I'm curious as to what depths the manufacturers cut, button, or hammer forge the rifling on their barrels. Does it vary by caliber? Does it vary by manufacturer or is there a set standard or average?
The reason I ask, is that while I can see the rifling on my '77 Rem ADL 22-250 it is not very pronounced. Would the rifling depths of today be the same as in 1977? I would like to look at a current production 1:14 twist Rem 22-250 and assume that my rifling is acceptable, or not, based on what I see.
This thread was prompted by a non-existent copper fouling problem that I'm being told (by posters) that I should have based on the cheap ammunition (Win 45 gr. JHP white box) I'm using.
This is my first rifle, purchased used, and I can't compare it to past rifles or experience because I don't have any.
I would like to say thank you to the forum host and posters for their input on this site. Your posts have already saved me some money, time, and frustration.
The bore and groove diameters of barrels are pretty much standardized within a caliber, ± maybe 0.001" whether they're hammer forged, cut rifled, or button rifled. For a .22 centerfire the bore diameters are about 0.218" and groove diameters are about 0.224". The bore diameters will vary more than groove diameters from maker to maker because the bullet diameters are standardized. If the bore is too large accuracy is not good, if it's too small pressures might be higher than desirable. So, anyway rifling depth is on the order of 0.003" to 0.0035". In a good barrel the bore will be ±0.0001" or less from one end to the other in finished condition, and the groove diameter will have the same tolerances.
As for fouling how are you determining that you are or aren't getting copper fouling? The barrel has to be cleaned some in order for the copper to be visible since the powder fouling will be on top of the copper. A couple of patches wet with about any modern bore solvent from Hoppe's #9 to the best and latest will clean enough powder off to make copper if present visible at the muzzle. Some solvents like Hoppe's #9 and Butch's Bore Shine can be left in the bore for an hour or more without any harm, and a followup patch after that period will come out blue if copper fouling is present.
The cost of the ammunition doesn't have anything to do with fouling, it depends on the velocity and pressure of the load, and to some extent on the jacket alloy. Barrel condition makes more difference than anything IMHO.
Others will tell me I'm all wet, but that's not new.
..hahahaa...But ....your advice is "hi and dri" .....
Ducky....he is rite...get the carbon out ...then U can see the copper...bbl cleaning is like house work....it is never done...just when u think it is clean...you gotta start over again....
Larry is rite about the bore dims. too....they are never more than .001 different from specs.....the good bbls are very uniform and made from GOOD metal and properly stress relieved and heat treated (frozen) ....
You cant really tell much with the eye...unless the bbl is in "terrible" shape....I have a varmint bbl here that was a BR bbl and then a .243 ...with a total of 6000 rds thru it ,the bullets just scoot down the bore now,culdnt hit a big bull at 10 yds......it is very "blurry" when you look down it !!!....Roger (the DRIP!!)
"As for fouling how are you determining that you are or aren't getting copper fouling? The barrel has to be cleaned some in order for the copper to be visible since the powder fouling will be on top of the copper."
I clean after each range visit with a Gunslick kit that I purchased. I also purchased Gunslick's aerosol copper remover and followed their directions for 15 minutes the first time and 30 minutes the second time. No blue or green residue was removed either time. I took the rifle into Sportsman's Warehouse for new bases (the Nikon Monarch wouldn't fit using Burris Sig. Z rings and the existing bases) and while I was there I asked the gun guy to take a look down the barrel for copper fouling. He used some kind of light gizmo and said the barrel was clean and shiny with no visible copper deposits. He had younger eyes than me so I took him at his word. Hopefully, he knows what he's talking about being that is his business.
Do your rifle's barrel and yourself a favor and buy a good one piece rod instead of the probably jointed rod that came with the Gunslick cleaning kit. The good ones may seem expensive, but they aren't really since they don't have joints that can flex wear out the barrel faster than shooting. Also use a rod guide, and keep the rod clean.
