Do You Keep Your Scope in the Rings When You Break a Barrel Loose?

M

MBrenner

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OK, still another "scope question." We benchresters often change barrels, even during a match. My rifles have Panda actions and I use a large T-handle inserted into the action to break loose a barrel as well as tighten the new barrel. My question is...do you keep your scope in the rings when you break a barrel loose, or do you remove and remount the scope afterwards?

I've been told that scopes are made to withstand rear-to-forward recoil, not to also withstand the sometimes quite sharp right-to-left side torque in breaking the barrel loose. Is it worth exposing a v-e-r-y expensive scope to such sideway torque and possible damage (such as point of impact failure)?

Your answers, please!
 
OK, still another "scope question." We benchresters often change barrels, even during a match. My rifles have Panda actions and I use a large T-handle inserted into the action to break loose a barrel as well as tighten the new barrel. My question is...do you keep your scope in the rings when you break a barrel loose, or do you remove and remount the scope afterwards?

I've been told that scopes are made to withstand rear-to-forward recoil, not to also withstand the sometimes quite sharp right-to-left side torque in breaking the barrel loose. Is it worth exposing a v-e-r-y expensive scope to such sideway torque and possible damage (such as point of impact failure)?

Your answers, please!

I've changed barrels many times in many of my bench rifles and never have taken any of my scopes off during changing them and never had any sort of scope issue.
 
Thanks, guys, for your early responses. By the way, my question was about removing or not removing scopes...not how tight I torques my barrels. On that score, I tighten all barrels to a "good firm" tightness, but never over torque them. I figure every bullet that goes down a barrel naturally torques it a little tighter anyway and I also don't want to struggle to loosen it later. I have seen guys give a T-handle a hard snap in both directions...not good juju to me.

But, I sure appreciate your good answers and may they continue!
 
I have a rifle similar to yours, only the action is a Viper. I use the T handle, rear entry wrench that Kelbly sells. When I tighten the barrel, I stand beside the butt stock with my hands flush with the ends of the T handle, and slowly tighten the barrel with as much force as I can muster using just the strength of my arms (flat footed, no body leaning). Even so, given that I use anti-seize on the threads and shoulder, I have never had any problem breaking a barrel free, with smoothly applied pressure in the opposite direction. For those who are prone to worry:
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension Chart for A307 Gr5 Gr8 Gr9.pdf
Of course the use of a lubricant would change the numbers, but I think that you get the idea.
 
Generally

I take the scope off my rifle during a barrel switch. It just eliminates the potential of bumping, dinging or otherwise clunking the scope in the process of switching barrels. I also use a muzzle cap(rubber) or tape over the muzzle to guard it against dings as I put the rifle into the vice...I screw the barrel on down to the shoulder by hand before I put the combo into the vice for final tightening. One persons way.
 
Yep...

With a Kodiak action with the scope rail, removing the scope with rings attached is a quick and simple task.
 
I think you guys have well answered my question. Bart, Boyd, JD, Virg, glp...the scope comes off tomorrow when I break loose a 30BR barrel to get a new crown. It's an expensive scope and "discretion is the better part of valor," or common sense says to take the scope off. Appreciate the replies. Cheers!!
 
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