barrel clamping

i see some glue barrel to a heavy sleeve afair while others use bolts to clamp barrel to the sleeve.what is the better way if any ?also should you use a 22 inch long barrel or something longer?
 
I think the current trend with sleeves is to simply clamp them to the barrel via the block. I see no need to glue it to the barrel, but perhaps someone knows why that would be advantageous. As for barrel length, there's no set number. I cut mine at 23".

Railgun_1.jpg


1.45" straight in a delrin sleeve:

Railgun_3.jpg


-Lee
www.singleactions.com
 
i think the current trend with sleeves is to simply clamp them to the barrel via the block. I see no need to glue it to the barrel, but perhaps someone knows why that would be advantageous. As for barrel length, there's no set number. I cut mine at 23".

railgun_1.jpg


1.45" straight in a delrin sleeve:

railgun_3.jpg


-lee
www.singleactions.com
i put flashing on top and botom keeps direct ressure off barrel .
 
barrel clamp

what is the size of that clamp and what or how is the clamp held on the barrel.what is the material around the barrel that the clap uses.
 
I think the current trend with sleeves is to simply clamp them to the barrel via the block. I see no need to glue it to the barrel, but perhaps someone knows why that would be advantageous. As for barrel length, there's no set number. I cut mine at 23".

Railgun_1.jpg


1.45" straight in a delrin sleeve:

Railgun_3.jpg


-Lee
www.singleactions.com
I know this is an old thread, but just saw it. My Young rail gun is identical to yours same color with the integral block in the I beam. It may not shoot any better than the bolted on barrel block but it makes sense and would be a bear to make on a manual mill.
 
I know this is an old thread, but just saw it. My Young rail gun is identical to yours same color with the integral block in the I beam. It may not shoot any better than the bolted on barrel block but it makes sense and would be a bear to make on a manual mill.
Mike -

Howdy !

Barrel clamping method I used for my varmint/target rifle. “ Plumber’s Clamp “ plates doubled-up, carriage bolts, 1/4-20
Nylon insert lock nuts; torque plates co-opted from “U”-bolts. Extruded aluminum “I”-beam oriented as an “ H “.
5/4 composite deck board fore end, butt stock; and removable cheek locator strip.

Wichita WBR1375, 29” Broughton 6mm 1-8 in my “ DEEP 6 “ wildcat, Jewell 2oz;

Weaver T-36 XR w/ 2.5X “ booster “


With regards,
357Mag
 
Mike -
One last try to get a pic to attach….

Nope…. Did not work.

Sorry,
357Mag
I know this is an old thread, but just saw it. My Young rail gun is identical to yours same color with the integral block in the I beam. It may not shoot any better than the bolted on barrel block but it makes sense and would be a bear to make on a manual mill.
 
Back
Top