Dial indicator rod info needed

R

REMY

Member
Hi guys, this would be for home gunsmithing and would like to ask you all what is the perfered lenght rod used ? Mainly for br to standard lenght cartridge, I've been in touch with JGS but they offer only 4 " long, would this be a standard size for general use such as doing a crown and standard size cartridge chambering ? Also appreciate if you could indicate a good source where to get them.

Thanks to all replays in advance, Remy
 
REMY said:
Hi guys, this would be for home gunsmithing and would like to ask you all what is the perfered lenght rod used ? Mainly for br to standard lenght cartridge, I've been in touch with JGS but they offer only 4 " long, would this be a standard size for general use such as doing a crown and standard size cartridge chambering ? Also appreciate if you could indicate a good source where to get them.

Thanks to all replays in advance, Remy
Click to expand...

There are at least two different kinds of rods you can use. You can use a "Gordy rod" which is typically 10-12" long and requires support from the tailstock chuck at the back end and is thinner than the bore for its full length, or you can get a "range rod" - which is the shorty you describe, which has a pilot and then a taper such that it is larger than bore diameter for part of its length. You can start a holy war by claiming one is better than the other. "Gordy rod"s are available from Grizzly.com, and IIRC PTG had them too. You've already found a good source for range rods. You'll also want a pilot set, regardless of the rod.

HTH,

GsT
 
Why the need I think a better apoach is the one Jackie Schmidt has shared. Basically to indicate both ends and then to taper bore the chamber to accept the chambering reamer and now you have three areas that are running perfectly true. If you do a search he has outlined how he goes about it and to why he does it this way. And then he goes on to explain how to check your own work after its done and why and well worth checking into as possibly being your better option before purchasing something you may not actually need.
 
Might also add I used this approach on the last barrel I did and when I went back to the muzzle to indicate and to mark where it was pointing up and some like it pointing down. This is done so when fitting the barrel to the action the muzzle would be pointing straight up as I have always done in the past. To my surprise when I went to indicate and to mark that exact spot on the muzzle it was still running dead true and it never had in the past when indicating in a barrel the way that I used to use. The muzzle would always be running out of true and the high spot would always have to be marked to be clocked up when being fitted to the action.
 
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