Chamber reaming question

L

Lucky Shooter

Guest
I intend to ream a chamber using the methods described by Jackie Schmidt, Jerry Sharrett and others.

I have some questions on holding the reamer with tap wrenches.

Mike Bryant, I think, mentioned using a Sinclair case holder from a neck turning tool to allow the reamer to slip if it grabs.

#1 Is the reamer difficult to hold while chambering ?

#2 If the reamer grabs and slips, how do you back out of the situation ? I'm concerned about breaking the reamer.

Everything sounds good when all goes per the plan but I don't know what to expect in the way of exception conditions.

Would appreciate any words of wisdom.

A. Weldy
 
The Sinclair holder will slip out of your hand if the reamer binds and or you feed too much/fast. If using the longer tap handles you'll have to lock them up on the round portion of the reamer shank to allow some slip in the process.
 
Lucky Shooter said:
#1 Is the reamer difficult to hold while chambering ?

Probably less than 5 foot pounds of torque or less depending upon feed rate.

#2 If the reamer grabs and slips, how do you back out of the situation ?

Stop the lathe and reverse turn the reamer by hand, it will backout like reverse turning a screw.

A. Weldy
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Backing a reamer out

akshooter said:
absoluty not never back out your reamer unless you want to ruin it!!!!
Click to expand...

I'm not an expert but I know a cardinal rule with reamers is to never reverse them as the flutes will be damaged. They are designed to turn in one direction ONLY!
Chino69
 
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Thanks for the replies

We're getting down to my primary concerns.

I'm going to have to go off-line for a few days and would like to discuss this more in a few days.

A. Weldy
 
I use a handle about 4 inches long and it isn't that hard to hold on... if the reamer grabs 0 let it go.. I have not had a problem if the reamer enters the first part of the bored chamber before it starts cutting...

Rusty - you are bad....:D
 
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I hold reamers with a tap handle and push the tap handle with a Morse taper to Jacobs taper arbor in the tail stock.

For years I cleaned the reamer every ~.050" of cut depth with a tooth brush in a can of 1/2 gas 1/2 motor oil, and then moved it over to another can with Sulfured cutting oil and a tooth brush.

Both cans seemed to get filled with allot of chips.
Lately I have been partially dipping the reamer, with the tap T handle still on it, into a Venturi created by a reamer sized hole in the end of a vacuum cleaner hose.

This is cleaner and faster.

The reamer, late in chambering, gets kind of stuck. I tap on the tap handle with a little wrench, and then it slides out, with it's payload of chips.
 
Protecting the reamer

Thanks again for the replies. There has also been a lot of good info posted previously on this method of holding and pushing the reamer---including pictures.

My primary concern is how to protect the reamer if it does grab.

A. Weldy
 
Lucky Shooter said:
My primary concern is how to protect the reamer if it does grab.
Click to expand...

There has to be a certain amount of reamer slip in your holder/pusher process if it does grab. I've had the Sinclair Case holder spin out of my hand when I feed too much or too fast. Just my .02 worth.

William
 
Reamer Holder suggestions?

I've been having problems with misalignment on my chambers and am in need of a tool that will be consistent and durable. Don't mind paying a little extra. Any other suggestions would help. Anyone use DAVE MANSON FLOATING REAMER HOLDER? Bald Eagle Floating Reamer Holder looks promising as well.
Thanks Guys, This site is Fantastic.

Robert:)
 
I had a spare tap wrench which I shortened the handles so that they just missed the lathe bed if the reamer grabbed, I also made a plastic container which had a magnet (out of a scrap loudspeaker) fixed to the bottom, the container was then put on the crosslide. Put some paraffin in the container, while I blew the chamber out the reamer and wrench sits in the container the chips migrate on the bottom.
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
How do you set up? What is your procedure?
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I use the barrel in headstock/spindle method with a precision 6 jaw chuck, then come in with the TS - jacobs/reamer to chamber. I do my best to ensure the TS is lined up properly with the adj screws, (I know its crude) But its not consistent. Robert:)
 
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How are you indicating your bore? At what point(s) are you taking readings?
 
Crow99 said:
How are you indicating your bore? At what point(s) are you taking readings?
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I believe the problem was solved due to the T.S. grub screws were found loose..
Sigh. Always something overlooked & simple. Thanks Guys. :)
 
rmorr01 said:
I use the barrel in headstock/spindle method with a precision 6 jaw chuck, then come in with the TS - jacobs/reamer to chamber. I do my best to ensure the TS is lined up properly with the adj screws, (I know its crude) But its not consistent. Robert:)
Click to expand...

Do you hold the reamer in your Jacobs chuck in the tail stock?
 
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