remington actions

G

g n brezinski

Member
sirs given these actions were use a lot in the bench rest competion in early 70s and the 60s.my question is I see them for sell.i know about the resale value is not there but would they not make a hell of a ground hog hunting rifle.also are in general the actions are reworked to make them true to the center line of the bolt ways and the thread recut and face of actions cleaned up
gary b
 
You are right in all your questions. The Remington is the grand father for all the custom actions that are available. The problem with most old Remington actions is that by the time you have the action trued and in line with action, bolt, action face and all the other gunsmithing that may need to be done, you have spent more money than what you would have spent for the custom action. Now, if you are a gunsmith and you can do all the work then it may be worth it.
 
remington actiom

what I am asking and sorry about being winded is I saw several rifles on a sight that were Remington based.they are benchrest rifles for sell.now I would assumed they have been trued to .what would be a fair price for one.they are listed at between 800 and 1200 dollars.a couple are have sleeves on actions;
gary b
am not buying any was just wanting to know your thoughts on such.alsothey would be for hunting groundhogs and a big maybe at a groundhog shoot.
 
And I understand what you are saying about buying a Remington that has Ben trued, etc. If that action is selling for up to $1200.00 why not get a new custom action for a few dollars more and have your choice of port, bolt handle configuration and other goodies?
 
An old BR Remington 700 action would make a great base for a varmint rifle build. All the work has been done and you can probably get one for a great price. Be careful when rebarreling and be sure to check the thread diameter as that has probably been modified to a larger diameter.
 
I have a Panda Action with R-bolt, L-Port.
Single feed by hand.
It was assembled by Kelbly’s.

It is very very accurate.
One barrel in .22-250 AI, one in 6mm REM AI.
Both are tight necks. Brass is 0.0100 thickness.
Trigger is a Jewel BR model. Set to less than 2 oz.
Leupold variable with a power doubler. About 18x to solid 40x.

Death on Groundhogs at many hundreds of yards. 400+ with the 6 mm REM AI.
 
A 700 action on an old bench rifle is worth ~$500 +$200 if it has a Jewell trigger and some bolt upgrades. If it has a desirable stock, $400 or so more. Barrel...well depends on a lot of factors. Say $0-300.

Truing a 700 action takes me about 15 minutes in the shop, and doesn’t add much value in my opinion.

Ben
 
Bnhpr,
"Truing a 700 action takes me about 15 minutes in the shop, and doesn’t add much value in my opinion."

A piloted tap is one option.
But
An indicated single point job should take substantially longer.
Or
The CNC'd thread milling option.
 
Does anyone here actually do that? I mean, on a regular basis? I did it once I think, to tick the box.

For clarification, by truing I just put the Hinnant mandrel in the action, between centers, skim the face just enough to remove the chop saw marks.

The 15 mins is putting faceplate/centers in, maybe 20 if If I grind a facing tool.
 
g n brezinski said:
sirs given these actions were use a lot in the bench rest competion in early 70s and the 60s.my question is I see them for sell.i know about the resale value is not there but would they not make a hell of a ground hog hunting rifle.also are in general the actions are reworked to make them true to the center line of the bolt ways and the thread recut and face of actions cleaned up. gary b
Click to expand...

Just because they were 'done' doesn't mean they were done correctly. Many 700's from the early days have the extraction camming and bolt timing all messed up. :( Fortunately, most of that can be corrected with a new bolt handle or bolt but that still may leave you with the cam angle on the receiver all herked up.

And there's some nice ones out there, as well.

Do your homework and choose wisely. ;) -Al
 
I have one

that was built by a "Gunsmith". When I sent it to a second Gunsmith for a re-barrel it was discovered that the "Gunsmith" hadn't done much good for the action when he thought he had trued it.

I bought a SS 700 off the internet last winter for a project for cheap money. I had a bolt already. Had a friend who is a Tooling Engineer and gun maker check the alignments and he said it was only off about one tenth on the face. I bought a Jewel trigger with a built in bolt release and am waiting for a Sako extractor to be installed THEN, I'm gonna build another HBR rifle with it. I won't have much over $400 in it when I'm done, excluding the trigger. I bought a used RP/LB rifle last year wand found, after using rifles that eject empties for so long, I did not like the RB/LP. For me, right eject is a must now. I really don't mind feeding it on the right side.

Pete
 
I like Remington 700 actions a lot, although for some reason all mine have been short actions. I like the model 7 as well. It's probably more of a style thing than a function thing.

Maybe 15 years ago I was in the market for a model 7 stainlss synthetic in .308. A friend said a friend of his had just sold a "low mileage tack driver" to a dealer for cheap. I found the dealer, and based on my friend's recommendation, I didn't look it over as carefully as I should have. When I got it home, accuracy was poor. I noticed that the barrel had no clearance on the left side toward the tip of the forend. I relieved a bit of the tupperware. It was still hard against the left. I relieved some more. Same story.

I pulled the stock off, removed the bolt and looked down the barrel from the rear. It was obvious that the barrel was screwed on crooked. From the breech to the muzzle it was out of alignment by maybe a half inch. I got an RMA from Remington and back it went. It was returned to me as repaired but it had all matching serial numbers and they were not the same as the original, obviously a totally new rifle. This barrel was on straight and accuracy was good. I still have it. The dealer and the "friend" are long gone however.
 
Bnhpr said:
Does anyone here actually do that? I mean, on a regular basis? I did it once I think, to tick the box.

For clarification, by truing I just put the Hinnant mandrel in the action, between centers, skim the face just enough to remove the chop saw marks.

The 15 mins is putting faceplate/centers in, maybe 20 if If I grind a facing tool.
Click to expand...

Chuckle chuckle chuckle, do you use a mill bastard or flat bastard?
 
Yes, I call it my “Butch file”

Answer the question.

Do you practice what you preach?

Painstaking jig up 700’s to recut oversized threads?

Referencing from what? The crooked bolt raceway? The chop saw face?
 
Bnhpr said:
Yes, I call it my “Butch file”

Answer the question.

Do you practice what you preach?

Painstaking jig up 700’s to recut oversized threads?

Referencing from what? The crooked bolt raceway? The chop saw face?
Click to expand...

Hey kid, what did I preach? Did I get your goat?
Chuckle chuckle
 
You guys are much faster than I am. It takes me 15 just to put the mandrel in the 4 jaw and the live center than indicate. I don’t do threads though. Still don’t see the need.
 
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