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smoker
Guest
I'm beginning to set up a ;long range rifle and wonder if the proper proceedure is to be dead on at 100 yards and then set your scope to zero? Sounds logical to me but been fooled before. Thanks smoker
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Smoker if you're talking about zeroing you're scope knobs, yes you can do it that way if you're going to be using it later to shoot 100 yards. I leave mine set for 1000 yards, zeroed that is, then at the end of the season put one more turn of elevation on so it doesen't take a set. Keeps the tension off. Just be sure you put a piece of tape on the scope to remind you to turn it back or you won't like it.
Joe Salt
Joe Salt
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smoker
Guest
Thanks Joe. So it's better to dial down than it is to dial up? Guess I'm in trouble already as I do not have a range where I could prove the 1000 yard setting. We hopefully will have 600-650 soon. smoker
C
Cheechako
Guest
Smoker
If you run a ballistic chart, you can determine the come-ups for any yardage. Simply sight your rifle in at 100 yards for whatever elevation is needed for the yardage you want. For example, if your chart says you need 22 MOA of come-up at 100 yards to equal a 1000 setting, you simply sight in 22 inches high. Add 1 MOA or so of horizontal to accomodate spin drift and your first shot at 1000 should be close enough so that only a little tweaking will put you right on.
If that 22 MOA come up will use up too much of your scope's adjustment then you need to install a tapered base, or get a scope with a bigger adjustment. If you're going to be doing a lot of shooting at different yardages between 100 and 1000 yards, your probably best with a tapered base to start with. Say, for example, one that centers you at 500 yards.
If you run a ballistic chart, you can determine the come-ups for any yardage. Simply sight your rifle in at 100 yards for whatever elevation is needed for the yardage you want. For example, if your chart says you need 22 MOA of come-up at 100 yards to equal a 1000 setting, you simply sight in 22 inches high. Add 1 MOA or so of horizontal to accomodate spin drift and your first shot at 1000 should be close enough so that only a little tweaking will put you right on.
If that 22 MOA come up will use up too much of your scope's adjustment then you need to install a tapered base, or get a scope with a bigger adjustment. If you're going to be doing a lot of shooting at different yardages between 100 and 1000 yards, your probably best with a tapered base to start with. Say, for example, one that centers you at 500 yards.
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mike in co
Guest
to shoot at 100 yds i use two target set exactly 24" apart top to bottom. shoot at the bottom, hit the top. for 200 yds its more like 40 some inches apart. the bottom line is that with the tapered base in place you can still shoot at 100/200....
mike in co
mike in co
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smoker
Guest
Thanks Folks, you have given me enough info to get in motion. Much appreciated, smoker
I usually find I need more that 22 MOA, and frequently more than 24 as a come-up from 100 to 1,000 yards. Use the JBM program to calculate what you need -- it does a pretty good job.
Easier, if your bullet is in his chart, is
http://bisonballistics.com/point_mass_calculations/new
Easier, if your bullet is in his chart, is
http://bisonballistics.com/point_mass_calculations/new
S
smoker
Guest
Thanks Charles E, are you one in the same 'curmudgeon' from the old cast bullets? Anyway hello and thanks for the info. I'm just getting started and have worked up a decent load using Hornady 150 JBT bullets I bought in bulk from Miodway. I'm getting nice groups @ 100 but want to shoot at all ranges....you know like Woodchucks for practice from 50 to 300 maybe.