New reamer time!

W

WallyDog

New member
Im looking to buy a new reamer in 6ppc. Im thinking .040 free bore with 1 1/2 deg leade. Do I need to specify body dimensions? Ill use a Redding SB 6ppc die after every yardage just to keep things from binding up. Maybe headspace it a thou or two also. I don't plan on shooting hot maybe 29.3 or so of 133? If you want to PM me that's fine too. I been out a long time and I know the reamer grinder names have changed a little.
Thanks!
 
It's easier

to get sizing die first and see what it does to the brass. Then make the reamer fit the die.
Usually a SB redding sizes to much at the body-shoulder junction. I shoot for .0005 at the shoulder and .0015 at the .200 line.

Richard
 
I WOULD LOVE TO SEE
a post on reamer and matching sizing die
that are off the shelf items
 
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I depends on what

you consider "matching" What I want is brass that will not get clicky and decent case life by not overworking the case. A quick and decent way to see what the body-shoulder sizing is: Fire a case and put your calipers at the junction and lock them down. Size the case and see how far the caliper slides down the case. It shouldn't be over .100 down at the most. I have seen guys using dies that the caliper would go halfway down the case.
To measure the butt you really need a .200 recess gauge and a blade mic to really know what going on there.
A good reamer-die combo is really important for several reasons, you don't want to be upsetting the gun in the bags while opening the bolt. Plus it's hard to run with sticky brass. Get this part of reloading right, it will pay off big in the long run.

Richard
 
I'll second Tim's suggestion. The 1045 is a proven design and you can change the neck diameter if you so choose (ex - I run a 1046 JGS which has a 0.264" neck, all other specs are pure 1045). Chamber the barrel, fire some brass 2 - 3 times, and send the cases to Harrells for a die.

-Lee
www.singleactions.com
 
I've been shooting the JGS1045 with a .269 neck for two years now, it works fine. The thicker necks require less maintenance than the .262 necks do. I use the smallest base sizer that Harrels sells, maybe a #3, the whole combination works fine. I'm going to try annealing after five firings this year and see how that works.
 
I'll throw in a word with all these guys..... you've been given a good, solid direction IMO

No need to reinvent the wheel just for climbing back on the bike :)

If you are dead set on that Redding die then I guess you can have a die made from it. I've sent several FL dies to PTG, one of them a Redding (PTG actually makes the reamers that Redding uses) and had them make reamers from them. I've also sent CerroSafe casts.
 
retooling

alinwa said:
I'll throw in a word with all these guys..... you've been given a good, solid direction IMO

No need to reinvent the wheel just for climbing back on the bike :)

If you are dead set on that Redding die then I guess you can have a die made from it. I've sent several FL dies to PTG, one of them a Redding (PTG actually makes the reamers that Redding uses) and had them make reamers from them. I've also sent CerroSafe casts.
Click to expand...

Not dead set on the Redding per se. Its what I have left from years past so Im figuring on using it if possible. I have recently went back in the tool and die trade after trying retirement for a while. I have an edm sinker at my disposal and my new boss wont mind some after-hours use. Ill get the 1045 with a .268 neck then modify the Redding to suit the reamer. Im so glad to have an optical comparator again to get precise numbers from the reamer and make a really accurate print.
 
retooling

Tim Singleton said:
I use a .268 neck on a 1045 reamer. I changed the freebore diameter to .2435
Whidden makes a great set of dies
Click to expand...
Im thinking this is a good set of numbers for ease of using Lapua or Norma brass. Hoping to make my own die and dfit it if I can find some free time in the shop.
 
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