stuck barrel

B

Bill McIntyre

Member
Hi ,

I had purchased this used gun this past summer. It is a bat 3lug action in a scarbourough stock. I just recently tried to take off the barrel with my action wrench and it won't budge. I do not want to force it and damage the action. I expect the action will need to be unglued for any work that would need to be done. Any thoughts on this subject would be appreciated.

Thanks and Have a Happy New Year!

Bill McIntyre
 
It could be as simple as more force is needed. Or the absolute worst case the threads are galled and will require the removal of the action, barrel cut off and the tenon bored out of the action. Then the action treads cleaned up. Until the barrel rotates a bit my guess is more force is needed.

Is there a chance of contacting the previous owner and find out how much torque was used?
 
might try warming it up real good with a hair dryer or similar. there might be some type of lock tight on the threads.
 
Thanks for you input. I believe the person who owned the gun passed away so there is no way of knowing what torque inch pounds were used. I purchased the gun from Bob White at Shooters Corner. I read some previous posts on this subject and to be on the safe side, I will be taking the gun to my gunsmith Jeff Peinhardt. I was able to get a hold of him later this morning. I hope it is not galled, but I will let him look at it and see what can be done. I always put some grease on my barrel tenon's and never had this kind of a problem.

On the bright side, it's better to find out about this problem now rather then during the match season.

Happy New Year to all!

Bill McIntyre
 
Bill McIntyre said:
I always put some grease on my barrel tenon's and never had this kind of a problem.

Bill McIntyre
Click to expand...

Anti seize works better than simple grease.

Some actions are designed to have a limited interference fit of barrel to action.
Threads are forced until they deform at least slightly.
 
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I don't agree about anti-sieze being "better". Anti-sieze has large particles of (AL, CU, etc) in it which build up on the action face and abutting surface.... that said, I do use lead-based (illegal) in situations where I'd like to bulk back a little on my timing.
 
Bill McIntyre said:
Thanks for you input. I believe the person who owned the gun passed away so there is no way of knowing what torque inch pounds were used. I purchased the gun from Bob White at Shooters Corner. I read some previous posts on this subject and to be on the safe side, I will be taking the gun to my gunsmith Jeff Peinhardt. I was able to get a hold of him later this morning. I hope it is not galled, but I will let him look at it and see what can be done. I always put some grease on my barrel tenon's and never had this kind of a problem.

On the bright side, it's better to find out about this problem now rather then during the match season.

Happy New Year to all!

Bill McIntyre
Click to expand...

Bill, I was going to mention what worked for me on one. I squirted Kroil all around the tenon from inside the action, then positioned the barrelled action vertically (action up) and waited. After about 24 hrs, there was a slight dampness around the action face. The barrel came loose normally after that.

Will be interesting to see what your 'smith comes up with...make sure and let us know.

Good shootin'. -Al
 
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I recently had this happen to a barrel/action that I did the work on and did the initial tightening to the action. Still can't figure out how it happened as I have done a fair number with no issues, but obviously too much torque was the culprit: see next

Friend of mine suggested chucking the barrel in the lathe, and using a cut-off tool about .010 in front of the action plunge in to root diameter. This worked like a charm by releasing the pressure on the shoulder, and didn't have to bore out the tenon.
Hope all turns out well with yours and no boring needed.
Mike
 
savet06 said:
Friend of mine suggested chucking the barrel in the lathe, and using a cut-off tool about .010 in front of the action plunge in to root diameter. This worked like a charm by releasing the pressure on the shoulder, and didn't have to bore out the tenon.
Hope all turns out well with yours and no boring needed.
Mike
Click to expand...

I have used that method many times to remove old barrels from old military actions. The P14 and P17 Enfields were the biggest culprits. I think that thru the years they rusted into place.
 
alinwa said:
I don't agree about anti-sieze being "better". Anti-sieze has large particles of (AL, CU, etc) in it which build up on the action face and abutting surface.... that said, I do use lead-based (illegal) in situations where I'd like to bulk back a little on my timing.
Click to expand...

That depends on the type of anti-seize.
 
All of this is why I use outside action wrenches. With a real wrench ain't NUTTIN' stuck!! ;)

But it don't work with glue-ins....obviously
 
Hi,

I dropped the gun off with Jeff P yesterday. He had a few ideas which might work before going with drastic measures.

I will keep you posted!

Thanks for all of your insight and suggestions.

One thing I learned from the experience is this. Beside using my bore scope to check the barrel, I will ask the owner if they have to tools to remove the barrel so I can check the action and threads. That would have saved me all of this grief!

Bill McIntyre
 
If you scope mounts are still on the action try removing the front screw. If it was to long it can lock the action to the barrel
 
Wish I'd thought of that!

Karnak said:
If you scope mounts are still on the action try removing the front screw. If it was to long it can lock the action to the barrel
Click to expand...

Definitely the first thing to check, and the first thing we all over look.

GsT
 
Get some Kroil in there. If you need to remove the scope, do it. Let it soak. If it's galled...it's already done and you can't change that now. Just be patient and don't force it beyond just breaking loose. Kroil, or similar, is your friend!
 
one way to get Kroil in there is thru that front screw hole....... fill it clear up with Kroil and let 'er set, flat.

after a day or three of that- - - - stick yer air blower on there tight - - - - close yer eyes - - - - pull the trigger - - - - rinse and repeat - - - - messy

after that fill 'er up and run the screw in, repeat. Use the screw to drive the Kroil in

When all that's done.....and doesn't work..... IF you have to take 'er out of the stock anyways to turn down a ring on the lathe, wrecking the barrel

Send it to me and I'll just take it off for you and save the barrel for the cost of shipping

I'll videotape the procedure and you can watch it on youtube :)
 
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