new 6br

C

CMaier

Guest
talked about this in both gunsmith and 600/1000 yd,
but the end product will fit here better.
cleaned up rem 700 short action, 0 freebore, no turn neck
for lapua blue box brass.
finished at 26", but no real stock.( put all my money in the mk13 project)
so i will open up a rem oem varmint stock to clear the bbl and the recoil lug.
then bed and see how it shoots.
intent is p'dog rifle with 58 vmax bullets.
 
So with load development done,
i have the hornady 58's doing 3700 fps and shooting
just over 1/2". Good for p'dogs.
I do not like the way the stock 700 stock
rotates in the bags, and may add a flat on the fore end,
or get an after market stock.
 
Sounds about right for p-dogs. You may get that thing to shoot a little better given time.

BTW - how big is an average p-dog? I could look it up but somebody save me the trouble....
 
no such thing...lol
in spring you have pups that are small
latter fat well fed adults.
so from3x7 to 5x 9 when they stand up..
just a guess...
hard to miss inside 200 yds, not tuff at 300.
past that the wind and distance requires a bit of skill.
they have been hit at over 1000 yds.
 
Sounds like a nice shooting

So with load development done,
i have the hornady 58's doing 3700 fps and shooting
just over 1/2". Good for p'dogs.
I do not like the way the stock 700 stock
rotates in the bags, and may add a flat on the fore end,
or get an after market stock.

rifle. Have you ladder tested the rifle? Also, I would get a second barrel chambered up. At that velocity(powder amount) my guess is it will not shoot this well too long?? Good luck with your project.s
 
In the name of experimentation,


I'm going to take this another way....

It is my opinion that it ain't about "tracking" nor about "rolling" nor about shape in any way. IMO whether or not a gun SHOOTS is based on how it reacts to each shot. I equate it to a tuning fork. I believe a good rifle to be analogous to a tuning fork in that the barrel and the stock resonate (or don't) together as a unit. I believe that to work, consistently, this tuning fork must be TIGHT.... it must resonate as a unit. The two parts feed off each other, they react TO each other and they must do so CONSISTENTLY.....and a floppy rubber worm of a factory stock does not do this. It CANNOT resonate nor feed back consistently because it's not rigid enough. It's not attached rigidly, and even when it is it's just to soft and floppy. Basically, you cut off one side of a tuning fork and hang a wiener on it, it don't sound sweet no more.

Me, being me, I don't throw much away. I'd rather throw time and money at it than waste it....so here are ways I've modified throw-away factory stocks from Rem and Sav, making them into test mules which SHOOT and that are easily and quickly modified for my various attachment/bedding/blocking experiments. Theory of operation is, take the stock out of the equation by attaching the barreled action rigidly to an AL forearm piece and using the stock just for a handle. Note the substantial AL pillars. I also have about 15 McMillan/HS/Richardson/Manners/MPI/Rimrock etc stocks and setups which I modify and compare against so I'm constantly baselining, not just winging it. I just hate to cut off a Manners stock to install an over-the-barrel Quiet Calfee Device, hence the cut down factory stuff.

My point is, I believe the stock to be IMPORTANT to accuracy. I think the gun needs a stock to shoot. IMO proof is in the fact that the rifle shoots 1/2moa. 1/2moa AUTOMATICALLY MISSES any prairie poodle over a section away.

I couldn't (don't, won't) live with that.

I suggest you help the gun shoot by replacing or modifying the stock.

You must excuse the picture quality as this site won't accept pictures from anything but my 10yr-old flip phone.


0702162140.jpg

0702162142.jpg

0702162144.jpg
 
i like it when ugly works.
i have done shorter 7" x3" flats, but may just try your long one..
 
Back
Top