Gun smith says for sure I have sever throat
- Thread starter Worker
- Start date
V
VarmintGuy
Guest
Worker: The 6mm/284 is a NOTORIOUS throat eater!
NO if's, and's or but's about that.
That fact is one reason I went with the 6mm Remington Ackley Improved instead of the 6mm/284.
Back to your Rifle and your question - I absolutely abhor having to re-barrel my factory/hybrid and custom Rifles, anymore!
It's SO incredibly expensive!
I hope YOUR Rifle gets many hundreds of more rounds down it before your accuracy changes for the worse.
I have a pre-64 Winchester Model 70 Varmint in caliber 243 Winchester - I bought this Rifle from an estate of a dead man and got the Rifle for a song as the barrel was "shot out" (no rifling at all for over and inch down the barrel then it slowly appeared and became well defined but not sharp).
More rounded than square were the edges of the rifling.
Along with the Rifle came the original owners loading notes including number of shots fired at each range session and target group sizes - it was a small BOOK!
Anyway I fully intended to have it re-barreled with a custom barrel ASAP.
On a "lark" I took it to the range though and shot it before I was to render it to the Riflesmith.
It shot a 5 shot group under 1/2" there at 100 yards with an older Leupold 6x18 scope attached!
The ammunition I used was for another 243 of mine and I decided heck I will load up some bullets for this Rifle specifically.
It shot the new handloads SO well that I decided that this Rifle would be my long range Prairie Dog gun and who cares if the barrel gets "warm" - I am soon gonna have to replace it anyway.
That plan came into my mind about 15 years ago now!
The Rifle is still shooting quite well to this day, thank you, and the barrel is still the same one that came on that Rifle more than 45 years ago!
There are so many factors that contribute to and detract from a Rifles accuracy - I have noticed on many occassions that significant bullet jump to the leades of the rifling and/or a worn barrel does not "automatically" constitute inaccuracy in a particular Rifle!
Best of luck to ya with the "big 6"!
If you do at some point down the road decide to re-barrel your Rifle consider the 6mm Remington Ackley Improved.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy
NO if's, and's or but's about that.
That fact is one reason I went with the 6mm Remington Ackley Improved instead of the 6mm/284.
Back to your Rifle and your question - I absolutely abhor having to re-barrel my factory/hybrid and custom Rifles, anymore!
It's SO incredibly expensive!
I hope YOUR Rifle gets many hundreds of more rounds down it before your accuracy changes for the worse.
I have a pre-64 Winchester Model 70 Varmint in caliber 243 Winchester - I bought this Rifle from an estate of a dead man and got the Rifle for a song as the barrel was "shot out" (no rifling at all for over and inch down the barrel then it slowly appeared and became well defined but not sharp).
More rounded than square were the edges of the rifling.
Along with the Rifle came the original owners loading notes including number of shots fired at each range session and target group sizes - it was a small BOOK!
Anyway I fully intended to have it re-barreled with a custom barrel ASAP.
On a "lark" I took it to the range though and shot it before I was to render it to the Riflesmith.
It shot a 5 shot group under 1/2" there at 100 yards with an older Leupold 6x18 scope attached!
The ammunition I used was for another 243 of mine and I decided heck I will load up some bullets for this Rifle specifically.
It shot the new handloads SO well that I decided that this Rifle would be my long range Prairie Dog gun and who cares if the barrel gets "warm" - I am soon gonna have to replace it anyway.
That plan came into my mind about 15 years ago now!
The Rifle is still shooting quite well to this day, thank you, and the barrel is still the same one that came on that Rifle more than 45 years ago!
There are so many factors that contribute to and detract from a Rifles accuracy - I have noticed on many occassions that significant bullet jump to the leades of the rifling and/or a worn barrel does not "automatically" constitute inaccuracy in a particular Rifle!
Best of luck to ya with the "big 6"!
If you do at some point down the road decide to re-barrel your Rifle consider the 6mm Remington Ackley Improved.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy
F
f d shuster
Guest
Throat erosion
Worker: Of all the barrels I've burned out since 1992 ( 20 replacements since), they all started to show heavier copper fouling as they neared "the end", and would start to throw wild shots at ever-increasing times. One, a stainless 22-250 began key-holing ( a perfect side profile of the bullet) at a documented 2350 rds. fired. So, while I have no personal experience with a 6 or 6.5x284, the same criteria may apply as it did with my 22-250's, 243's, etc. What I'm getting at is: I think the barrel will start giving you clues as it nears the end. I've never had one that just quit, right now, it was always a gradual progression downhill. Keep shooting it as long as it meets your requirements. I think of barrels as a replaceable item, like primers,bullets & powder.
Worker: Of all the barrels I've burned out since 1992 ( 20 replacements since), they all started to show heavier copper fouling as they neared "the end", and would start to throw wild shots at ever-increasing times. One, a stainless 22-250 began key-holing ( a perfect side profile of the bullet) at a documented 2350 rds. fired. So, while I have no personal experience with a 6 or 6.5x284, the same criteria may apply as it did with my 22-250's, 243's, etc. What I'm getting at is: I think the barrel will start giving you clues as it nears the end. I've never had one that just quit, right now, it was always a gradual progression downhill. Keep shooting it as long as it meets your requirements. I think of barrels as a replaceable item, like primers,bullets & powder.
My experience has been the same as f d shuster reports. I have noticed though that when they finally go it seems to happen very quickly. If you plan to rebarrel when it does finally give up the ghost why not go ahead and purchase your barrel now, that way you have it on hand to give to your favorite gunsmith to fit and chamber. Also it helps ease the pain of laying out the money for the barrel and smith work at the same time.
For rifles I kow that I am going to keep long enough to need a rebarrel I have had two barrels fitted, I run one until it begins to lose its accuracy and then I screw the new one on.
Just a thought for you!
drover
For rifles I kow that I am going to keep long enough to need a rebarrel I have had two barrels fitted, I run one until it begins to lose its accuracy and then I screw the new one on.
Just a thought for you!
drover
F
f d shuster
Guest
Re-barreling
drover: I've developed the habit of buying my own new chambering reamer each time I'm having a new barrel blank installed. I just can't see spending $315 for barrel blank, plus the additional $$$$ for the threading and chambering, then telling the 'smith to use whatever reamer he may have available. I buy my own reamers (Pacific), cut to my specs: throat depth for the particular bullet intended, neck dia., chamber overall length, and floating pilot. Have not had reamer marks across the throat, as verified with my Hawkeye, so minimal break-in. Several of my chamberings, cut with the same reamer, back-to-back ( 2 of my 4 6BR's) use the same ammo. If it's a cartridge I have no future interest in ( there have been a few), I sell the reamer and get a good percentage of my reamer cost back. The new owner gets a top quality reamer that cut one chamber. My son and I recently had our 223's re-barreled & chambers cut, same reamer, so our ammo is also interchangable, and that reamer, and others are kept for replacement barrels. Just the way I do "things"/ works for me.
drover: I've developed the habit of buying my own new chambering reamer each time I'm having a new barrel blank installed. I just can't see spending $315 for barrel blank, plus the additional $$$$ for the threading and chambering, then telling the 'smith to use whatever reamer he may have available. I buy my own reamers (Pacific), cut to my specs: throat depth for the particular bullet intended, neck dia., chamber overall length, and floating pilot. Have not had reamer marks across the throat, as verified with my Hawkeye, so minimal break-in. Several of my chamberings, cut with the same reamer, back-to-back ( 2 of my 4 6BR's) use the same ammo. If it's a cartridge I have no future interest in ( there have been a few), I sell the reamer and get a good percentage of my reamer cost back. The new owner gets a top quality reamer that cut one chamber. My son and I recently had our 223's re-barreled & chambers cut, same reamer, so our ammo is also interchangable, and that reamer, and others are kept for replacement barrels. Just the way I do "things"/ works for me.
A HART bbl is on it now
Amazing how a bbl like a certain bullet over another.My Bbl is 26" 10 Twist It shoots 87gr V-Maxs ok but it really loves the 70 gr Nosler BT. I've shot 75gr V-Maxs and had terrible groups ( over 1"MOA) as where I shot many under 1/4 MOA with Noslers with a screaming hot load. 3,850+ FPS............ Varmint guy very interesting your comments about this 243 you purchased. Thanks guys. I know Sinclair has Bartlien bbls with 8" twist in stock. They're listed as heavy bench rest. Can they be turned down with out stressing the steel ?
Amazing how a bbl like a certain bullet over another.My Bbl is 26" 10 Twist It shoots 87gr V-Maxs ok but it really loves the 70 gr Nosler BT. I've shot 75gr V-Maxs and had terrible groups ( over 1"MOA) as where I shot many under 1/4 MOA with Noslers with a screaming hot load. 3,850+ FPS............ Varmint guy very interesting your comments about this 243 you purchased. Thanks guys. I know Sinclair has Bartlien bbls with 8" twist in stock. They're listed as heavy bench rest. Can they be turned down with out stressing the steel ?
B
Big Al
Guest
A really good barrel will keep it's top performance until they get fouled and then seem to take darn near forever to get clean. Once clean again the old accuracy is back, but not for long. The thing is with a warn barrel thy foul quicker.
C
caroby
Guest
And........
drover: I've developed the habit of buying my own new chambering reamer each time I'm having a new barrel blank installed. I just can't see spending $315 for barrel blank, plus the additional $$$$ for the threading and chambering, then telling the 'smith to use whatever reamer he may have available. I buy my own reamers (Pacific), cut to my specs: throat depth for the particular bullet intended, neck dia., chamber overall length, and floating pilot. Have not had reamer marks across the throat, as verified with my Hawkeye, so minimal break-in. Several of my chamberings, cut with the same reamer, back-to-back ( 2 of my 4 6BR's) use the same ammo. If it's a cartridge I have no future interest in ( there have been a few), I sell the reamer and get a good percentage of my reamer cost back. The new owner gets a top quality reamer that cut one chamber. My son and I recently had our 223's re-barreled & chambers cut, same reamer, so our ammo is also interchangable, and that reamer, and others are kept for replacement barrels. Just the way I do "things"/ works for me.
Nice posts Mr. Shuster.......... Having your own reamer is worth Every penny for your favorite chambering... Smiths like this too.
Most will never dull a reamer over a lifetime of chamberings.. That is if the reamer is handled properly and chambers are cut with appropriate cutting lubrication.
The OP has a chambering that make alot of cense to own ones own reamer.
the 6-284 throats get beat up real quick! Pretty fierce cartridge!
My experience has been the same as f d shuster reports. I have noticed though that when they finally go it seems to happen very quickly. If you plan to rebarrel when it does finally give up the ghost why not go ahead and purchase your barrel now, that way you have it on hand to give to your favorite gunsmith to fit and chamber. Also it helps ease the pain of laying out the money for the barrel and smith work at the same time.
For rifles I kow that I am going to keep long enough to need a rebarrel I have had two barrels fitted, I run one until it begins to lose its accuracy and then I screw the new one on.
Just a thought for you!
drover
Yes too....... And some Smiths will work you a deal for two exact chamberings... Money WELL spent...
cale