Kroil?

T

TrxR

New member
Anyone here use Kroil in your cleaning routine?

If so how?

I was thinking a wet patch of kroil let it sit for a couple minutes than some good passes with a nylon brush.

Follow that with a couple dry patches than my regular bore cleaner ( boretech rimfire blend for my rimfire and eliminator for center fire)

Any problems with this? Also what oil do you use in the bore if the rifle is going to sit for a while?

Thanks.
 
IMO Kroil is an absolute MUST HAVE........ I keep a liddle vial in my loading kits and a big can in my reloading room. Every now and then I pump a squirt into the garbage can, or into my primer bucket, or even sprinkle the floor :)

Back in the 80's 50/50 Shooters Choice and Kroil was IT, and I'll never get over the ambiance of that time. Waylon walkin' that git'tar loud, Kroil in the air, just add the smell of burning gunpowder and I'm in heaven
 
Al.......

If I may suggest..........just one more thing.

Add an old rag(aka back of an old discarded t-shirt), that is used for various gun cleaning chores over the years/decades......now black in color. A major portion of that black color is.........."old formula" Hoppe's #9.......the GOOD stuff. Nirvana!!!:eek:

Kevin
 
Kevin Gullette said:
If I may suggest..........just one more thing.

Add an old rag(aka back of an old discarded t-shirt), that is used for various gun cleaning chores over the years/decades......now black in color. A major portion of that black color is.........."old formula" Hoppe's #9.......the GOOD stuff. Nirvana!!!:eek:

Kevin
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LOL!

Yup, I bought a pint container of Hoppe's #9 before they changed (late 90"s??) only use it for ambiance and for wiping down customer's guns.

It is still my go-to though for removing rust spot on bluing. I use it with a pad of 0000 steel wool, then drop the pad of steel wool into my neckturning cake pan :)
 
Yeah......I think it was the nitrobenzene that put a twist in OSHA's(?) shorts.

I liked the old small bottles that you'd get in the old metal boxed Hoppes gun cleaning kits. Actually.......I don't think I've ever thrown any of the little bottles away......keep refilling 'em.

All this probably has something to do with hanging on to very old(over 50 years ago) memories.....of basement gun cleaning sessions with my uncle Jerry Don, after hunting/shooting escapades in rural Caddo county Oklahoma.........back in my early teens.

Gotta remember/appreciate where I come from.....:)

Kevin
 
I have a qt. bottle of the old Hoppes#9 still in the box. I open it from time to time to have a smell. It is one thing that will bring back fond memories.
 
Butch Lambert said:
I have a qt. bottle of the old Hoppes#9 still in the box. I open it from time to time to have a smell. It is one thing that will bring back fond memories.
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It sure does. After it was changed I found a gallon at a gun show. That lasted me for years. When I moved a couple of years ago I still had about a cup left. I had a lot of SH.T ,stuff to move and through it out. Should have kept a small bottle.
 
Hoppes

I remember when I was a kid, my dad would have his old swift across his legs running a patch with Hoppes no. 9 down the barrel. Man it smelled good. Doug
 
TrxR said:
Anyone here use Kroil in your cleaning routine?

If so how?

I was thinking a wet patch of kroil let it sit for a couple minutes than some good passes with a nylon brush.

Follow that with a couple dry patches than my regular bore cleaner ( boretech rimfire blend for my rimfire and eliminator for center fire)

Any problems with this? Also what oil do you use in the bore if the rifle is going to sit for a while?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Don't see a reason to oil a SS bore. Normally I'd run a loose patch with some of that Hoppes oil on it and store it muzzle down or put a wad of Kleenex or a chamber plug in the chamber end.
 
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Butch Lambert said:
I have a qt. bottle of the old Hoppes#9 still in the box. I open it from time to time to have a smell. It is one thing that will bring back fond memories.
Click to expand...

Cain't stand the smell/aroma of it. Not for everyone I guess. I know nitromethane is pretty much useless as a bore cleaner.
 
some day you may discover a fact.
ss can oxidize.
antelopedundee said:
Don't see a reason to oil a SS bore. Normally I'd run a loose patch with some of that Hoppes oil on it and store it muzzle down or put a wad of Kleenex or a chamber patch in the chamber end.
Click to expand...
 
retired said:
some day you may discover a fact.
ss can oxidize.
Click to expand...

Have you ever seen it on the exterior surface of a SS rifle?

The Nosler site mentions it in the context that an oiled bore takes a scosch longer to foul.

A course SS will rust if exposed to something like muriatic acid, salt water etc.
 
TrxR said:
Anyone here use Kroil in your cleaning routine?

If so how?

I was thinking a wet patch of kroil let it sit for a couple minutes than some good passes with a nylon brush.

Follow that with a couple dry patches than my regular bore cleaner ( boretech rimfire blend for my rimfire and eliminator for center fire)

Any problems with this? Also what oil do you use in the bore if the rifle is going to sit for a while?

Thanks.
Click to expand...



Does it work for you?


Glenn
 
I don't have Kroil, but I have Liquid Wrench, which is likewise a penetrating oil. If I have stubborn carbon in the corners that WipeOut is not getting, I do some wet patches with it, with a wait in between - sometimes overnight.

The Remington bore cleaner that you have to shake up really gets the carbon out. It's less messy than J-B paste and seems to be quite effective.
 
i oil mine, so no i have not.

antelopedundee said:
Have you ever seen it on the exterior surface of a SS rifle?

The Nosler site mentions it in the context that an oiled bore takes a scosch longer to foul.

A course SS will rust if exposed to something like muriatic acid, salt water etc.
Click to expand...
 
vtmarmot said:
I don't have Kroil, but I have Liquid Wrench, which is likewise a penetrating oil. If I have stubborn carbon in the corners that WipeOut is not getting, I do some wet patches with it, with a wait in between - sometimes overnight.

The Remington bore cleaner that you have to shake up really gets the carbon out. It's less messy than J-B paste and seems to be quite effective.
Click to expand...

That's the old Gold Medallion formula that Remington bought up. I usually just put a needle eye jag on the rod and have a patch in it. Shake it up and put a few drops on the patch and pull it back n forth [with a rod guide in place of course] several times. I usually ran a dry patch before running more bore cleaner. Not messy at all. Put a catch bucket under the muzzle end to catch any drips. I suppose you could replace the needle eye jag with a patch wrapped around a nylon brush.
 
I love Kroil. It seems to creep between the barrel and lead fouling, in particular. It's also amazing for casting. Molds lubed with Kroil throw good articles the first time, so no need to clean before casting. I use it anywhere a penetrating oil, lead remover, or mold preservative is required.

GsT
 
These methods of cleaning y'all mention are pretty good but if the barrel coppers, it's gonna do it first shot after cleaning. OK if you're cleaning a hunting barrel but if you're cleaning a competition barrel and find copper...you need to begin saving for a new barrel. Never mind about those young'uns that need clothes and their teeth fixed...a new barrel has precedence. While the price of pinto beans has increased unbelievably, they're still relatively cheap.

AND...to some extent, I'm not trying to be funny here.
 
Wilbur said:
These methods of cleaning y'all mention are pretty good but if the barrel coppers, it's gonna do it first shot after cleaning. OK if you're cleaning a hunting barrel but if you're cleaning a competition barrel and find copper...you need to begin saving for a new barrel. Never mind about those young'uns that need clothes and their teeth fixed...a new barrel has precedence. While the price of pinto beans has increased unbelievably, they're still relatively cheap.

AND...to some extent, I'm not trying to be funny here.
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Which is why I don't worry so much anymore about gettin all the copper out of a huntin barrel. It actually lubes the barrel, no? Seems to me that I recall that barrel bores are copper plated before being button rifled; or is that not correct?
 
Wilbur said:
These methods of cleaning y'all mention are pretty good but if the barrel coppers, it's gonna do it first shot after cleaning. OK if you're cleaning a hunting barrel but if you're cleaning a competition barrel and find copper...you need to begin saving for a new barrel. Never mind about those young'uns that need clothes and their teeth fixed...a new barrel has precedence. While the price of pinto beans has increased unbelievably, they're still relatively cheap.

AND...to some extent, I'm not trying to be funny here.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna' disagree with Wilbur here

(yeahh, I know)



AND...to some extent, I'm trying to be funny here




I AGREE with Wilbur, but..... IMO there are two kinds of "coppering"




I'm going to mention a kind of coppering that (again, IMO) doesn't require chucking the barrel into the circular file.




Sometimes when we barrel a rifle we create some tiny smears or burrs where the chambering reamer shears off the lands along the slope of the leade, I have some thoughts about WHY this happens, and how to prevent it, and even how to get rid of it mechanically, but I digress. It DOES happen. And when it happens a copper shine can occur in the first and last 2-4 inches of the barrel, but not in the middle. And I believe that most of the time you can "fix" this coppering phenomenon by shooting/cleaning/shooting/cleaning/shooting 3 to 5 to even 10-15 rounds and IF IT QUITS COPPERING......... it's fixed.


forever.


Well, for the life of the barrel anyways.




love you Wilbur, I love the way you think.... even when we fight :)
 
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