Pellet head size & weight sorting

B

Boomer_Mikey

Guest
Like most of us I've always made an attempt to upgrade my pellets by weight sorting and checking the average head size range of each lot number and tin of pellets with a dial or digital caliper.

I recently made my own air gauge and calibrated it to agree with a friends air gauge I share information with. This really permits me to understand what I'm working with.
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Until recently, I haven't had barrels and guns with the accuracy potential to make a significant difference in pellet selection that was meaningful or worthwhile. With these tools (air gauge and sensitive scale) I have been able to see that with weight sorting and head size sorting I can eliminate the extremes of weight and head size to improve accuracy in my guns to a reasonable advantage with a significant amount of work - 4-6 hours for each tin of pellets.

And then... I found a lot number of pellets for my HV gun that destroyed everything I worked so hard to understand. Weight - very consistent, extreme spread of .16 grains; head size - every size between 4.49mm and 4.51mm - wide spread that shoot better than anything I've weight and head size sorted to date. This supports the recent opinion of several record holding shooters that pellets straight from the tin are good enough if your gun likes them.

Does this mean I'm not weighing and sorting pellets by head size anymore? NO, I haven't found a lot number that works without sorting in my LV gun yet; until I find the magic pellet for the LV gun I'll continue to upgrade my existing pellets by sorting.

Mike Aber
 
Same Boat

Mike,
I am in the same boat. I have not sorted and air gauged a .22 pellet in over two years for my open class gun. It shoots 16 gr and 18 gr from the tin. The barrel eats anything!
The same with my .177 HV Thomas eats anything from the Tin so Have not sorted pellets for 1 1/2 years.
But my LV Thomas only liked one lot of AA pellets from the tin. Now I have a bunch of sleeves of AA and JSB's that don't work and am running out of good pellets. Looks like I will have to sort and air gauge my LV pellet until I find a lot that works! It sure takes the fun out of shooting when you have to spend so much time sorting pellets!

FYI I would damage some pellets either in .22 or .177 air gauging as the pellet wasn't centered on the pellet base. Todd Banks told me to use the .22 holder for the .177 pellets and let the air center the pellet!
I opened the .177 base to .25 so the air would center the .22 pellet. No more damaged pellets!

Paul
 
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Mike,
FYI I would damage some pellets either in .22 or .177 air gauging as the pellet wasn't centered on the pellet base. Todd Banks told me to use the .22 holder for the .177 pellets and let the air center the pellet!
I opened the .177 base to .25 so the air would center the .22 pellet. No more damaged pellets!

Paul

I noticed the same thing with some pellets... the skirts are various diameters and they wouldn't sit flat in the shellholder pocket. I cured that with a 5mm endmill to leave enough room for those larger than average skirts. I believe Dan uses a 3/16" endmill to create the pocket in his shellholder for .177 pellets (0.1875") , 5mm = 0.19685"

We must think alike as I have drawers full of sleeves of pellets, mostly AA and JSB with some H&N. I haven't tried .22 yet but I'm thinking of trying a .22 barrel in my TM1000X and switching that gun to open class. I have a drawer full of JSB 15.9's that are excellent.

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It's nice to have the tools to make and fix things; I've been a Machine Technology Hobbyist for over 10 years now, another expensive hobby. The tooling costs much more than the machines with the need for everything in metric sizes as well as imperial sizes when working on airguns.

Boomer
 
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I sure am Envious!

Mike,
I sure am envious of your shop! Not just your Lathe and Milling machine? Do you know how many Antique cars I could fill your shop up with?

Paul
 
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