My new lathe - Precision Matthews PM1340

S

sagreen83

Guest
Ok, I was debating buying one of the many grizzly machines, starting with the 4003G. I started a thread talking about the 4003G, and found that Grizzly was backordered. So, I thought I'd move up to the next level and get a 4016. It was backordered until August. I tried to move up another level, and it was backordered as well. In the last 2 weeks I have tried to order at least 10 different things from grizzly that were backordered. I'm in the retail industry, and I'm getting worried that one of my favorite companies is in trouble.

Ok, I finally settled on a Precision Matthews PM1340. http://precisionmatthews.com/PM1330-1340Lathe.html I worked with Matt at this company, and they are great to work with so far. I got a smoking deal on this lathe. I bought the lathe with a Taper Adapter, QCTP, Collets, Collet chuck and DRO, all shipped Liftgate for around $4200.

If you are all interested, I'll post pictures of my progress as I get it setup, and working. I am a complete newb with a Metal lathe, so this should be an interesting ride. I bought some nice tooling, live center, drill chuck, center drilling bits etc, so I should be ready to at least get started. I cant wait! It is supposed to show up next Tuesday. I'll get my wiring ran this weekend in prep. I just got a new Hobart welder as well so I have to wire anyway to play with this new toy over the weekend.

Here is a list of stuff that I have bought so far.

Lathe : PM1340 - http://precisionmatthews.com/PM1330-1340Lathe.html (with DRO, Taper Attachment, Collets, and QCTP)

Grizzly Tooling and Accessories:
(1) H5902 BULL NOSE CENTER MT3
(1) G8787 DELUXE TOOL BIT SET W/INSERTS
(1) H8261 KEYLESS CHUCK W/ INTEG. SK MT3
(1) H5930 4PC CENTER DRILL SET 60D
(4) H8256 PRIMROSE WATER SOLUBLE CUTTING OIL
(1) H7963 PRECISION LONG NOSE LIVE CENTER MT3

More Grizzly Tools - Order #2
(1) G5704 Parting Tool Holder - Series 200
(2) H4268 M2 HSS Cut-Off Blades - 3/32" x 5/8" x 5"
(1) G8789 Carbide Inserts - Lg. 80° Diamond
(1) H2682 Master Machinist's Level - 8" x .0005" Per 10"

More Grizzly Tools - Order #3
(1) G8789 Carbide Inserts - Lg. 80° Diamond
(1) G7033 Internal Threading Tool Holder
(1) G7042 Carbide Insert for Steel, LH - For use w/ G7033
(1) G9777 Carbide-Tipped Tool Bit Sets - 1/2" 20 pc.
(2) G5700 Turning/Boring Holder - Series 200
(1) G7034 Turning Tool Holder w/ Triangular Insert - Right Hand
(1) G7043 Carbide Insert for Steel, RH - For use w/ G7034

Scott...
 
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Welcome

Hey Scott welcome,
I just got a new lathe a couple months back myself -great fun. Your at the right place for help! Everyone here at BC has gotten me up to speed and saved me a lot problems.
I think your set-up and build would make for a great read here, plenty of pics, plz!
have fun!
joe :)
 
Why do I get the feeling that your new lathe comes from the same factory as the Grizzly? It sure looks like you would be hard put to do better at that price.

That lathe will do every thing you could possibly want to do for barrel work and action work that you could possibly do with a lathe. Next stop will be a mill.
 
Why do I get the feeling that your new lathe comes from the same factory as the Grizzly? It sure looks like you would be hard put to do better at that price.

That lathe will do every thing you could possibly want to do for barrel work and action work that you could possibly do with a lathe. Next stop will be a mill.

Al,

from what I can tell, this is the EXACT same lathe as the Grizzly G9036. Except for a few cosmetic features, and that mine will have a 3HP motor (vs 2 with a grizzly) DRO, QCTP and Taper attachment for the same price as the griz.

Scott...
 
Ur rolling now! That is a nice lathe. You won't out grow it for gunsmith work. You can make yourself some tooling to use for chambering, crowning, and receiver truing and build your skills at the same time.

Congratulations from another import gear head owner. Good choice.

Fitch
 
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I've got a used Taiwan 12 X 36 made about 1993 and have been looking at the PM 1440. I'd like to stay in that range due to the D1-4 chucks and plates I have. I'll be really interest in hearing your opinion of the lathe after you've had the opportunity to wring it out a bit.

My shop is in a business park and has a 10 foot wide roll up door. I'd probably need liftgate service as well. How'd you move yours into position after it came off the truck? I don't have a forklift.
 
I've got a used Taiwan 12 X 36 made about 1993 and have been looking at the PM 1440. I'd like to stay in that range due to the D1-4 chucks and plates I have. I'll be really interest in hearing your opinion of the lathe after you've had the opportunity to wring it out a bit.

My shop is in a business park and has a 10 foot wide roll up door. I'd probably need liftgate service as well. How'd you move yours into position after it came off the truck? I don't have a forklift.

If you guys don't mind, i can add how i handled my lathe. Mine was delivered by an 18 wheeler, suppose to have been a lift gate. The driver said he could bring it back in a few days in a lift gate but it was going to be an additional cost.

Me i have been waiting for about 15 years on a nice lathe, no way he was leaving with it, lol. I had 2 nice 10' slick planks, backed up my pick-up, planked into the back of the 18 wheeler, the driver used his palate jack to get the crate about 1/3 way on the 2 boards. I poured a little oil on the boards and the crate slid right into the back of my pickup, off the road and into the driveway and under an a-frame i had. Removed the crate and hoisted the lathe -set it on the back of a garden wagon i had. Rolled the wagon with lathe where i needed it. Almost there, lol. Went to Auto Zone and bought a engine crane $240 bucks. I used the engine crane to lift my lathe and set it on the lathe stand. I had to go into the stand at an angle to miss the legs but it fit with about a 1/2 to spare..

My lathe weighted about #1000. The wagon was strained -the engine crane wanted more, lol. Didn't mean to be so long winded but maybe there is a piece or 2 in here you can use. joe:)
 
moving new LATHE

I just rented the engine hoist from the local rental shop. Bigger hoist (could handle up to 2500 lbs) larger arm to get a good centering lift no sense in twisting the bed of a new lathe now. If they show up with lift gate rent some power jacks ( comes with WHEELS) one for each end and move it to where ever you want easily.:):)
 
why all new lathe look alike

The only people that are currently doing most of the casting of lathes are the Chinese therefore they all look alike ( well very close anyway ) even the so called American lathe (Imported from China or Taiwan). Just check the fit; level and fire that baby up and start making chips. Make your self a a spider for the backside and then a spider chuck for the front. Then a high pressure flushing system for chambering and you will be in debit like the rest of us.LOL:D

PS and don't forget the bore scope.:eek:
 
I made this lathe handling tool which I call my "stacking swivel":

STKSWVL3.jpg


which fits in the bed here

STKSWVL4.jpg


like this:

STKSWVL5.jpg


The "eye" is made of 5/8" cold rolled. The flat piece rests down between the ways on the cross members in the bed casting. The pieces of pipe keep the flat piece from sliding and the lathe from tilting. The piece of 1-1/5" hot rolled scrap stock was milled a bit flat on the ends which prevents it from turning and fits up under the bed like this held in place by a nut.

STKSWVL6.jpg


I've moved my lathe with this thing 5 times, by myself, with my engine hoist, including putting it in the back of a truck and on a flat bed trailer to be hauled across the country (CA to PA). It works great. The lathe is under perfect control all the time, it can be moved with remarkable precision with an engine hoist, and it is safer and more controlled than straps and other make do measures.

Fitch
 
Fitch,

If you just lived next door to me, I'd have to get you to loan me that thing! That looks cool!

Anyone know where to get those lifting straps that you use with an engine hoist, and what you call them?

Scott...
 
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Lathe

I bought an almost identical lathe locally (Memphis, TN) last year. I have rebarrelled a couple rifles with good results. I am not a gunsmith or machinist.
I had a smaller lathe several years ago and learned some thing then and I have read and watched Gordy's video.

I have made some tooling and spent a lot of enjoyable time.

I have a question for our machinist/experts.

My lathe has a coolant system. They recommend a mixture of water and coolant.

I am considering changing to an oil based coolant.

Any suggestions or advise - yes or no ?


Thanks,
 
I
My lathe has a coolant system. They recommend a mixture of water and coolant.

I am considering changing to an oil based coolant.

Any suggestions or advise - yes or no ?


Thanks,
Check with some of your local gasoline/oil distributors, Shell, Exxon/Mobil, Texaco, etc. What you are looking for is something they keep in stock and you can buy in smaller containers, like 5 gallon pails.


All the major petroleum companies make metal cutting oils that are suitable. Choose one of the GP (General Purpose) products. Get one of a thinner weight since your lathe recommends water based. Any of the GP's will work.

You will have a bigger mess on your lathe but it will an oil will give you better finishes and will be better overall for the lathe itself. Water solubles tend to get really sticky and gum up moving parts as it dries out.

One point on cleaning your lathe or any machine tool, do not use compressed air. Wipe things down with shop towels. Using compressed air will force very fine metal "fines" into places it shouldn't be.
 
One point on cleaning your lathe or any machine tool, do not use compressed air. Wipe things down with shop towels. Using compressed air will force very fine metal "fines" into places it shouldn't be.


I thought that was the only reason for owning a shop-vac.........Don
 
I made this lathe handling tool which I call my "stacking swivel":


Are you not concerned about "bending" or twisting the ways with this lifting device. It's just me, but I'd never lift my lathe from the center like that. Or am I missing something here?
 
Are you not concerned about "bending" or twisting the ways with this lifting device. It's just me, but I'd never lift my lathe from the center like that. Or am I missing something here?

Not concerned about that at all. This is the pickup point recommended in the lathe manual. They don't say exactly how to do it, but this is the place. It works great.

The lathe bed is so stiff it really doesn't move perceptably when it is picked up. The lathe bed is quite deep for the sake of rigidity. It makes a cast iron deep beam - it isn't going anyplace picking up an 1,100 lb lathe. Lathe beds are designed for rigidity, as a result their strength is way more than required to support their weight. I'm only picking up the lathe, not the lathe and bench.

Fitch
 
Machinery Riggers Do Something Similar

Not concerned about that at all. This is the pickup point recommended in the lathe manual. They don't say exactly how to do it, but this is the place. It works great.

Fitch

I've seen machinery riggers use a similar lifting rig... really just a bar under the web bracing with the sling around it. Clausing-Colchester drilled and tapped a 1"X8 TPI hole in the web brace of my lathe. Just screw in the eye and lift all 3,300 pounds. It is very convenient.

Dave
 

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Ok, I received the lathe. Unfortunately there was quite a bit of damage in transit, so I'll have to work with Matt to get that resolved. I have no doubt he will take care of me.

The lathe is pretty nice. Havent gotten a chance to fire it up yet, but at least I have it setting on the stands. Wow, had no idea how difficult lifting this was going to be!

I have posted a few pictures of what it looks like so far. Not much to look at yet. One tip. Notice in the picture that I have 1 big strap lifting the lathe. I was never able to find a perfect center spot on the lathe to lift it. Since it was a little tailstock heavy it wanted to drop on that end. I added a motorcycle tie down looped over the tail stock and tightened it up just enough to ballance the lathe. Worked like a champ!
 

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I have had a PM1236 with DRO for $4k on order since March 10.
It should arrive May 8.
It is on a slow boat from China.

I am getting ready to roll it into the shop and move it around.
I can crab a big lathe around the shop with a pry bar, but at one inch per minute full speed.

I have bought some casters from Caster City for the expected PM1236 lathe

Swivel Caster - Gray Iron Wheel - Model 3
Product Code: 3CL3x1-1/4-S
[Wheel Brake: - None]
[Lube Axle to Grease Wheel: - None]
Qty: 4 @ $9.15 = $36.60

Caster Model 3 Discount
Product Code: DSC
Qty: 1 @ ($1.83) = ($1.83)

Order Totals:

Subtotal: $34.77
Shipping: $12.79
Order Total: $47.56

I had a 1200 pound lathe tip over on me a couple years ago, and I am not going to let that happen to me again. I like a wide foot print, so the lathe is not tippy.
 

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