Brownells AcraGlas by wt ???

A

alinwa

oft dis'd member
I want to measure/mix acraglas by wt.

I've just come off a disturbing series of phone calls wherein I was informed in no uncertain terms that "it couldn't be done and why would you WANT to anyways?" (Our goofy liddle measuring cups are THE WAY IT'S DONE you silly git...)

I've weighed measured portions and far as I can see 4/1 by wt is fine but the new literature warns in bold "don't do it!"

They weren't at all happy with the thought of me calling the epoxy supplier and wouldn't call them for me.........


Anyone???

al
 
Al

Why the rant? If you want to mix by weight, and it works, just do it.

Now, having said that, are you sure that what they (Brownells I assume) say is not correct? Todays chemistry produces some very unusual results. Mixing a quart of A with a quart of B results in, wait for it, a quart of AB! Five cups of water does not occupy the same space as five cups of liquid polyester resin! Go figure?

And, I like their little bitty cups. ;)

Ray
 
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Cheechako said:
Al

Why the rant? If you want to mix by weight, and it works, just do it.

Now, having said that, are you sure that what they (Brownells I assume) say is not correct? Todays chemistry produces some very unusual results. Mixing a quart of A with a quart of B results in, wait for it, a quart of AB! Five cups of water does not occupy the same space as five cups of liquid polyester resin! Go figure?

And, I like their little bitty cups. ;)

Ray
Click to expand...

And Al, don't forget that the 2 parts may well have a radically different specific gravity,i.e.- weighing them 4-1 will not yeold the same volumes at 4-1 volumetric mix. That said, if you can afford to experiment with the stuff, why not?
 
For many years I just estimated a couple of big gobs on a mixing pad... and it worked...

Now when the quantity is small I place the mixing pad on a scale, record the weight, add resin, record the weight, add the same amount of hardener and mix it well... it works just fine. This is with their gel epoxy.

With the liquid epoxy I have just eyeballed it in the mixing cup for the last 40 years... a couple of times I wished I had been closer on the mix but I hardly use the liquid any more... too much hardener is worse than too little. Too much and it doesn't harden, a little under takes longer.
 
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I use acraglas for just a few specific applications..... I drill holes around AL pillars and inject the stuff with a bulb pipette for instance. Timing and temp are very pertinent to my usage.

I use it to fill the holes when I install forend sling swivel backing plates.

I use it to inject long runs of allthread reinforcing rod......... in fact I almost always inject it or run it under pressure. Or spray or brush it.

I've never bedded a gun with it.

I've been using a TAP product for about 6yrs but I'd rather support Brownells.

It's a simple thing, I WANT TO WEIGH THE STUFF ;) ;) and whether or not it's logical isn't anyone's business. A lot that I do ain't normal.

Nobody noticed this yet?

LOL

al
 
I have used epoxies and the like for many years with the government....One thing I've learned is that in order to get "as advertised" perfoemance...wait...here it comes...follow the directions. If it calls for both surfaces to be wiped down thoroughly with a certain PH chemical, do it, if it says to mix by volume rather than weight, do it. Not really that difficult.
Mark
 
Al,
You could do it by weight IF you find out what the weights of the two materials at the volumes required by the instructions. Then you can use weights instead of volumes.

Being lazy and figuring the people who wrote the instructions know more than I do I just submit and follow the instructions. Sometimes laziness saves headaches.
 
al,

Some of us even shake spray paint the full 2 minutes after the ball rattles to ensure proper coating and color . Just crazy aint it .. lol
Andy B
 
Larry Elliott said:
Al,
You could do it by weight IF you find out what the weights of the two materials at the volumes required by the instructions. Then you can use weights instead of volumes.

Being lazy and figuring the people who wrote the instructions know more than I do I just submit and follow the instructions. Sometimes laziness saves headaches.
Click to expand...

OK, so here's what I did before posting.....

I dumped hardener into a liddle cuppy thingy and weighed it. Then I added epox and weighed it.

The two components seemed to weigh the same within parameters available.

So I MADE two little cups, weighed them and trimmed them until they were equal weight. Now I accurately and filled one with 'glas and one with hardener.

One was 28.16gr and one was 28.44

I not only follow instructions, I try to understand them.

al
 
alinwa said:
OK, so here's what I did before posting.....

I dumped hardener into a liddle cuppy thingy and weighed it. Then I added epox and weighed it.

The two components seemed to weigh the same within parameters available.

So I MADE two little cups, weighed them and trimmed them until they were equal weight. Now I accurately and filled one with 'glas and one with hardener.

One was 28.16gr and one was 28.44

I not only follow instructions, I try to understand them.

al
Click to expand...

If the equal weight cups were accurately filled with glass and hardener... the 4 to 1 by volume...

I believe you will have to subtract the weight of the cups to get an accurate weight ratio.
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
If the equal weight cups were accurately filled with glass and hardener... the 4 to 1 by volume...

I believe you will have to subtract the weight of the cups to get an accurate weight ratio.
Click to expand...

Yes.

This is the beauty of having good electronical scales right there. One bump and they tare out...... squirt-squiirrt ...... done

al
 
Al,
It sounds to me like you have gotten good results with your method and obviously have the means to weigh out the portions. You have knowledge enough to understand the measurements and ratio. I think due to the fact most do not have accurate enough ways to measure by weight, The ability to obtain those results you have would not be reccomended by Brownells or the manufacturer. Simple easy to follow instructions sells more product. I know I would not have ever used or keep a box of it on hand at all if precise measurment by weight were needed to mix properly. I just dont have a way to do that, or see it affordable for only that purpose to buy what is needed in hopes I dont spill the mix all over and expensive scale. This "might" be the reason for their response to your initial qestion. Not that it wouldnt work, you've proven that, Just that its not necessary to obtain the same reults.
Andy B
 
No Andy, I haven't "proven" anything. That's why I'm asking the question.....

In my limited experience the proof of whether or not an epoxy bond holds involves failure. If I was using the epoxy mix just to fill a void or make weight or to make molds for casting small parts I'd say "it works fer sure," but I'm not. I'm using it to affix critical parts into place. If a bedding pillar or a scope base shoots loose in the field I'll have experienced failure.

too late


al
 
Al,
I do apologize for not understanding what your intent is. I read your post above refering to the Allthread and pillars. ?? Figured you knew the workings of it from that experience and were trying to improve on it some how by measuring the weight. I have a hard time deciding to post sometimes as I may not get the intentions of how to reply. I'm sorry for being sarcastic at first. With Acraglass, I have used enough of this product to say preperation of the surfaces is crital to the strength of the finished product. Adding fiberglass insulation, nylon strands or wood dust also allows it to have more aplications. Any place you can under cut or drill a small hole (as you already noted) to allow a mechanical bond is the best way to apply it and have it stay put. Surfaces have to be ground/sanded, cleaned , degreased and at a steady temperature to work very well. Any failures I have ever had with it have all been from improper preping of the surfaces. That was when first starting out with it. No failures since. (yet) . It will do what it claims to if preperation to surfaces are good.. I have 1 action fully retained by Acraglass and 1 trigger guard screw, no problems yet. (knocking on wood) . I also have bedded several wooden and synthetic stocks with it, some synthetic stock flex ALOT in the pistol grip area, this has been an issue if not gluing in a rod from above the trigger area back to the rear of the stock for rigidity. The vibration and movement at the tang area will eventualy split the Acraglass. I've Glued / shimmed scope mounts, repaired plastic brackets for Automotive lights and dash bracing, repaired door trim panels, console lid hinge repairs, bumper covers, and a Warn winch housing, used it to alter internal cumbustion area of a 2 stroke weedeater engine for a remote controlled Boat, it goes over 80+ mph by the way, pillar bedded and glued in actions to rifles, repaired wooden stocks, my mother inlaws lazy chair recliner handle, Acraglass has done it all. Sits right next to my Duct Tape. I think as far as scope bases, its a little runny, JB weld works better for that. Acraglass release agent also works for JB weld. I would be more worried about dropping my rifle in the field and bending the scope than if a pillar were going to shoot loose due to an Acraglass failure. Just a few of my Acraglass moments I can remember.
my opinion , It will work just fine and hold up well.
Andy B
 
alinwa said:
OK, so here's what I did before posting.....

I dumped hardener into a liddle cuppy thingy and weighed it. Then I added epox and weighed it.

The two components seemed to weigh the same within parameters available.

So I MADE two little cups, weighed them and trimmed them until they were equal weight. Now I accurately and filled one with 'glas and one with hardener.

One was 28.16gr and one was 28.44

I not only follow instructions, I try to understand them.

al
Click to expand...

And the poor call center girls you were talking to don't even understand the chemicals they use to get their "blond" hair. That is why I said if you do the "experimental" testing, Go For IT! Epoxies are a very finicky animal. And just down the street from Brownells is one of the best and oldest epoxy formulators in the business, SIG Mfg. I would even bet even money SIG makes the Acra-Glas for them.
 
David Halblom said:
...just down the street from Brownells is one of the best and oldest epoxy formulators in the business, SIG Mfg. I would even bet even money SIG makes the Acra-Glass for them.
Click to expand...

Sig Manufacturing Company, Inc. 1951-2010

I bet they do make it for Brownell's.
 
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David Halblom said:
And the poor call center girls you were talking to don't even understand the chemicals they use to get their "blond" hair. That is why I said if you do the "experimental" testing, Go For IT! Epoxies are a very finicky animal. And just down the street from Brownells is one of the best and oldest epoxy formulators in the business, SIG Mfg. I would even bet even money SIG makes the Acra-Glas for them.
Click to expand...

Actually the call center girls were dears...... it's the "techs" who blew me off. One of the girls actually called me back a full day later full of apologies. She went out on a limb for me and got it cut out from under her. She was told to "just drop it!"

I think I will call SIG.... as has been noted, epoxies is tricky critters.

al
 
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