Newbie needs help..6 or 6.6 Creedmoor

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aaatkr

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Newbie needs help..6 or 6.5 Creedmoor

Looking for a PVA John Hancock rifle in one of these two calibers. The rifle will be used primarily for informal target shooting from 100 to 600 yards, possibly a bit longer if I can get on my friends property. Primary use would be targets, occasional hunting. I like the fact the 6 has less recoil compared to the 6.5 and is a bit faster. I do not reload at this stage of the game. The availability of factory ammunition is greater for the 6.5 and barrel life seems to be 30 to 50 percent longer. Not a fan of the increased recoil though. If I shot 120 grain bullets with a brake would that tame recoil down to that of a 6mm with 105 hybrids( the round I would likely shoot with the 6mm) or would I be sacrificing some accuracy compared with the 140 Bergers more commonly used in the 6.5. The 6.5 is more adaptable to hunt with should I go in that direction. I have no experience with either caliber only owning .243 , 30-06 and rimfires. Should I go with the 6 and rebarrel as needed? I welcome your opinions. Thanks. The rifle will weigh 10 1/2 to 11 pounds complete. How does recoil compare to a .243 Win shooting 100 grain factory loads. Sorry if you've read this post before. I posted this on a couple of other sites. I just wanted as much info as I could get. Thanks.
 
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I have a Savage Desert Tactical in 6mm Creedmoor. It's about 9.5 pounds with scope. Shooting Federal match ammo with 105 Bergers, I am pleased at how little recoil it has. I have no experience with the 6.5 Creedmoor but I shoot several rifles in .260 Remington and recoil is not bad, but I'd much rather shoot the 6. Recoil does add up over a long session.

I'm not sure where you get your barrel life figures, but I suspect they are somewhat subjective. It will differ depending on barrel steel, type of load etc. I wouldn't let that be a big factor in your decision.

An informal survey of factory ammo and bullets showed costs for apples to apples were about the same (Hornady ELD-X bullets or loaded ammo on Midway).

Be different. Go with the 6. There's a reason that 6mm dominates across the course match rifle competition.
 
the 6 is going to be a bbl burner.
6.5 case necked down to 6, same powder volume,
neck becomes a nozzle to increase gas velocity and burn up your throat.
pardon me, but what recoil ?
 
6.5 creedmoor

I ve bought two 6.5s in the last couple of years. One a little 6 lbs. savage for my granddaughter and a 6.5 Montana for me. The little Savage bucks a little with 140s. I loaded her some varget and 140 ELDX a couple grains under max. Her and her sister killed a buck with it. They were close though, under a 100 yds. The Montana I got for me, I have warmed em up in it and haven't noticed the recoil. In a 10 or 12 pound rifle I don't think the recoil will be a problem with the 6.5. They both shoot good at a 100 yds. the Savage .5 in. the Montana smaller than that when I do my part right. It shoots 130s and 140s about the same. Doug
 
High BC bullets require a 1 in 8" or 8.5" twist for either selection

Most people on this site know that both Creedmoors have the same ballistics as the .260 Remington (6.5mm) or the .243 Win/6mm Remington (6.0mm) with longer throats for the high BC bullets. That said, the the 140's for the 6.5 and the 105's for the 6.0 require a 1 in 8 to 8.5" twist rate. You will want to start reloading to realize the accuracy potential for either. A further advantage to reloading would be using lighter bullets such a the 107 Sierra Mtkg for the 6.5 or 95gr or less bullets for the 6.0. Using the light bullets for caliber with powders like Accurate 5744 can greatly reduce recoil and muzzle blast for use out to 400 meters. These light loads greatly extend barrel life and render a barrel break irrelevant. Barrel life is all about the volume of exploded powder thru a small hole. If you can reduce the volume of powder by 30% and still maintain accuracy and reasonable velocity one can double or triple barrel life. Use full power loads only for very long range or hunting large game.

Rich
 
the velocity of that powder is the clue. IMHO
richie301 said:
Barrel life is all about the volume of exploded powder thru a small hole. If you can reduce the volume of powder by 30% and still maintain accuracy and reasonable velocity one can double or triple barrel life. Use full power loads only for very long range or hunting large game.

Rich
Click to expand...
 
The Savage Desert Tactical in 6mm Creedmoor comes with a 1 in 7.5" twist rate. I believe that will stabilize some bullets up to 115 grains, depending on length.

Yes, the 6 will likely erode a barrel faster than the 6.5, but a whole lot less than a .243 Winchester due to the shoulder angle and neck length.

Barrel life also has a lot to do with whether it is allowed to cool some during long shot strings. The .264 Winchester got a reputation as a "barrel burner" and yet most of these rifles will last the life of a hunter without rebarreling if not abused through overheating or overuse. No, it will probably not go 3000 rounds, but then the .264 is a lot more overbore than the 6mm Creedmoor.

This guy doesn't sound like he's going to be flogging his rifle too hard as in F-Class every weekend. Fear of shorter barrel life is not something I'd let the decision rest totally on. If one is fearful of that, buy a Savage where rebarreling is a whole lot simpler and cheaper. Don't like the 6, rebarrel to a 6.5. Better yet, have both and use them interchangeably.
 
I checked out the PVA John Hancock. Fine looking rifle and not a bad price. In the 6mm Creedmoor, it uses a 1 in 7 inch twist. That should stabilize all commonly available bullets.

Neither the 6 or the 6.5 will have objectionable recoil for most shooters. If you elect to use a brake, consider the friends you won't make due to noise. If one comes up next to me on the line, I generally retire for the day in consideration of what hearing I have left, and I use both plugs and muffs at the same time. In these calibers, a brake is more of a "bright shiny object" than a tool. Now a supressor is a different matter entirely.

You'll want a high quality variable scope to compliment that fine rifle. I say variable, because you sound like you haven't settled on a shooting discipline, so you'll want to be flexible.
 
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