Neck Turning Discrepancy

A

Al Virgilio

Guest
I have two rifle with tight necks, 22-250 Ackley Improved and 6 MM Remington, so I have to turn my brass. I read an article that says to full length size the brass to force the shoulder and body into a standard configuration and then trim to one length. Other articles don't include those steps. Are they required? This is of course is new brass that hasn't been fire formed. I can understand trimming so the necks are cut the same length after setting the stop on the cutter. My only concern when fire forming the 22-250 Imp the cases are shorter than the minimum. I don't know if this should be a concern. Thanks for your responses.
 
I have two rifle with tight necks, 22-250 Ackley Improved and 6 MM Remington, so I have to turn my brass. I read an article that says to full length size the brass to force the shoulder and body into a standard configuration and then trim to one length. Other articles don't include those steps. Are they required? This is of course is new brass that hasn't been fire formed. I can understand trimming so the necks are cut the same length after setting the stop on the cutter. My only concern when fire forming the 22-250 Imp the cases are shorter than the minimum. I don't know if this should be a concern. Thanks for your responses.

The purpose of sizing and trimming to the same length before turning would be so when you set the stop on the cutter you are cutting to the same point on the neck of each case. If the cases are different lengths you will not cut to the same point and different neck tension could occur.
 
The purpose of sizing and trimming to the same length before turning would be so when you set the stop on the cutter you are cutting to the same point on the neck of each case. If the cases are different lengths you will not cut to the same point and different neck tension could occur.

As long as the bearing surface of the bullet is in the neck turned portion of the brass, neck tension will be the same regardless of how long the cut is on the neck.
 
I turn my necks into the shoulder so I don't get the donut. Based on this does a few thousands plus or minus make a difference? Do you guys neck turn your brass?
 
I turn my necks into the shoulder so I don't get the donut. Based on this does a few thousands plus or minus make a difference? Do you guys neck turn your brass?

The "donut" doesn't make any difference as long as the bullet doesn't touch it. Neither do I (sincerely) believe that accurate turning is necessary as long as all rounds have some clearance...but I don't see how you could use a neck turner and get much more than a thousandths difference. Yes, I turn necks because I thought necks needed to be turned. Come to find out, that ain't as true as I thought!
 
The "donut" doesn't make any difference as long as the bullet doesn't touch it. Neither do I (sincerely) believe that accurate turning is necessary as long as all rounds have some clearance...but I don't see how you could use a neck turner and get much more than a thousandths difference. Yes, I turn necks because I thought necks needed to be turned. Come to find out, that ain't as true as I thought!

I meant if you don't trim the brass to the same length then you will turn into the shoulder by that difference say .003 depending on the brass, because there is a stop on the K&M neck turner. I use Winchester brass and they are not all exactly the same length. Obviously you should be able to turn the thickness of the necks to within .0005. These rifles have tight neck chambers and therefore I have to turn the necks so I have .002 clearance in the chamber.
 
What I'm saying is to turn the brass until you get to the shoulder and stop. I'm fairly sure I'm in the minority on this so do it however you feel is best.
 
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