Berger Bullets Moly Process

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Eric Stecker

New member
This year we discontinued moly coating several bullets in our line. This was due to low sales (of the moly version) and the high cost associated with moly coating small quantities. We have to pay an employee to moly coat the bullets plus a laundry list of other overhead costs.

The cost to moly coat bullets yourself is very low. To that end we are encouraging shooters to moly coat their own bullets. This has generated many inquiries about our moly coating process.

I have created detailed instructions on how we moly coat Berger Bullets. They are attached for those interested in knowing.

I will not engage in a debate over moly vs. non-moly at this time. I am extremely busy these days at can't spend as much time on the forums as I'd like. We believe moly coating is good for high shot count situations. However, this post is meant for those who are already using moly and is not an attempt to convert anyone to using moly.

Regards,
Eric
 

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Eric,

You friggin' ROCK man!!! You folks at Berger absolutely go the extra mile, GOOD On Ya's!!


This is sooo funny to me.......I'm right now, as we speak, down in my reloading room deciding what to do with odd lots of Moly'd Bergers. I've got like 550 105's and 300 115's.

I think I'm gonna' just shoot 'em in my current barrel until they're gone and switch back :) I don't know if I've actually got the cojone's to switch back and forth during shooting season :D although I'd like to try some of this lot head-to-head with my others........nekkid-VS-moly.


I'll probably still print your post just for save-info.



LOL


al
 
Eric Stecker said:
This year we discontinued moly coating several bullets in our line. This was due to low sales (of the moly version) and the high cost associated with moly coating small quantities. We have to pay an employee to moly coat the bullets plus a laundry list of other overhead costs.

The cost to moly coat bullets yourself is very low. To that end we are encouraging shooters to moly coat their own bullets. This has generated many inquiries about our moly coating process.

I have created detailed instructions on how we moly coat Berger Bullets. They are attached for those interested in knowing.

I will not engage in a debate over moly vs. non-moly at this time. I am extremely busy these days at can't spend as much time on the forums as I'd like. We believe moly coating is good for high shot count situations. However, this post is meant for those who are already using moly and is not an attempt to convert anyone to using moly.

Regards,
Eric
Click to expand...

That process will work but the washing solvents are too nasty for your health. Lacquer thinner and acetone are bad for your lungs.
" Shellite " pure liquid hydrocarbon is nicer to use and evaporates without leaving any residue at all.
I don't agree with coating bullets without steel balls to cushion the bullet meplats. I have tried it and it does damage to fine meplats period.
Its ok for PP hunting bullets though. I just prefer to coat all with steel balls It's simpler.
 
moly

I have stopped using Moly bullets but I still have some. What is the best
way to get the moly off them
Thank You Don
 
Oh Boy!

Man, I am happy to hear some folks are still using moly coated bullets.

I have a 7BR with over 3500 moly bullets down the tube and it is still shooting great.

Justin, we need to bore scope this barrel just for the fun of it.

BTW I do not use wax.

I think wax becomes a problem.

Never did believe Moly was a subsitute for cleaning the bore.

I clean the bore with Butches and also use a bore brush.
 
steel shot...

I have found that steel shot peens the bullet, and can damage the tips...so I have been using plastic beads that you can get at a hobby shop. They use them for stuffing toys and such... and its quieter too!! good shooting, Gary PS been moly-coating my bullets since Neco first came out with a kit...
 
Since we're on the subject of moly

I also bought the kit when Neco first came out with it and still have a small portion of the first jar of moly that came with it. I don't use the wax either because I read, way back when, that the wax caused a moly build up and never opened the container.
I did have one Remington .243 factory barrel with 1:9 that got a moly build up about half way down the barrel. Probably moly AND carbon but I didn't have a borescope back then so I can only guess.
My Question to you guys that have been shooting moly for a while: how often are you cleaning and are you removing all of the moly/carbon when you do clean.
Are you prepping the barrel with a moly paste or spray after doing a through cleaning?
OK, I will shut up now.

Thanks.
Larry
 
Cleaning bullets prior to moly impact plating.

I clean with household ammonia.......very cheap stuff.

Put bullets in wire strainer.......dip/swish in ammonia for 60 seconds. Hot water rinse 2 minutes. Hot hairdryer(bullets in old butter tub) 3 minutes.

Clean bullets..............no more contaminated moly impact tumbler.

I've been molying since NECO invented it.

Hope this helps.....

Kevin
 
Cleaning procedure

I have shot both moly and boron nitride coated bullets. Like the BN better, seems slicker and less dirty. I am sure it prolongs the life of a barrel. I only shoot short range BR, 6ppc. How long does one go before cleaning? After cleaning it seems to me that it takes about 10 shots for the barrel to settle down, I suppose to get the coating back on the barrel. I typically do not shoot over about 15-20 shots before carbon build up starts to become a problem. I have quit using coated bullets in matches because of my problems with how to clean the barrel. Suggestions appreciated..........Donald
 
Back when I was into HIGH POWER I found that after cleaning my .223 Bushmaster that it would take 8 to 9 shots for my 100 yard groups to go from 3/4" down to 1/2" using moly coated bullets. Then a friend of mine that worked on machinery gave me a spray can of industrial moly. I found that after I cleaned the barrel after a match (80 rounds) if I rolled a 30 cal. patch on a long jag and sprayed it with the moly then pushed through the barrel 2 times it only took 2 shots to get back to shooting 1/2" groups. So after the match I would go over to the other range at the same club and clean then swab the barrel with the moly and shoot it 3 (one extra) times and was ready for the next weeks competition.

I coat my own bullets in a soft plastic vitamin container. I put a tea spoon of moly and the bullets (100) in it and then put the container in my Dillon vibrating case cleaner for about one hour. The bullets pean each other with the moly. I have put a 12x magnifier (loop) on the coated bullets and have never found a pean mark from the bullets hitting each other. I do all this outside. After one hour while wearing surgical gloves I carefully open the bottle and dump the contence into an old sock. Then I shake the sock to get some of the moly off. Then I dump them onto a cloth and roll them around, then I put them on paper towels and roll them around again and by this time you are finished.

gt40

PS: I do this outside because the first time I did it in my kitchen. :eek::eek::eek: Almost got divorced. After trying many different things to get it off our new linoleum floor my wife came over with a bottle of "Goof Off" and saved our mariage. :D
 
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Donald, you might try...........

cleaning with MPro7 Oil. I've noticed that the BN combines easily & nicely w/this oil, and it does a super job of slicking the bore. Also, the clean-up time seems quicker. You may like it.
 
Kevin Gullette said:
I clean with household ammonia.......very cheap stuff.

Put bullets in wire strainer.......dip/swish in ammonia for 60 seconds. Hot water rinse 2 minutes. Hot hairdryer(bullets in old butter tub) 3 minutes.

Clean bullets..............no more contaminated moly impact tumbler.

I've been molying since NECO invented it.

Hope this helps.....

Kevin
Click to expand...

The only problem with ammonia is it damages brass by hardening it. In a bullet that is washed once and then thoroughly rinsed it may not be all that bad but don't clean cases with ammonia . A weak acid is way better on brass than ammonmia as it will not speed up stress corrosion like ammonia will. This is why ammonia works as a bore solvent it eats copper.
Cartridge brass is copper and zinc and so is the bullet jacket in different ammounts.
 
I've always done well with those solvents that panel shops use to dewax panels that aren't being fully resprayed. They go under the name of Prep Solve or Prep Clean hereabouts.

(I hope that they aren't just repackaged shellite, John)
 
Over the years I read a lot about people washing them or cleaning with chemicals. I just bought an extra bowl and simply tumble them in corncob media for a few minutes. I figure if it makes it shine it must be removing anything on the surface and it seems to work fine. I use a seperate bowl with media to clean the excess moly off when I am finished and it works great too.

Hope that helps someone!:)
 
cspit said:
I have stopped using Moly bullets but I still have some. What is the best
way to get the moly off them
Thank You Don
Click to expand...


Berger puts that stuff on really well. I've tried to strip moly from a bunch of Berger 17's using everything in the shop. Lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner.....nothing would even touch it. Dawn liquid is supposed to work but soaking for a week had practically no effect. Haven't yet tried plain ol' bore cleaner. Called Berger and was told there's really no way to remove their moly. Also haven't yet tried several hours in the case tumbler but maybe that'll do something.
 
Ackman said:
Berger puts that stuff on really well. I've tried to strip moly from a bunch of Berger 17's using everything in the shop. Lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner.....nothing would even touch it. Dawn liquid is supposed to work but soaking for a week had practically no effect. Haven't yet tried plain ol' bore cleaner. Called Berger and was told there's really no way to remove their moly. Also haven't yet tried several hours in the case tumbler but maybe that'll do something.
Click to expand...

Then its not the process they talk about.
 
Ackman said:
Berger puts that stuff on really well. I've tried to strip moly from a bunch of Berger 17's using everything in the shop. Lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner.....nothing would even touch it. Dawn liquid is supposed to work but soaking for a week had practically no effect. Haven't yet tried plain ol' bore cleaner. Called Berger and was told there's really no way to remove their moly. Also haven't yet tried several hours in the case tumbler but maybe that'll do something.
Click to expand...

80 grit sandpaper? You can get it at lowes in the drywall section. :D

Joe
 
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