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Im trying to get set up to do single point neck turning in my lathe. Using HSS tool on drill rod to make a mandrel . "Crap finish". Tool set on center. 700rpm, slow feed. The finish is almost fuzzy . I turned within .001 of finish and used 600 grit paper to finish to diameter and end up .002...

Thank you

First I cannot thank you enough for your contribution of knowledge that you have spent typing in here. Ive scoured over the old forums on chambering and have spent more time than ide like to admit studying your excellent thread on chambering.(Im a Mechanic by trade and could never imagine...

Thank You !

I read the Jackie Barreling thread. I see he uses a live center on the back of the reamer and a wrench on the reamer. Is the lathe running at a low RPM or is he simply turning it by hand ? Thanks Adam

I though the same until recently . I replaced a cylinder head on a 2007 Chrysler and the torque to yield bolts were re-usable if they did not show signs of stretching. (visual check with a straight edge) Per Chrysler. I would not apply this across the board though as the metal composition...

THANK YOU! Exactly the club I had in Mind (Or lack there of as I had the info years ago)

Anyone ? Thanks Adam

Thanks everyone! Have a great Holiday!

Thanks for the details Jackie and everyone that responded. With the un-known factor it sounds like I should just get my feet wet now and chop off the chamber and start fresh the barrel is at 22.5 " total length now. Its a LV class rifle.

I purchased the rifle used and I have never fired it. I purchased new brass and wanted to start with a .269 neck and have the ability to set it back as needed in the future. I do not have a bore scope to really determine anything definitive as to condition. This is also a learning...

My experience doing machining work is limited, I hope to get some input on my approach to what I plan to do. I have a 6ppc .262 neck barrel I wish to set back and go to .269 neck. (I purchased a finish reamer and go gauge) 1. Make cat heads for lathe headstock and a collar for the threaded...

this link may help some. The CZ receiver looks like a interesting prospect to build on. http://www.benchrest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=409537

So I gather the bottom line is if I cannot wait. It does not matter if I go with the Varmint or American as either one needs work done for a rear receiver mounting lug (revised or added). I think the 453 varmint may be the wise choice due to the trigger. Kinda steep $120 extra but the 453 is...

As far as accuracy between the heavy barrel and standard is it true its the same, and just a personal preference for the extra weight ? Martin, thank you , I hope I did not come off as an ass in my posting. Adam

Im a little confused? Quote " the floating dovetail at the tang, and to me is the main reason accuracy is affected more on the american" Searching the internet it seams the complaints are of the Varmint version with the floating Dovetail in the Barrel and only 1 action screw mount...

I do not hunt just Target shoot. Informal.. prone, Sand bag rested ect. Not real sure I will use my Hart rest as I only have a crap table to shoot off. Any ways I plan on bedding ect to get it as accurate as I can. I understand the American has 2 action screws and the Varmint 1 Action and one...

Does anyone have the part number or specs of the Micro 100 miniature solid carbide boring bar used for 6ppc ? Thanks Adam

Im not a competitor but was wondering is a shooter at a disadvantage using H322 ? N133 seams to be the go to powder. I have had good results (to me) 2's under ideal conditions , non-match with H322. The charges were not at the upper end as most shoot with N133, and the brass even springs...

I have a RRA rifle set up for Service rifle with a Kreiger barrel, floated ect. A discipline I though I would pursue (never did) . Ended up replacing the upper and using it like a bench gun (standard stock/handguards). I was really happy with it getting a rare .250 (5) shot group but typical...