Free Floating of the forarm is it absolutly essential

Worker

New member
Just received my re-barreled rifle from gun smith.I had a 26" Brux #4 contour installed on a Mod 70 Classic laminate stock. Gun smith didn't free float the barrel channel. Is it essential that be done even on a laminate stock ?
 
nope.

It will still shoot.

The barrel channel has nothing to do with it shooting, only with accuracy.

al
 
Thought Laminate stock resisted well weather changes

nope.

It will still shoot.

The barrel channel has nothing to do with it shooting, only with accuracy.

al
I want a 1/2 MOA rifle do I have to free float the forearm to achieve this ? Its not a bull bbl ,measures .670 at muzzle .
 
I want a 1/2 MOA rifle do I have to free float the forearm to achieve this ? Its not a bull bbl ,measures .670 at muzzle .
The Al is jerking your chain. By all means do the Free Floating and be done with it, lest you want to try a frontal tension project.

Clarence
 
Just received my re-barreled rifle from gun smith.I had a 26" Brux #4 contour installed on a Mod 70 Classic laminate stock. Gun smith didn't free float the barrel channel. Is it essential that be done even on a laminate stock ?

Yes, in the context of precision shooting.
 
Just because its laminate doesent mean it wont rub the barrel. My dad had a sako with a laminate stock that rubbed bad. Doug
 
Has the action been bedded? the reason that I ask is that in order to do a proper bedding job, the barrel has to be floated. If forend pressure is desired, for a light barrel, it can be done after the action is bedded. If your stock is as it came from the factory, not bedded, you may have some accuracy potential that has not been tapped. Due to the usual lack of fit of factory stocks to their actions, floating a barrel, without bedding the action, can actually cause a rifle to shoot worse. If you are going to float it, bed the action.
 
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I want a 1/2 MOA rifle do I have to free float the forearm to achieve this ? Its not a bull bbl ,measures .670 at muzzle .



IMO, yes, absolutely the barrel must be floated for a 1/2 MOA rifle. And to keep the POI from shifting day to day I feel pillar bedding using aluminum pillars is equally important.

Now, finding someone to install these AL pillars and do the bedding correctly???? Whewww, you're on your own there! I do my own, and the Bench Rest Gunsmiths who advertise here on this board would do you right, but the average gun plumber on the street corner? Maybe.....

A good bedding job, a REAL bedding job ain't cheap. It ain't cheap because it's time consuming. There are detailed instructions available on the web and elsewhere for doing it yourself.

My method uses three different kinds of epoxy..... but my rifles will easily AGG under 1/2 inch with small (.670) barrel.

Even when you bring your friends over to show them.

Guaranteed.

al
 
I had my rifle glass bedded(just slightly pass the recoil lug)by a gun smith I learned about from this forum. It was done when it had its original factory bbl.
 
Worker,
If its bedded to a point of the begining of the taper of the barrel, that's good. I think "that" portion of the barrel being supported would help relieve any stress imparted to the action (by barrel weight). Float from that point to the end of the stock. So, If it doesn't shoot to your expectations after this, try sliding a soft O-ring over the barrel pinched between the barrel & the fore-end tip of the stock, just to see if there is any improvement in accuracy. If not simply remove the O-ring, or play with the location or thickness, of the O-ring. Nothing permanently done to the rifle, & easily un-done. Think Sims vibration damper. Calumet
 
Well I floated it. Also learned on a Mod 70 there is a proper sequence in the tightening of the tang screws to make sure there are no high spots in the bedding. Well now my rifle is a shooter. I was able to shoot two groups under 1/2 MOA groups with Sierra 160 gr GK in front of 70grs of Re#25 producing 3200 FPS. So now I'm satisfied
 
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