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blagg
Guest
This is my first attempt at Electro Etch. I should have taken out of the stock as I missed part of the "A".
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blagg
Guest
Well its still a learning curve, but here are some of my mistakes. I use Ms Word on my computer, Pick a thick dark font about size 14. When you cut out the stencils, cut them out large enough to cover the head of the machine. Dwell time was just a couple of seconds. I did try it on a blued barrel with not very good results, yet! When developing the stencils in the liquid supplied follow instrucs. carefully. When using the sponge, you are wiping away the bluish stuff to leave a mesh where the print is. Sooo, if your etch is missing spots you probable didnt scrub it well enough while in the developer. I will try and get some more pics.
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blagg
Guest
Here is another, kinda blurry pic.
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mike in co
Guest
electro chem etch is pretty easy, and good on plain clean metal.
need room for the stencil and tool head...so yes on the bbl side best out of the stock.
very durable..its in the metal, not on it.
( we used it a bunch on salt water undersea stuff..lots of ss)
mike in co
need room for the stencil and tool head...so yes on the bbl side best out of the stock.
very durable..its in the metal, not on it.
( we used it a bunch on salt water undersea stuff..lots of ss)
mike in co
Does the system let you use any PostScript or True Type font?
I ask not because I want to do this, but because setting type is my business, and if it would be useful, can maybe help with sources of pretty good quality free fonts, and what to look for in letterforms.
* * *
As an aside, Microsoft Word is the program we all love to hate. For over 15 years now, it has become the standard for preparing manuscripts in the book world. Fortunately for me, that's my partners side of the business, but one thing I've picked up from him is the for 99.5 percent of tasks, Open Office is as good or better than Word, and is free. Like Word, OpenOffice is a suite of programs. It has been around a long time, and support is probably better than for Microsoft products.
http://www.openoffice.org/
* * *
None of the text editing programs (like Word) I'm aware of is what a typesetter would call a *layout* program, which lets you control the spacing of type. I'm not aware of any free layout programs, but again, if someone is interested, post here and I'll start looking. (Well, there is TeX, but unless you already know it, I'd skip that. Wonderful program, but the learning curve can me measured in months.)
I ask not because I want to do this, but because setting type is my business, and if it would be useful, can maybe help with sources of pretty good quality free fonts, and what to look for in letterforms.
* * *
As an aside, Microsoft Word is the program we all love to hate. For over 15 years now, it has become the standard for preparing manuscripts in the book world. Fortunately for me, that's my partners side of the business, but one thing I've picked up from him is the for 99.5 percent of tasks, Open Office is as good or better than Word, and is free. Like Word, OpenOffice is a suite of programs. It has been around a long time, and support is probably better than for Microsoft products.
http://www.openoffice.org/
* * *
None of the text editing programs (like Word) I'm aware of is what a typesetter would call a *layout* program, which lets you control the spacing of type. I'm not aware of any free layout programs, but again, if someone is interested, post here and I'll start looking. (Well, there is TeX, but unless you already know it, I'd skip that. Wonderful program, but the learning curve can me measured in months.)
B
blagg
Guest
Charles, I dont know what you just wrote as it was over my head. The kit comes with a transperency film that you print out your lettering on, in dark black. You then lay that over the film sheets they give you and put it in the lighted box for a couple of minutes. Then peel off the mylar backing from both sides and put it in this chemical developer stuff and lightly rub it with the supplied sponge, rinse, dry and cut out and your ready to use.
When you said you used MS Word, I assumed you were using "fonts." Another word for fonts is "type" or "letters," though a font is a lot more than a collection of letters
Where do you get the lettering? I'd assume from fronts.
Here are a couple links that have legitimate, free fonts. While most are free, there may be some that require paying, too, so if you want free, just make sure you have one of those. Whatever comes up when you first load the web page, there are different *categories* at the top of the site. (Or "styles" on the font squirrel site, off on the right.) Probably more suitable fonts than what just pops up.
You might want to look at "scripts," or the basic category, probably "serif fonts"
http://www.dafont.com/
These can be loaded ("installed" is the technical term) on your computer, then used to "print" something in any program that uses fonts.
Another good site is
http://www.fontsquirrel.com/
Again, make sure you pick a free one unless you want to pay.
Here is a font from Font Squirrel that I think has good capitals, and the lower case too is pretty nice.
http://www.fontsquirrel.com/fonts/espinosa-nova
or, for a different look,
http://www.fontsquirrel.com/fonts/brawler
or really different.
http://www.fontsquirrel.com/fonts/Ballpark
Which might or might not look good with etching. That's where the testing comes in -- will acid hold the fine lines in the letterforms, or does it need something robust like I've shown. etc.
Hope this helps, sorry to cloud the water if it doesn't
Where do you get the lettering? I'd assume from fronts.
Here are a couple links that have legitimate, free fonts. While most are free, there may be some that require paying, too, so if you want free, just make sure you have one of those. Whatever comes up when you first load the web page, there are different *categories* at the top of the site. (Or "styles" on the font squirrel site, off on the right.) Probably more suitable fonts than what just pops up.
You might want to look at "scripts," or the basic category, probably "serif fonts"
http://www.dafont.com/
These can be loaded ("installed" is the technical term) on your computer, then used to "print" something in any program that uses fonts.
Another good site is
http://www.fontsquirrel.com/
Again, make sure you pick a free one unless you want to pay.
Here is a font from Font Squirrel that I think has good capitals, and the lower case too is pretty nice.
http://www.fontsquirrel.com/fonts/espinosa-nova
or, for a different look,
http://www.fontsquirrel.com/fonts/brawler
or really different.
http://www.fontsquirrel.com/fonts/Ballpark
Which might or might not look good with etching. That's where the testing comes in -- will acid hold the fine lines in the letterforms, or does it need something robust like I've shown. etc.
Hope this helps, sorry to cloud the water if it doesn't
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eww1350
Guest
I currently use a Hermes engraving machine, but would like to try Electro Etching...where did you purchase the kit?
Eddie in Texas
B
blagg
Guest
B
blagg
Guest
Charles, I think bolder the better, but I have not tried it a bunch yet, too many guns to put together at the moment.
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Superman
Guest
I have quite a bit of experience with the etcho-matic machine and making stencils, if you guys need any help feel free to contact me. It's a great little unit for the price without all the frills of the $1k machines.
Blagg,
Use the Gator clip. Always take the gun out of the stock, the chemicals you're using for the etching will cause havoc if they run down in the stock, bedding, or are left on the bottom of the bbl from a drip. Tape the stencil onto the barrel and etch for at least 1 minute to gain .003" penetration. You can go up to .01 if you stay on there for 2 minutes. I like to tape the top side of the stencil, etch for 1 minute, wipe the carbon off the stencil with the cleaning solution on a paper towel then etch for 1 more minute.
These results are possible:
Blagg,
Use the Gator clip. Always take the gun out of the stock, the chemicals you're using for the etching will cause havoc if they run down in the stock, bedding, or are left on the bottom of the bbl from a drip. Tape the stencil onto the barrel and etch for at least 1 minute to gain .003" penetration. You can go up to .01 if you stay on there for 2 minutes. I like to tape the top side of the stencil, etch for 1 minute, wipe the carbon off the stencil with the cleaning solution on a paper towel then etch for 1 more minute.
These results are possible:
B
blagg
Guest
WOW I will try to leave it on longer, thats deep. Have you found a way to mark blued barrels? Yes I am using the inkjet printer.
B
blagg
Guest
Superman, when you say the Gator clip, are you talking the clip that has a diode in it that converts to DC?
S
Superman
Guest
Yes, that is correct, the diode. When etching, you need to be on bare uncoated metal.
seblambang
seb
I have quite a bit of experience with the etcho-matic machine and making stencils, if you guys need any help feel free to contact me. It's a great little unit for the price without all the frills of the $1k machines.
Blagg,
Use the Gator clip. Always take the gun out of the stock, the chemicals you're using for the etching will cause havoc if they run down in the stock, bedding, or are left on the bottom of the bbl from a drip. Tape the stencil onto the barrel and etch for at least 1 minute to gain .003" penetration. You can go up to .01 if you stay on there for 2 minutes. I like to tape the top side of the stencil, etch for 1 minute, wipe the carbon off the stencil with the cleaning solution on a paper towel then etch for 1 more minute.
These results are possible:
Superman,
It looks great!
Did you use this one on your barrel?.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/MATRONICS-E...0197?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=auc53ea935715
Or other brand/maker?
I've been wanting to buy one myself but still not sure which one...
Thanks you in advance,
seb.
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mike in co
Guest
even if not, that will set off a flurry of bids......
mike in co
mike in co