6.5 Swede and accuracy - logical next steps

M

merbeau

New member
Test Rifle: Earlier this year I completed building a 6.5x55 Swede using a Rem 700 LA with a new PPG stainless bolt and trigger guard assembly. The receiver is connected to a Hart match barrel heavy varmint contour 27 inches long, twist of 1:8 and a recessed crown. The unit is housed in a Bobby Hart LRT stock for heavy contour barrels with aluminum block. I am using Warne steel two piece scope base with Warne rings that hold a Bausch & Lomb 6x24 target scope. I plan to use the rifle in local 600 yard or less matches.

Testing: I am using Nosler brass, Cutting Edge 120 grain MTH bullets, Winchester large rifle primers, and IMR 7828ssc. IMR 4831, IMR 4350, Alliant RL 22, Vihtahouri N160 and Hodgdon Hybrid 100V powders. I started 0.005 off the lands. Testing began this fall and on the first day of testing at 100 yards with a Bald Eagle rest and leaf back rest 7828 produced a group of 1.0 inch and the rest were all 1.5 inches or greater. Could not get back to the range until late this fall and straddled the 7828 load and results were worse - on the order of 1.5 inches. Retested all the other powders same result. I then tried seating the bullet deeper, based on Cutting Edge recommendation and matching some 120 grain Prvi Partizan match ammunition COAL. No change. Went to my log and basically my testing was in non windy conditions, clear skies, similar humidity, barometric pressure and same elevation, Only difference was first test it was 80 degrees and the rest were in the 45 to 55 range.

Questions: Should (as a couple fo guys at the range suggested) change primers. I have access to CCI BR in my locality and of course Winchester. Or do I try another bullet. I have 7 rounds of Cutting Edge bullets left and could try those with the 7828 load and see what happens Other suggestions?

Thanks
Robert
 
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I would switch bullets. I looked up your current bullets. They may have particular requirements that lead core bullets do not share. I have seen more than one instance where a shooter has become convinced that he wants to use a particular component, and for that reason fails to hear his rifle's clear statement that it does not like it. Listen to your rifle, and give it what it prefers.
 
6.5 swede

Nothing wrong with that caliber..... many people use it out to 1000 yds....I now own 3 rifles chambered in it.... they shoot good... with your situation,and components used that gun should shoot 3/8"......First I would make a call to Hart and explain your situation.... but before I sent the barrel back to them I would...I would find some one with a bore scope to check the barrel........ I would also slug the bore....a chamber cast would also help.......
I always shoot sierra 142 mks....???.. with various powders some of which you named... and use lapua or win.brass...not that that should make a difference....
good luck and keep us posted on what you learn....
bill
 
139/140/142 bullets. sierra/lapua/berger
lapua brass...skip the nosler.
from my expereince with a 300wsm..the brass is not "match" at all
 
Swede Lapua brass doesn't always work in a Remington. Bigger diameter and a very narrow extraction groove.
 
Thanks for the suiggestions

Thanks to all that replied. There are suggestions that range from fairly drastic to simple. I believe it would be best to alternate variables one at a time so as not to confuse the issue. I should mention that the PPG bolt was cut for an M16 extractor to accommodate larger rimmed brass such as Norma, etc. I had really good results with Cutting Edge bullets in a 243, 300 and 338 win mag and that is the reason I decided to go with their bullet in the 6.5 Swede.

Since I have few bullets left I think it would be best to try a different primer first, and if that does not work, move to a different bullet, then changing brass. The last action would be to send the action back to Hart. Staying with 7828 that produced the initial good result and then varying powder if necessary.

Probably will not get to the range until February and will try to post results.

Thanks again for the help.

Robert
 
One of the realities of living in California is having to deal with lead free bullets for hunting. A friend who builds rifles, and who is hip deep in slugging bores, tells me that because bullets that are made of solid material do not slug up and are not easily swaged down, that having a good match between groove and bullet diameters is much more critical that with lead core bullets. For this reason a barrel that might perform very well with lead core bullets might give poor accuracy with a bullet like the one that the OP is trying to use. If the bore is too tight there can be fouling issues that would not have been an issue with lead core bullets. He has quite a bit of experience with this, and communicates his requirements to barrel makers when he orders barrels. That is the reason that I suggested trying a different bullet.
 
Barrel Replacement

alinwa said:
Ohh really, and lemme guess, it's "free" right?
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Alan.. You are correct..I have had 2 replaced by different mfgs.......usual cause is chatter or deformed land/lands..................OH........ and Alan.... in case you haven't followed the thread a bad barrel can contribute to "PIERCED PRIMERS"..
Have a good one..........
bill
 
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The problem could be anything from poor bedding to a bad scope.....to no wind flags. Take another rifle along and if it shoots OK, the problem is the rifle. I would first try a different scope, one that works well on another rifle, making sure the rings aren't moving. Next, re-bed the action or re-do whatever you have there. Try another trigger. Next to last, have a really good gunsmith try to fix it. Lastly, send the barrel back and tell them what you did.

Lastly, wasn't really the last thing to do. You can sell the rifle and start over at any time....which is what I'd do right now.
 
The late Bob forslund once told me, " If a BR rifle, with good bullets and any reasonable load, doesn't shoot reasonably well, there is something wrong with the effing rifle". Changing components isn't likely to turn a 1.5 moa rifle into the .4 moa rifle it should be. There is something wrong with the rifle. Might be the barrel, might be the scope or mounts but it is a basic mechanical flaw. Regards, Bill
 
While i have not shot his rifle, i have shot 6.5 swede, but never with a 120 gr bullet, never with his powder, or his brass.
I believe we have a pile of components that are not correct.
lapua brass
139/140/142 gr bullet
h4350 powder
is a known mix that works.

Bill Leeper said:
The late Bob forslund once told me, " If a BR rifle, with good bullets and any reasonable load, doesn't shoot reasonably well, there is something wrong with the effing rifle". Changing components isn't likely to turn a 1.5 moa rifle into the .4 moa rifle it should be. There is something wrong with the rifle. Might be the barrel, might be the scope or mounts but it is a basic mechanical flaw. Regards, Bill
Click to expand...
 
Just My 2 Cents

I realize I may be a little late here, but I just joined this website today. Regardless, a friend of mine just had a 6.5 Swede built that is comparable to yours. Its a custom built bench type gun. I have been lucky enough to shoot it a few times. He has had trouble tuning it in. However I shot it about 10 days ago and did rather well with it. With Lapua brass, 43 gr of H4350, and Nosler 140 HPBT's, I was able to shoot 5 shots into approx a half inch at 100 yds. I then shot a 5 shot group that was the same setup except it was 46 gr of H4350. The group size roughly doubled. So powder charge can make a significant difference.

With regards to Nosler brass I have used it in my 260 loads for informal matches and bench shooting. I have not conducted a controlled experiment to verify this observation, but in general I have found that I got as good if not better groups with Remington brass. Since Lapua now manufactures 260 brass I spend my money and buy it (it is actually cheaper per case than Nosler). I have been very satisfied with Lapua brass.

With my 260 I found that seating depth made a big difference in groups. Of course I realize this revelation is about as new as "it gets warmer after the sun comes up".

I assume that you are using a scope that has shot well on another rifle. When I first bought my 260 I had a new Leupold on it. I had some problems with the rifle not holding zero. I eventually figured out that the problem was the scope and not the rifle.

But I would definitely recommend H4350 powder and a match 140 bullet. If you can spend the money and get Lapua cases that much better.

Good luck with it. I know it is frustrating when a rifle that should shoot well shoots poorly, despite attention to detail and quality components.

Scott
 
While not exactly the same animal, I helped a good friend build a barrel block Rifle on 6.5x55 Ackley Improved. He shoots 4350 with 140 Berger VLD's.

His best accuracy is in the 2950-3000 FPS range. He can easily push it to 3050-3100 FPS, but accuracy goes out the window. It goes from being a 3/8 inch Rifle to being a 5/8 inch Rifle at 100 yards.

He has a confirmed 1100 yard Praire Dog hit with it, but he does concede it took 3 shots;)
 
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