Annealing Brass

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Fla mac

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Annealing People,
I did my first setup of my homemade annealing machine. It is made like a bernzomatic, only I use one torch (Goss plumber’s torch) and my machine rotates the case twice while in the flame. I’m using Tempilaq (750°on the inside, 450ºon the outside). I have the flame set so the 750º indicator liquefies as the case is moving out of the flame. The 450º liquefies about ¼ “ down from the shoulder of the case. The only thing is that that case doesn"t have a blue color after it cool down, but I know the neck is getting to 750º. Has anyone had this happen with their brass annealing.
john
 
I have always put my brass in a tray with water 1/2 way up the case to protect the head and web area because I read that the heat reaching the web and head would ruin the case. How do you deal with this concern, and is the corncern about heat reaching the case head and web overblown?
 
John

Isn't the Woodchuck Den out of business? I know that Small Caliber News magazine is defunct; they ceased production and left subscribers with remaining issues out in the cold. I had ordered from Todd K. on many occasions, but haven't received any mailings since about the time the magazine folded.
 
I have always put my brass in a tray with water 1/2 way up the case to protect the head and web area because I read that the heat reaching the web and head would ruin the case. How do you deal with this concern, and is the corncern about heat reaching the case head and web overblown?

The brass air-cools to well below annealing temperature fairly quickly after leaving the flame. The case head never even gets close to worrisome temperatures. Notice how the OP mentioned that the 450F stuff only melted about 1/4" down from the shoulder -- the case head probably barely reaches 300F. Since annealing takes place closer to 800F... the whole water thing is kind of a farce, IMO. It certainly doesn't hurt anything, but I haven't seen any evidence of it ever being proven necessary either.
 
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