnson-spitfire. Now it shoots. The old barrel could hit a bull in the A$$ if it where stuck up it. When I first played with it, I bedded the receiver. Still problems. the wood was bending the action. Then I set it up so only the one screw held thing tight and the other part of the action floated . Slightly better accuracy. Maybe 1 3/4" group. Next, while work for Manson I re- cut the crown using one of his Crown cutting tools. Improved the group about 3/4 to 1". Next I pulled the barrel and slapped an old mid 70's Remington barrel on it. Wow!!! 3/4" group with newly reformed brass from junk dies. One thing I'd like to say is don't re-cut the receivers threads. Just let the tang part float. The actions aren't bad. Justed bad barrels once in awhile.

 

[M.D.Spencer]

My efforts where just to see if..

It could be done.

 

[M.D.Spencer]

The action is thread.

and the barrel comes off real easy.