30br or 30 IHMSA or 30x47 lapua

J

JRogers

Guest
I am trying to decide on which to build. The rifle will be used as a lightweight deer rifle for my nephew (who is recoil shy). I tried letting him shoot my 260 but he seems to flinch. I am thinking that a 6 to 6 1/2lb rifle would work. My question is which would be the best with 125 BT. I was thinking of rebarreling a T3 would the 22/250 mag work with the 30br?
 
The 30BR would be a dandy whitetail cartridge. A Nosler 125BTip over some H4198 @ 2850-2950 would make for some real bang-flops. The BR length case can have feeding issues in staggered mag. setups, though the increased diameter/length of the .30 cal. bullet can be a bit better for feeding when compared to a 22 or 6mm version. Again..depends on the action. I've got a 700 in 22BR that feed just fine after a little attention to the ejector plunger spring and follower.

Sounds like a nice project. -Al
 
The T3 has a single column magazine. With the 22/250 the overall length is 2.35in . What is the overall length of a 30br with a 125 BT loaded with the base of the bullet at the base of neck?
 
With a 125 BTip at the neck/shoulder junction, a 30BR measures approx. 2.300 in overall length. The Nosler 125 BTips I have on hand measure 1.060 long. A barrel twisted 1:14 would be slick for a hunting rig....you'd have extra rotational speed for the 125 BTips and be able to stabilize bullets in the 1.150 length range (150's, etc.) should you ever want to try something a bit heavier/longer.

I like the T3's single column magazine and the couple of T3's I've worked on have been pretty darn accurate for basically out of the box rifles.

Probably the only area you need to give serious thought to is the neck issue....when expanded to .30, there's a pronounced 'lump' at the bottom of the case neck on the 6BR brass. This is the old shoulder that's now become neck. It needs to be taken care of by neck turning. I'd caution against trying a 'no neck turn' reamer specd' off the o.d. of the 'lump' as your chamber neck diameter...this will guarantee poor results before the first case is ever fired.

Here's a link to some more info about the case:

http://www.6mmbr.com/30BR.html

Go with a standard .330 neck 'Robinett' reamer and prep the case necks per normal and you'll avoid any issues. For dies, the Redding Type S full length bushing die and a Wilson non-stainless, non-micrometer seating die is all you need for a great setup. Harrels also makes fine full length bushing dies for the 30BR...you can send a couple of fired cases to them and they'll send a die that matches best. In the case of a hunting rifle where feeding is a big concern, I'd ask for some generous sizing if going that route..or just order one of their 30BR #3 dies right from the start. Be aware that the Harrels dies don't size the full length of the neck and leave a bit of the bottom of the case neck in 'as fired' diameter. For a hunting rig, the Redding will size the entire neck length...something to consider when thinking about chambering a round in a hunting situation.

I'd suggest that a loaded round measure no more than .327 across the neck with a seated bullet. Snag a few Redding regular steel neck bushings in .324, .323 and .322 as the 30BR's love neck tension...another benefit in a hunting rig when feeding from a magazine.

Grab a pound of H4198 Extreme, one of Benchmark, some Federal standard 205's or Winchester WSR primers and you're set.

One other thing...if you're not doing the barrel work yourself, you may want to consider using a 'smith that has a proven 'no throat' 30BR reamer. That way, he can throat the barrel for exactly where you want the base of the bullet to be in the case neck. My cipherin' shows that with the ogive profile/length of the 125BTip at the base of the neck, you're going to be close to the zero freebore range anyway. Picking the base up about .050 may be something to consider and chat with your 'smith about. If he doesn't grasp the concept and connect the dots, you need someone else to do this. ;)

Just how I'd do it.......
 
Back
Top