Does the Kiff bolt need truing?

A

AdamZx3

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Rather than trying to sleeve and true a Remington factory bolt, I was planning to bore the raceway and install a Kiff oversize bolt.

Would the lugs, boltface, etc.. need to be trued up like a factory bolt? (fresh action and rebarrel)

If so could I not use the GTR receiver truing collar to indicate the bolt since there will not be a handle installed (at that time)? *edit*, on second thought the bolt may not be long enough to do so :/
 
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Adam,
The long 700 PTG bolt I bought for a 284W. LR prone rifle fits very well after I trued the action in a GTR-style fixture. Accuracy at 1000yds. has been consistent & satisfying. IOW, I'd go the same route again in a heartbeat.
 
PTG Bolt

The PTG bolt doesn't need to be "trued". However, the bolt lugs will need to be fitted to the receiver after the receiver is trued depending on how much material is removed from the receiver lugs when truing. The bolt lugs are left over-length (front to rear) to allow for this. Vic
 
vlcakc said:
The PTG bolt doesn't need to be "trued". However, the bolt lugs will need to be fitted to the receiver after the receiver is trued depending on how much material is removed from the receiver lugs when truing. The bolt lugs are left over-length (front to rear) to allow for this. Vic
Click to expand...

I can understand if it's a barreled rifle, but if it's going to be re-barreled it shouldn't make a difference...correct?
 
AdamZx3,
A PT&G bolt's O/D is ground & available in .700",.702"&.705" diameter,with OEM Remington or SAKO extractor configurations to name a few options.
The bolt lugs are +.022" longer in length than an OEM Remington bolt body's lugs.
 
Oh ok....so I would need to take .022 of the front/back lugs to make it fit well?
 
The PT&G bolt lugs vary slightly in length-+.022" is the average.

Measure TWICE-cut ONCE.

721,722,700,78,40X,XP-100,XP-100R,Seven,600,660 bolt lugs measure .440" in length-fore/aft.

Grind/face PT&G lugs accordingly.
 
PTG Bolt

As Dans40X said, measure twice, cut once. On my PTG bolt the dimension from the front of the lug to the bolt face was very close to the same as the Remington bolt. The excess material for fitting was on the rear of the lug (where it contacts the lugs in the receiver). This will make sense if you think about it. For example, if you machine 0.005" off the receiver lugs to true them, then the PTG bolt lugs would need to be 0.005" longer than the factory bolt to maintain the same bolt/receiver relationship. Since Remington dimensions can vary quite a bit, you will need to measure very carefully to verify the correct amount of material to remove. Vic
 
Wouldn't I be able to measure from the front of the recoil lug to the new bolt lug face with a depth mic and make that my new tenon length? (essentially making the tenon aprox. .022" shorter than it would be compared to a factory bolt).

With the high startup cost of all the tooling, I just want to try and stay away from buying a bolt truing jig if I can.
 
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Here is the deal. There is material on the bolt lugs so that you can true the receiver and remove material from the lugs to maintain headspace if you aren’t changing or setting back the barrel. If you are setting back the barrel and re-chambering or installing a new barrel the extra material matters very little, you can deal with it several ways. The bolt handle is not attached to the bolt body, allowing more latitude in dealing with the lugs. If you have a lathe and not the skill to build your own bolt truing fixture you should not be attempting the work that you talk about. If you purchased someone’s receiver truing tooling that does not require that you have a lathe and are attempting this work because you do not have a lathe or know how to run one you should stop. Gunsmithing is not molecular biology; however it requires some basic mechanical understanding and a certain level of machining skill. Without those two things you are destined to fail. Do yourself a favor and send your work to someone that can assist you on the path to a properly prepared firearm.

Please play safe,
Nic.
 
Nic, I understand you concern. I have used the lathe in shop class, however I will have some help from my uncle who has his own machine shop. I consider myself very mechanicly handy, and have some machining skills, but for this project will be relying on my uncle to help get the close tolerances.

One thing is for sure if i'm not 110% positive on how to complete all the operations I won't be doing it myself.

Thanks,
Adam
 
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