Cutting muzzle brake threads

[antelopedundee]

Is it possible to do an acceptable job cutting threads for a brake or silencer using a die like you'd use for pipe threads as it is doing it using a lathe? If not then how much would you need to disassemble a rifle in order to do it right?

 

[R.G. Robinett]

Is it possible to do an acceptable job cutting threads for a brake or silencer using a die like you'd use for pipe threads as it is doing it using a lathe? If not then how much would you need to disassemble a rifle in order to do it right?

Tom, this is not a good idea - call me. RG

 

[antelopedundee]

Tom, this is not a good idea - call me. RG

I was just curious. No plans for either thing right now. Does the barrel need to be pulled in order to do it right?

 

[rsmithsr]

YES..the threads need to be square to the bore.
often the brake is then line bored in place for desired clearence

 

[GeneT]

I was just curious. No plans for either thing right now. Does the barrel need to be pulled in order to do it right?

Depends on the lathe, the firearm, and how much work you're willing to put into it. On a bolt-action removing the trigger (and scope) is usually sufficient. I threaded a PTR-9 (MP-5 clone) a while back - the front handguard, sight, magazine well - all a fragile stamping that's welded onto a trunnion that's riveted to the barrel. I had to make a fake bolt on a stick with a brass center to engage the chamber and act as the drive dog. Way more work than it was worth, but it was kind of fun to do, and it was for my future son-in-law.

GsT

 

[MilGunsmith]

I do them at work all the time. It is easier if the barrel is off. If not doing the barreled action in a lathe with a spindle bore that allows the receiver to either be at outboard end or float inside the spindle. dial the bore in the same as chambering, I use my action truing fixture on the short barrels. The other method is to do in a steady rest with a cathead or Speedy's adjustable steady rest if the spindle bore is too small. Whatever method that you use, you need to ensure that the bore and the threads are parallel and concentric to each other to avoid baffle strikes.