Glue or Screw or both?

TrxR

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Borden Rimrock BRM 30br short range for score benchrest build. Would you glue or do full bed with pillars or both? Also would you use a recoil lug or not? Im looking for pros and cons of each without considering weight. Im a little concerned with a glue in of the glue letting go durring a match.

Also what epoxy do they use for glue ins?

Thanks.
 
Borden Rimrock BRM 30br short range for score benchrest build. Would you glue or do full bed with pillars or both? Also would you use a recoil lug or not? Im looking for pros and cons of each without considering weight. Im a little concerned with a glue in of the glue letting go durring a match.

Also what epoxy do they use for glue ins?

Thanks.

Glue and screw is the way to go. I had a glue-in come apart at my house after experimenting with different load combinations, and I'll never own another rifle that is not G&S. You don't need a recoil lug. I'm pretty sure that the 3 most popular epoxies used are Devcon, Marine Tex and JB Weld, (not the industrial one).
 
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Borden Rimrock BRM 30br short range for score benchrest build. Would you glue or do full bed with pillars or both? Also would you use a recoil lug or not? Im looking for pros and cons of each without considering weight. Im a little concerned with a glue in of the glue letting go durring a match.

Also what epoxy do they use for glue ins?

Thanks.

I prefer glue and screw, particularly on a 30. Glue ins don't fail often but they do fail. Most people aren't lucky enough for it to happen at home, like Pag! If it were me, it would fail at the biggest match of the year, on the last target, with me leading. Lol! Something about a guy named Murphy.
 
Since this is a benchrest forum and we are talking about the smaller cartridges, PPC Beggs, etc. if the bedding is properly done and the proper gluing agent is used just gluing is sufficient.

But, if you are talking about a round action and you transport it in a car trunk un hot weather gluing, pillaring and screwing would be much more foolproof.

Since I use a flat surfaced bulky action, the Stoll Panda, of the 8 or so I have done I have never had one come loose.

There are no hard fast rules, just consider your situation, then do it.


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So what all are you using for the bedding and glue? I see Marine tex an jb weld mentioned. What about Devcon?
 
So what all are you using for the bedding and glue? I see Marine tex an jb weld mentioned. What about Devcon?

That what my main gunsmith uses for his bedding jobs. Totally forgot about that one.
 
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Apparently epoxies vary in their adhesive qualities. As I understand it, JB weld is very good in that department. I have one glue in that was bedded with Marine Tex and then glued with JB. I think that that is probably a good choice of materials. Another action that I have that is glued in is a Viper. It has a very coarse flycut on its bottom that probably doubles the area, and it is hard anodized, which makes for superior glue joint strength. It seems to be as solid as the day that it was done...thirty years later. I don't know what was used to bed it, but I was told that it was glued with epoxy that is used to secure the heads of golf clubs to their shafts. I believe the idea was to use something that is shock resistant.
 
What to bed and glue with? Several of the high strength epoxies will work. Most of the standard ones will work for the bedding and gluing.

BUT, especially if you are gluing a round action and carrying it in the trunk of a dark colored car in extremely hot weather it WILL come unglued.


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I only haul my rifles in the back seat of my truck in a hard case. Sometimes in the back of the truck .
 
I've been screwed only once

Dear TrxR, All of my actions except one in 30 years of shooting benchrest have been glued in and not screwed. I personally have had one action come unglued during a match. I have seen two others belonging to competitors come unglued. I have had success with both glued in and pillar bedded, screwed in only actions. I feel that glued in actions are easiest to do. I also feel that glued and screwed in actions are least likely to fail. Screwed in actions have a couple of benefits: easier to disassemble the rifle and to access the components; you can use that specific action as a final,and possibly more accurate, gauge when chambering a barrel for that action; ability to check the bedding for softening without a lot of trouble. Is a pillar bedded, screwed in action as precise as a glued in action? I don't know but I suspect it is. I don't know of any objective articles that have compared the two using the same action, barrel and loads under identical range conditions. That would be ideal but difficult to do. To me the benefits of a pillar bedded, screwed in action outweigh the supposed benefits of a glued in or screwed and glued in in action. I suspect there are many out there in benchrest land that disagree with me, question my sanity and shallowness of my gene pool. In the end here are my conclusions: If you want the safest bedding job by all means screw and glue in the action. If you have access to a lathe and do your own gunsmithing do what ever strikes your fancy. Otherwise you will probably get a glued in action with the proviso that it may come apart sometime.
As to what epoxy to use: JB weld with aluminum or steel seems to work well and is available. Epoxies with metal powder in them seem more popular nowadays. By the way, what does TxrR mean. I saw it and immediately Tyrannosaur Rex came to mind. Tim
 
Dear TrxR, All of my actions except one in 30 years of shooting benchrest have been glued in and not screwed. I personally have had one action come unglued during a match. I have seen two others belonging to competitors come unglued. I have had success with both glued in and pillar bedded, screwed in only actions. I feel that glued in actions are easiest to do. I also feel that glued and screwed in actions are least likely to fail. Screwed in actions have a couple of benefits: easier to disassemble the rifle and to access the components; you can use that specific action as a final,and possibly more accurate, gauge when chambering a barrel for that action; ability to check the bedding for softening without a lot of trouble. Is a pillar bedded, screwed in action as precise as a glued in action? I don't know but I suspect it is. I don't know of any objective articles that have compared the two using the same action, barrel and loads under identical range conditions. That would be ideal but difficult to do. To me the benefits of a pillar bedded, screwed in action outweigh the supposed benefits of a glued in or screwed and glued in in action. I suspect there are many out there in benchrest land that disagree with me, question my sanity and shallowness of my gene pool. In the end here are my conclusions: If you want the safest bedding job by all means screw and glue in the action. If you have access to a lathe and do your own gunsmithing do what ever strikes your fancy. Otherwise you will probably get a glued in action with the proviso that it may come apart sometime.
As to what epoxy to use: JB weld with aluminum or steel seems to work well and is available. Epoxies with metal powder in them seem more popular nowadays. By the way, what does TxrR mean. I saw it and immediately Tyrannosaur Rex came to mind. Tim


Thanks for the info. I think I will go will a pillar beded setup but glued in as well . That was the suggestion I got from Borden.

TrxR came from a 4 wheeler ive owned since i was 13 a 1987 honda TRX250R.
 
Thanks for the info. I think I will go will a pillar beded setup but glued in as well . That was the suggestion I got from Borden.

TrxR came from a 4 wheeler ive owned since i was 13 a 1987 honda TRX250R.

Friggin Doc beat me to it........ :)

I've got an '86 and an '88......... ain't nuttin ever been nor ever will be.....Rock On!

and may all 4 never touch the ground at the same time
 
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