Eisen lathe upgrade help
- Thread starter Mram10
- Start date
M
mtngun
Guest
Replace the 4-way toolpost with a wedge-type quick-change toolpost.
Rather than buying every possible tool at once, just buy the particular tools needed to do the job you are working on at the moment, because when you first start out you may not even be sure what you need. As the years go buy you'll accumulate quite a few tools.
At a minimum you'll need a cut-off blade, at least one left hand turning bit or holder, an outside threading tool, and at least one boring bar.
I can't see where you are located. I buy a lot of tools and bits on ebay. Also Shars. There is a Hong Kong seller on ebay, "Bang Good," that has some good deals on lathe tools. But when it comes to drill bits and taps, I try to get American made because they seem less likely to break or chip.
Rather than buying every possible tool at once, just buy the particular tools needed to do the job you are working on at the moment, because when you first start out you may not even be sure what you need. As the years go buy you'll accumulate quite a few tools.
At a minimum you'll need a cut-off blade, at least one left hand turning bit or holder, an outside threading tool, and at least one boring bar.
I can't see where you are located. I buy a lot of tools and bits on ebay. Also Shars. There is a Hong Kong seller on ebay, "Bang Good," that has some good deals on lathe tools. But when it comes to drill bits and taps, I try to get American made because they seem less likely to break or chip.
http://www.penntoolco.com/960-612/?...Precision Level Series 960 - 960-612 | $452.7
This is what you should use if you can borrow one. What I used when I leveled my lathe and mill. Borrowed one from a friend who has a cnc shop. I would have used a lesser level if this hadn't been available. It's very hard to level a lathe or mill to that degree. .0006 isn't much over 12". Wayne
This is what you should use if you can borrow one. What I used when I leveled my lathe and mill. Borrowed one from a friend who has a cnc shop. I would have used a lesser level if this hadn't been available. It's very hard to level a lathe or mill to that degree. .0006 isn't much over 12". Wayne
martin zuck
Member
Pay more attention to any twist in the ways. A little off level won't hurt anything.
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Martin is correct. Left-right (longways) leviling isn't very important unless you are going to use the coolant tray and on-machine coolant pump. Twist (crossways) is more important especially if you want to make long turning cuts, like tapering or reducing barrel diameter. In total reality, leveling of an engine lathe for barrel fitting is no big deal if you are setting the lathe on something like an average concrete floor. If you would put a very precision laser alignment tool on the lathe you will see it moves, over time, constantly.
We once set a 228" Monarch lathe on a 36" reinforced foundation, put a $250,000 laser we use for steam turbine alignment, set for several days and watched that big lathe move.
So, get yourself something like a 12" machinist level and have at it. It will make you feel better!!
As to tool holders the Shars brand Aloris type tool post is as good as Aloris brand and at much less cost.
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Thanks guys. I’ll be threading and clambering barrel blanks at first, so not sure what I’ll need. My list as of now:
Cutting tool, threading tool, parting tool, 705 counterbore, reamer and post tool.
Will the shars bxa work for my lathe? Do I need more than 5 holders? Any xl holders?
As for leveling, I will have a machinist friend come over and help with the setup. Watched for a long time, but new to the hands on part.
Cutting tool, threading tool, parting tool, 705 counterbore, reamer and post tool.
Will the shars bxa work for my lathe? Do I need more than 5 holders? Any xl holders?
As for leveling, I will have a machinist friend come over and help with the setup. Watched for a long time, but new to the hands on part.
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jackie schmidt
New member
Congratulations. These are nice little lathes.
If you don't have a 3 or 6 jaw set true chuck, get one, definetly a great asset.
If you don't have a 3 or 6 jaw set true chuck, get one, definetly a great asset.
M
mtngun
Guest
A 705 counterbore would be sweet, and good economics if you chamber barrels for a living, but for occasional hobby work you can do like many of us hobbyists and simply bore the counterbore.
Some people use axa for 12" lathes and some people use bxa. I use the bxa and have no regrets. I have perhaps 60 - 70 holders and keep accumulating more as I accumulate more cutting tools. But don't try to buy everything at once, just enough to get started.
Some people use axa for 12" lathes and some people use bxa. I use the bxa and have no regrets. I have perhaps 60 - 70 holders and keep accumulating more as I accumulate more cutting tools. But don't try to buy everything at once, just enough to get started.
M
mtngun
Guest
Maybe someone has already mentioned it but you'll need an indicator or three, and stands.
My most frequently used indicator is a 0.030" Shars test indicator. I also have a long skinny Mitutoyo for reaching into barrels but that's about all I use it for. Test indicators are fragile hence the Shars for daily use -- if I drop it on the concrete floor it's not the end of the world.
A import set of .250 - .500 gage pins is not necessary, but sure come in handy for gunsmithing.
You'll need a way to measure threads. Thread wires are the cheapest way to get started but a pain to use. I eventually upgraded to import thread micrometers.
And of course a electronic 0-1" micrometer. A non-digital 1" - 2" micrometer for measuring barrel tenons. The Shars micrometers are usually decent, though some people look down on Asian measuring tools. My knock-around micrometer is a $30 electronic Harbor Freight (no longer offered). I have a better mic, but it doesn't get carried around in the shop where it is liable to be dropped on the concrete floor.
My most frequently used indicator is a 0.030" Shars test indicator. I also have a long skinny Mitutoyo for reaching into barrels but that's about all I use it for. Test indicators are fragile hence the Shars for daily use -- if I drop it on the concrete floor it's not the end of the world.
A import set of .250 - .500 gage pins is not necessary, but sure come in handy for gunsmithing.
You'll need a way to measure threads. Thread wires are the cheapest way to get started but a pain to use. I eventually upgraded to import thread micrometers.
And of course a electronic 0-1" micrometer. A non-digital 1" - 2" micrometer for measuring barrel tenons. The Shars micrometers are usually decent, though some people look down on Asian measuring tools. My knock-around micrometer is a $30 electronic Harbor Freight (no longer offered). I have a better mic, but it doesn't get carried around in the shop where it is liable to be dropped on the concrete floor.
GeneT
Active member
As someone else mentioned - get the stuff you need, as you need it. Everyone works a little different. I use a 4-jaw chuck all the time, some people will stand on their head to avoid using one. That said, if you need to get to some order minimum (say for free shipping) you can't go wrong buying more toolholders...
Do you have a bench grinder? I'm a strong believer that anyone owning a lathe should have a set of HSS bits in various sizes (probably 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" square and 1/4" and 3/8" round) HSS and know how to grind it. Being able to make your own cutters is very liberating.
The most important thing you can buy at this point is experience, and you pay for that with your time. Get some scrap, get some basic turning and threading tools (or better, grind your own) and start practicing. You'll want to get pretty confident before you start cutting on barrels - even "cheap" blanks aren't cheap!
GsT
Do you have a bench grinder? I'm a strong believer that anyone owning a lathe should have a set of HSS bits in various sizes (probably 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" square and 1/4" and 3/8" round) HSS and know how to grind it. Being able to make your own cutters is very liberating.
The most important thing you can buy at this point is experience, and you pay for that with your time. Get some scrap, get some basic turning and threading tools (or better, grind your own) and start practicing. You'll want to get pretty confident before you start cutting on barrels - even "cheap" blanks aren't cheap!
GsT
GeneT
Active member
You're really going to want some 3/8" HSS blanks - those 5/8" blanks will come in handy eventually, but when you're learning to grind your own tools they seem to take forever to grind. (OK, even after you've been doing it for years those big blanks just take a long time...)
GsT
GeneT
Active member
That's about the size of it for most uses. Technically a bigger piece offers some additional rigidity, but you're not really 'making time' so heavy cuts aren't much of a concern. I run a similar sized machine (a 14x40) and 3/8" makes up most of my stable, with some smaller bits for use in boring and internal threading.
GsT
