thanks Hovis.
Come on guys
How much difference are we looking for?
Is it .5 moa, is it more, or less when you adjust jump to jam?
How about the same question with primers?
What have you seen?
thanks Don
I can't speak for everyone but I can tell you my process and what I look for.
I use bullet seating depth as a fine tuning method ONLY after I have found a powder charge that is working for the day. I should also mention that I never fine tune in dead calm conditions. I prefer a little breeze around 2 to 5 mph and steady if possible because I've found some seating depths might work wonders in calm conditions but fall apart in "match conditions" if you know what I mean.
So, after I find my charge, I change the seating depth of the bullet by +.005" if my starting load was way off the lands or I will change it -.005" if the start load was jammed into the riflings. I suppose you could go in .002" increments or smaller but I have found that carbon residue and copper fouling can override this small of a change and give mixed results or tamper with the final data. You could clean the gun after every group but I like to see what the barrel will do when it's fouled because 99% of your shots are going to come from a barrel with at least a little bit of copper and carbon in it. And besides, I might need to find the best load quickly and .005" increments covers more ground in a small time.
Anyhow, I shoot three shot groups changing the seating depth incrementally until the group is putting three bullets at least 3/4 of the way into each other at 100 yards. When the tune is at it's farthest point away from optimum, three bullets might not even touch at 100 yards or they will form a triangular group with only the very slightest edge of each hole making contact with the other two shots. Of course, a hummer barrel might put them 1/2 the way into each other at it's most out of tune so it's hard to give you a concrete number. It's all dependent on the barrel itself. Some are not fussy with seating depth and will shoot anything you throw together and others need the "X" load and won't like much else.
Another thing I might throw in; you will usually have two places where the bullet shoots well. One off the lands and one in somewhat. So if you have the time, it might be worthwhile finding them both and comparing them against each other. This will, of course, require you to run the full ladder of increments from top to bottom to achieve it, but we're only talking three bullets times each .005" increment in a .040 to .050" measurement (.020" jam to .030" off).
The downside to the barrels that prefer lots of "jam" is that it makes it hard to extract a loaded round from the chamber if you can't clear by firing. The bullet is stuck and you'll have powder all over inside your receiver. That's why I have been liking the boat tail design. In my experience, they seem to prefer a little less jam than flat base bullets and a lighter load at that. But then again, every barrel is different.
Then once you start seeing good improvement in the group, shoot it a few times with five shot groups using sighters just like you would in a match. If it holds together for an aggregate, you have a tuned rifle ready to go.
As for primers, I believe a good load can be worked up around any primer so pick one and go for it. Just don't try to substitute one for another especially during a match! You will not like the results.