A friend and I went halves on a bore scope. I am working toward getting his rifles ready for an elk trip, as a few weeks ago it quite shooting. Its a Sako 85 SS hunter in 300 win mag. I highly suspected it needed a good cleaning, and Berreta USA said to also check action screw torque. It came back alive after the bore snake was sent to the locker and real cleaning tools and chemicals were used. The bore scope arrived Friday and I looked at it and it looked clean except in the middle of the barrel and on the grooves that were on the top of the barrel. Is this because gravity is keeping my copper solution on the bottom of the bore and I need to turn the gun over? Thanks for your help! Mark
bore scope ???
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D. E. Laneer
Guest
How are you putting the chemicals in, patch on a rod.
I put mine in with a glass eye dropper while holding the rifle vertical. It wastes some chemical but the chemical is
not weakened by reacting with a brass jag.
Perhaps the area that is fouled is a rougher section in the barrel that needs more vigorous cleaning or a longer soak
with the chemicals.
I have spent weeks soaking and cleaning hunting rifles with factory barrels that got the traditional season end cleaning
that took all of 15 minutes with 3 to 5 passes through the bore with a bore snake or three piece aluminum cleaning rod.
When cleaning patience is your friend.
I put mine in with a glass eye dropper while holding the rifle vertical. It wastes some chemical but the chemical is
not weakened by reacting with a brass jag.
Perhaps the area that is fouled is a rougher section in the barrel that needs more vigorous cleaning or a longer soak
with the chemicals.
I have spent weeks soaking and cleaning hunting rifles with factory barrels that got the traditional season end cleaning
that took all of 15 minutes with 3 to 5 passes through the bore with a bore snake or three piece aluminum cleaning rod.
When cleaning patience is your friend.
Dusty Stevens
Hollow Point Dispenser
Try some butchs. Leave those gimmicks on the shelf. Let it soak then check it. May need some iosso or red jb. Give the boresnake to one of those guys at the range with the straight leg cop bdu pants on and combat boots shooting off a bipod
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Now thats funny Dusty. I belong to two local ranges and shoot at them sometimes, sometimes because most of the shooters at the rifle ranges anymore are dressed like SWAT team members or wannabe SF Insertion guys. They are usually shooting at paper plates at 25 yards, if they have targets at all. Its almost scary to even be behind hem on the firing line. I just hope that when this ship hits that they are in the next valley but shooting in the same direction I am!!
As to rifle bore cleaning, competition or hunting;
2-3 WET soaked patches, soaked with at least Hoppes #9 but better, Butches, Shooters Choice or the like.
Let set for some time, even overnight if the product you are using says its ok. Good bore cleaner solvents will not harm your barrel.
Brush several strokes with a good quality bronze brush of the proper size for that caliber.
Patch out with several dry patches,, then repeat the above if necessary. Sometimes several times.
I stopped by a local gun shop recently and they had a special on a used 30-06 Remington 742BDL. Since I had a few 742's I bought it. Took it home and, with a borescope, looked in the barrel...that thing had NEVER been cleaned nor lubed in the action part.
Oh, if you are cleaning a bolt action from the breach use a good bore guide. Those semi's like the 742's, you must clean from the muzzle so be careful as to how you handle the cleaning rods.
Bore snakes?? In the grass where snakes belong!
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Joe Entrekin
New member
Cleaning
I have been using Bore Tech C4 lately with excellent results; their other product, "Eliminator" is also a good cleaner. The C4 is formulated more for carbon/powder residue. After the liquids, use JB or Iosso as was said, then clean at reasonable intervals & it will be a lot easier. You have the best cleaning tool ever in the borescope, so use it to find what works best for you.
I have been using Bore Tech C4 lately with excellent results; their other product, "Eliminator" is also a good cleaner. The C4 is formulated more for carbon/powder residue. After the liquids, use JB or Iosso as was said, then clean at reasonable intervals & it will be a lot easier. You have the best cleaning tool ever in the borescope, so use it to find what works best for you.
vtmarmot
P Magoon, Livin' Free NH
At the risk of sounding like a stuck record.......
My bore scope says that Wipeout Foam takes everything out of all my bores. These range from fine benchrest barrels to AR's to hunting rifles to vintage military stuff. Real foulers need a patch with Accelerator before the foam. No bad smells and little mess (once you learn how to use it). At the range I use Accelerator and Patch-out. The bonus is that I can go do some reloading or watch a game while the stuff does it's work.
My bore scope says that Wipeout Foam takes everything out of all my bores. These range from fine benchrest barrels to AR's to hunting rifles to vintage military stuff. Real foulers need a patch with Accelerator before the foam. No bad smells and little mess (once you learn how to use it). At the range I use Accelerator and Patch-out. The bonus is that I can go do some reloading or watch a game while the stuff does it's work.
Joe Entrekin
New member
Would agree that the Wipe Out products are good, too, used them for the past 3 years or so until I tried the Bore Tech C4 which seemed to work a bit quicker with same final results. Cleaning technique is same/similar for both products. Choice of product probably depends on what type cleaning issue is most important - copper or powder fouling/carbon. Neat that we have so many great products to choose from these days.
mwezell
Mike Ezell
Like Joe, I've had very good results from Patch Out and Eliminator..both very effective copper cleaners. IMO, they both leave a little to be desired on carbon/powder residue. For that, I start with the tried and true Ed's Red, as I'm yet to find anything that's better for carbon/powder.
My routine is to start with 1 wet patch, then 6-8 strokes with a wet brush..soaked in Ed's Red. I follow that up with a little time to soak and a couple more wet patches...then dry patch until the patches come out clean and dry..Usually 3-4.
I then put the Wipe Out Accelerator on a single patch, wetting the bore with it, followed by 2 wet patches of Patch Out...Let it soak for a few minutes and run another wet patch through. I read this patch for copper. If it looks good, I dry patch it out and I'm done. This is usually all that's needed on BR quality barrels. On lesser barrels or barrels that tend to copper foul, a repeat of the copper cleaning routine may be necessary. With good maintenance cleaning, this routine has worked well for me.
I'm a believer in some of the new solvents for copper...others are snake oil. I'm mot aware of any carbon cleaners that will magically melt away burnt, hard carbon without scrubbing or agitation with a brush, either.
That just my 2 cents and what I've found to work for me...YMMV.--Mike
My routine is to start with 1 wet patch, then 6-8 strokes with a wet brush..soaked in Ed's Red. I follow that up with a little time to soak and a couple more wet patches...then dry patch until the patches come out clean and dry..Usually 3-4.
I then put the Wipe Out Accelerator on a single patch, wetting the bore with it, followed by 2 wet patches of Patch Out...Let it soak for a few minutes and run another wet patch through. I read this patch for copper. If it looks good, I dry patch it out and I'm done. This is usually all that's needed on BR quality barrels. On lesser barrels or barrels that tend to copper foul, a repeat of the copper cleaning routine may be necessary. With good maintenance cleaning, this routine has worked well for me.
I'm a believer in some of the new solvents for copper...others are snake oil. I'm mot aware of any carbon cleaners that will magically melt away burnt, hard carbon without scrubbing or agitation with a brush, either.
That just my 2 cents and what I've found to work for me...YMMV.--Mike
Joe Entrekin
New member
Hey Mike, try the Bore Tech C4 & let me know what you think, anybody else, too. One other item that is important to cleaning a barrel is your rods. I started using Ivy one-piece SS rods several years ago and really love them. Not only are they great cleaning rods made to your custom specs, but the SS doesn't give you any false readings on the copper, either.
mwezell
Mike Ezell
Been aiming to, Joe. I've just been so happy with my regimen that it's not been high on my to do list yet...and right now, I'm in good shape on bore cleaner. I may give it a try when I re-order, though. There is certainly a lot of snake oil out there, but there are also some very good products that do as they claim. The KG12 works very well, too. I just prefer the way copper shows up with other cleaners as blue or green. The KG12 shows copper as brownish. Easy to confuse with carbon etc.
I feel like a good fitting bore guide is imperative. It should be snug on the rod ideally, and IMHO.
Joe Entrekin
New member
+1 on the rod guides. I have Mike Lucas make mine for the Ivy rod specific size.
G
gunner69
Guest
Crown Cradle - Bore Guide for the Muzzle Crown End of the Barrel
I never really understood why you would use a bore guide on the chamber end but not on the muzzle crown end. A jag and rod will drag and strike the muzzle crown area hundreds if not thousands of times cleaning during the life of a barrel. I created a simple bore guide for the muzzle crown end and it works really well. We have numerous sizes. There are some good videos on the site too which demonstrate the issue and how the Crown Cradle works. Hope this helps and maybe is seen as a solution or least as extra insurance/precaution for the precision marksman.
http://crowncradle.bigcartel.com/
I never really understood why you would use a bore guide on the chamber end but not on the muzzle crown end. A jag and rod will drag and strike the muzzle crown area hundreds if not thousands of times cleaning during the life of a barrel. I created a simple bore guide for the muzzle crown end and it works really well. We have numerous sizes. There are some good videos on the site too which demonstrate the issue and how the Crown Cradle works. Hope this helps and maybe is seen as a solution or least as extra insurance/precaution for the precision marksman.
http://crowncradle.bigcartel.com/
Attachments
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
A properly sized jag will not contact the muzzle if used correctly. i.e. Use a 22 cal jag in a 6mm bore or a 17 cal jag in a 22 bore and stop the rod immediately when it exits the bore.
A brush will eventually cause some damage. That is why we recrown every 300 rounds or so.
Joe, I have several custom bore guides made by Mike Lucas. Is he still making guides? I haven't seen him at a group shoot in 2-3 years.
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A brush will eventually cause some damage. That is why we recrown every 300 rounds or so.
Joe, I have several custom bore guides made by Mike Lucas. Is he still making guides? I haven't seen him at a group shoot in 2-3 years.
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Hunter
Chasin' the Sunset
Good grief, something else I don't do; no wonder I'm a bottom-of-the-list shooter.
